NightKidWS6

Hey everyone! I have a question that won't stop bothering me until I ask it, even though it may sound a little stupid. I know it will be a long time until I have enough money for a H/C setup, but I really have been contemplating whether to get an MTI X1 cam or a G5X3 cam. I would really like to know which one would make better power and net better 1/4 times, and still be very reliable. Even though I drive my Trans Am every day as a daily driver, it doesn't bother me too much to have a gas guzzling monster(and if worse comes to worse, I always have my daily driver CRX Si with only about 35,000 miles on the new engine). I know I will need tuning with either one, especially with my A4. I have also been thinking about getting MTI's stage 2 heads, but I've also been hearing alot about TEA's heads. I plan to run a Yank(definitely a Yank) 3600-4000(most likely a 3800) stall converter, and I might decide on a 125 wet shot of nitrous in the future(but not likely). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

the g5x3 will make the most power and would be faster in the 1/4. the x1 would be better for daily driving and still would make good power.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

what he said, if you go with the x3 might want a 4k+ stall.

NightKidWS6

Thanks! Would you recommend MTI's Stage 2 heads with the G5X3 cam, or are there better flowing Stage 2 heads available? I'm also staying with stock cubes.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

just looked at your sig, you better plan on some more bolt ons if you want to take advantage of a big h/c setup, definately will want some LTs. absolute heads and the g5 cams seem to be putting out great numbers.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

I dont know if I would go with a cam as large ast he G5X3 for an A4 daily driver. It seems that all of the sponsors stage 2 heads are putting out very good #'s.

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

i have LT'S and true 3" x and all the bolt-ons for either of these camshafts...but as a daily driver i think they are a bit much...plus i would like my spings to last a while...not to mention if you get milled heads and keep your stock bottom end with the G5X3 youll be fly cutting....ive heard a G5X3 and i talked to the guy and he didnt daily drive his..but the lick that cam hits at idle sittin at a stop light...no one would be wanting to try you...its sounds f-in nasty! anyway..just my opinion...things to take into consideration..

justin l

99SS M6

NightKidWS6

I think I will go with what I've had my mind on the whole time - the X1! I've been thinking about a Yank 3800, but I've heard so many people lately on this board talk about 4000+ converters and saying they aren't too bad on the street. Now I'm starting to think about maybe a Yank 4200-4400, but I'm also still on the stock 10 bolt rear end and I have no desire to change it right now, as money is hard to come by right now. The thing I fear most though is that many people seem to have a problem with their verter not shifting from 2nd to 3rd or from 3rd to 4th and so on. How could I avoid that problem? My goal is to have a mid-low 11 sec streetable car that is capable of being a daily driver(doesn't matter if it guzzles gas or not).

NightKidWS6

Yeah, I definitely plan on getting a converter first, then probably some QTP headers with ORY. I'm still a long way from heads and cam, but I just like to be well prepared. When I go for a H/C setup I will be definitely be doing the whole deal with dual springs, new retainers, etc.

SSactionLs1

i have the X1 in my manual car...and i love it. I dont think it will be that bad on your auto since it doesnt lope like other cams this size do.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

CALL MTI tell them what your goals and objectives are and they will HOOK YOU UP (no pun intended) with the perfect heads and cam package and tune of course, all with a warranty if they do the install!!!

Raughammer

Nightkid, do not worry about your rear. I never broke my stock one even when i went to 3.73's. Wheel hop is what kills them. I had hundreds of wheels up launches on my stock set up 10 bolt... just avoid wheel hop like the plague.
Secondly i would recommend the X1. I trap 127mph in an A4 and the car almost drives like a stocker. A c2 would be smoother and make almost the same power... but it WILL be less.
You choice of the Yank verter around 4200 and the X1 is a match made in heaven. A TP4200 is not the best street verter out there but it can be done if you do not mind the slippin' around town. TIP: the louder the exhaust the more it will bother you. A quiet exhaust (or one that is not blaring) will help on the "drivability" sensation.
Heads? Man, the MTI ones are the ticket and a perfect compliment for that cam. Stage 2-X1 cam- and a killer effecient Yank TP4200. Can you say mid 10's if the rest of the combo if well thought out?

