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Shell Rotella Oil WHICH one Pics inside

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Default Shell Rotella Oil WHICH one Pics inside

Well I am getting ready for my install and start up on my built 383 and was told that shell rotella oil was one of the few that still had the zinc and phosphates in it that were needed for break in and protection, the problem is I have never used this oil. I went and found it and ran into three different kinds, which one of these has the zincs and phosphates for protection. One of them is a synthetic, I have read multiple articles stating not to use any synthetic for break in. So here are the pics,,also what viscosity ? When I read the bottles they said this oil was for tractors, and deisel trucks Etc...
Attached Thumbnails Shell Rotella Oil  WHICH one Pics inside-rot1.jpg   Shell Rotella Oil  WHICH one Pics inside-rot2.jpg   Shell Rotella Oil  WHICH one Pics inside-rot3.jpg  
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 01:09 AM
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#1 - straight 30 is like syrup, thick as ****

#2 - that is probably the correct one

#3 - i also heard synthetic is a no-go
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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I would NOT use sythetic for break-in...too slick, engine should be broke in for a couple thousand miles 1st. SAE 30 is somewhat thick, but not bad i use that oil in my 87 IROC with a 383..just not for winter use. Use 15-40 non syn.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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This is no longer true about Rottela oil they no longer have the same additives it used to. Our shop used to use Rottela oil and lost 3 cam shafts in a row on the dyno. We changed over to Valvoline 10w 30 conventional oil for our break in and have no problems sense. IMO I would stay clear of Rottela oil.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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^^^^^GE is right. For environmental reasons the Big Brother has forced oil companies to change formulas. Just get some Joe Gibbs breakin oil from TSP...
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Synthetics in general DO NOT impede break in. This is a myth. An oil high in ZDDP can still benefit a roller motor just not to the degree of what will be seen in a flat tappet motor. When Rotella went to CJ-4 the zinc content dropped to meet the new (2007+ diesel emmissions requirements). Pick any oil and get a zddp additive(ie Redline oil break in additive) and sleep well. FWIW the joe gibbs BR is a 50wt oil and is by no means any better than that of Rotella, other than it contains more zinc. If you run a heavy oil, pre -heat it before dumping it in.

Further, in the future look at bobistheoilguy.com for lubricant related advice. There are some very knowledgable folks here when it comes to motors and such, but very few who know the first thing about oil and how it even does it's job.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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ZDDP additive is for flat tappet camshafts. You do not need this for break-in. Synthetic is fine, but regular conventional oil is cheaper, considering you should change after 500 miles. But, think about it this way - new Corvettes have run synthetic straight from the factory. You'll be fine. I've used synthetic on my 383 since day one. No issues at all.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Just run it hard out of the gate to seat the rings as quickly as possible before they glaze over
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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Shell Rotella reformulated and removed the ZDDP from their multi weights about two years ago now. Lots of info out there says ZDDP is needed for protection of flat tappet cams. I used to run the Rotella but have since switched to the VR1 in my boat (Vortec 350).
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BAD2000TA
ZDDP additive is for flat tappet camshafts. You do not need this for break-in. Synthetic is fine, but regular conventional oil is cheaper, considering you should change after 500 miles. But, think about it this way - new Corvettes have run synthetic straight from the factory. You'll be fine. I've used synthetic on my 383 since day one. No issues at all.
ZDDP can be beneficial for seating of rings as well its not ONLT for cams. Look into it. It is well documented by several oil companies. BUt I guess LS1 tech knows better...... And for what its worth rotella still has ZDDP its just been reduced as far as concentration. You guys need to do your homework! Read up on zddp. The levels were cut by the EPA but for the most part PCMO's still have some just not enough for flat tappet applications.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 355TurboLT1
ZDDP can be beneficial for seating of rings as well its not ONLT for cams. Look into it. It is well documented by several oil companies. BUt I guess LS1 tech knows better...... And for what its worth rotella still has ZDDP its just been reduced as far as concentration. You guys need to do your homework! Read up on zddp. The levels were cut by the EPA but for the most part PCMO's still have some just not enough for flat tappet applications.
10-4 cheif
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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We use Valvoline VR1 20W50 mostly
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by AES Racing
We use Valvoline VR1 20W50 mostly
Yep I use this also in mine. It's a little thick, yet I have great oil pressure all the time.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:00 AM
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Rotella is a good lubricant and I use it in my Duramax. However, most of the oil manufactures have had to remove all of the good stuff due to govenment and EPA demands.

We typically use Chevron Delo (Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil), which has the zinc that is missing from most of the conventional oils in todays market. You can also purchse Valvaline's racing oil which also has a high amount of zinc; it's expensive and you can purchase a zinc additive to lessen the expense.

Good luck,
Mike
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Most of the oils still contain ZINC, it's concentration in PPM has just been reduced to meet the new federal guidelines. The people who say Rotella or any other HDEO is a bad oil obviously know little to nothing about lubricants as diesel oils are much more robust in every way than OTC PCMO's. The level of oil knowledge here is pretty low. You seem to have a solid grasp on the topic.
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