BBK SSI intake
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...bk-intake.html
Like ive said before and probably have to say again, next time you drive your car for a while AFTER it gets to operating temperature, pop the hood and see how long you can hold your hand on your plastic intake.
Dont bother PM'ing me the results as ive already tried it.
Hell, one could argue that the bbk and aluminum are better, because they are more boost and nitrous friendly.
The temperature gradient between the intake and the ambient air isn't enough to heat up jack $hit with an engine constantly refreshing the plenum/runners as fast as it does.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
One thing I just experienced and wanted to give you a heads up on though ...
Theres a metal plate attached to the underside of the manifold by 14 small allen head screws. I just found out tonight that 4 had worked out and were sitting on the valley pan, all but 2 of them were really loose. I would suggest some kind of sealer on those screws before you put the intake on. Trust me ... if enough of them come loose it will make a noise that will have you thinking your engine is eating itself alive. Sort of like a cross between a squeal and a lifter tick. Here is the piece I am talking about.
FAST intakes are pretty much the only composite performance intake that I can think of off the top of my head.
Not saying there is anything wrong with that, they make a great intake.
But take a look around at the race track and see what 99% of people are running. It may make some sort of MINIMAL difference in IAT's, but it is hardly something I would worry about on a 10-12 second car.
If I were to buy a FAST it would be because of it's great airflow characteristics, not because of the material it's made out of. In fact, I would rather have a FAST made out of aluminum. That way I wouldn't have to worry about ruining it because of a small nitrous backfire.
Last edited by DNKFXSTANG; Mar 12, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
It is funny everyone always hates on the BBK because of "heat soak" and it being "heavy", but no one ever rags on the METAL single plane style intakes with METAL elbows.
This being said, if I were to go from an ls1 intake and didnt have much money, id def. do a BBK intake. If I already had an ls6 intake Id just stay with it as I would not feel it would be worth the time/money to swap.
this book shows on a heat soaked motor the bbk ssi beats the fast 78... the bbk did 7 more hp and 4 ft tq more than the fast... half the price too...
I would love to see a dyno comparison of the edelbrock pro flo XT vs either a BBK SSI or a LS6 on the same motor. Best would be a cam only LS motor.
I am guessing the BBK SSI has longer intake runners so it will have quite a bit more low and mid range torque and the Edelbrock Pro Flo will suffer at low and midrange RPM's yet take over at higher RPM above 6000.
I am probably going to buy the BBK SSI for my LQ4 with turbo cam, stock 317 heads and S475 75 MM turbo going into my 74 camaro with turbo 400. I am looking for 1000 to 1200 fly wheel hp eventually after I put forged pistons and rods in my short block and crank up the boost to 20 lbs or so.
Anybody seen or have a dyno test sheet of the Edelbrock pro flo vs the LS6 or even the new Holley Sheet metal style intake vs a LS6??? The holley is the same production sheet metal type design style as the edelbrock pro flo XT so the power band characterstics will be very similar.
I dont want to rev my boosted motor much above 6500 so the BBK SSI looks like it will be strongest thru my powerband boosted on the street and at the track.
Hpbob1
The test engine was equipped with a Comp XR275HR cam, Accufab 80mm TB, LT Hooker Headers w/ collectors and no mufflers....


Pulled these from this thread.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347366
If you have a room that stays at a static temp, oh let's say 72 deg and you place several items in this room, block of wood, block of alumn, block of ABS plastic, block of copper, block of glass etc...whatever you want. There are a few numbers you can measure on each item.
Each of these items have a type of "insulation" property and a "conducting" property along with others, but we will talk about these 2. Materials that have a better conductivity will absorb energy at a faster rate. Energy=heat in this instance.
Lets say you take each of these items out of a 50deg room and place them into this room at 72deg at the same time and same fashion.... you will have a rise in temp in each item at different rates!! Whichever item has a better conductivity will inherit the ambient temp at a faster rate and the item that has the better insulation property will inherit the ambient temp at a slower rate. I.E I dont know the properties exactly but the list would probably go as follows from fastest to slowest.... copper, alumn, glass, plastic , wood etc...
EXPERIMENT: walk into this room and put your hand on each item...each item will feel a different temp because each item absorbs the heat out of your hand at a different rate even though they are all the same temp! You are in fact felling cold because now you are having a lack of heat in that part of your hand.
Now you know the rate at which these items "heat soak" or better put, absorb heat. Now once all of these items reach the ambient temp in the room at 72 deg and the room stays constant then they all will remain at that temp.
Now lets take this old saying about heat soak and look at it. If you have a drag car lets say N/A and you want to squeeze every once of power so you can beat your opponent then thats why you see guys icing down their intakes before the run including letting the car cool all the way down before a run. Now think back about the conductivity of alumn compared to plastic. The plastic in this case would be beneficial so it wont absorb a ton of heat very fast before you even run it down the track. Now all in all what intake makes the most power when everything is at a constant temp including the motor then that is about intake design etc... FAST is known for its great designs including BBK.
If its a street car and they both are within a HP gain you like when they are tested with consistency then buy the cheaper one or prettier one or whatever you find first. It dont matter unless you have a car you like to push to the burnout box! lol
Hope this helps...sorry it was long