I thought you could. Good luck buddy.
BTW, gas mileage is not that bad on the freeway. Not that bad at all.

NightKidWS6

Thank you so much! That is exactly what I have been looking for. Thanks to you I can now sleep a lot better. I was pretty sure that I wouldn't have to worry about my 10 bolt since I will probably never take it to the track or use drag radials, but I thought I should ask to be safe rather than sorry.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

If you never go to the track or use drag radials, this is not what you want. You need the 224 cam and a 3600 stall. Even then you are going to fry the tires every time you want to play. Nittos are a must on the street.

NightKidWS6

Now that I heard this, what do you think it would take to make the X1 cam street friendly? I plan on racing mostly on the street, so I need a good setup that will take most cars from stoplight to stoplight and from a roll. I definitely want the X1 cam for the power it makes and for not being as aggressive as the G5X3, but I don't want to have to worry about losing control every time I floor it. I don't have any problem with getting some Nitto 555r's(wouldn't it be okay to just have a pair for the back?), but I've heard that drag radials are what break the 10 bolt and I don't want to have to go through with that. So please, can anyone help me on how to make the X1 good for street racing(which probably won't be much, but we don't have many tracks around here where I live)?

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

Check Sig! The X1 cam and MTI heads are sweet. I love them. Tuning is a must! Just one thing to remember. If your going to spray you have to run a lower stall. When MTI put mine together they recommend a 3200 for spraying. When I spray she raps fast!!!! Check Sig for numbers. Right now in full street trim 3850lbs with me I cut 1.65 60ft`s with 11.4-11.5 on motor and 10.7-10.8 on spray. That was the first time out with E/T`s. I have never been back yet! I feel with 1.55 60ft`s I will be even lower with ET`s. You do need all the bolt on`s to get the most out, Good Luck!

JoSeY

"WERD" On what Raugh had to say...I had the exact set up...X1, Stg 2 heads, 4000 3 disc vig, stock 323 10bolt and the thing didn't idle like a cam that big, and drove great...gas mileage on the highway was very good 21+ish @ 80mph...

and when you yank everything out ur car and get the thing light wheels up launches are around the corner!!

SDB

iTrader: (7)

I have the X1 in my 382 and it is mild to me. Drives like stock (No tuning since swapping out B1 cam), no stuttering, starts instantly, etc. etc. etc. I would like to have gone bigger, but it seemed like this cam (I had mine on a 114 lobe) with my set up (382, stg. 2 heads, A4, mild Vig 2800) would work best with nitrous, which is being put on now. MTI said I wouldn't get much more with a bigger cam on my set up. X1 is great, lots more power than the B1 cam, and not too hot at all!

SDB

boos2

There are lots of guys running S2 heads and the X1. Josey was one I was going to name, poolfanatic had it in his old car. If you go with heads/cam you are going to need at least drag radials. Traction will be an issue.

Raughammer

Traction? How to make it streetable? etc, etc.

Tires amigo. Tires are the answer. If you make more power than your tires will hold you will spin.(period)

That is the only aswer i can give you. Tires.

If you do not want to spin you must use softer and softer tires. As you add more power, you will over come the tires and then you will realize you need more tire.

For mid 12's and high 11's you can get by with some Nittos, from 11.9 to about 11.4 you can maybe get by with some E.T. streets. But from 11.4 on down, on a prettymuch stock suspensioned F-body you will need some form of slick.

Now with that all said, you "could" go with a soft 1.6 STr verter' like the Super Yanks, talk to mike @ Yank. (www.converter.cc) Tell him that you would like to have a converter that will not blow the tires away but will pull like gang busters in the mid range and top end.

If you are mostly racing from a roll this becomes less and less important, but if you roll from the dead dog digs (stopped) then you will need tires. Big sticky wide *** tires that suck rocks in the rain.
I would recommend the Hoosiers over the Mickey T's. Even though i have had phenominal luck with the MT's the Hoosiers are getting all the rave reviews.
Note, once you get in the mid 11 sec range the E.T. streets are not very consistent.
(read: SPIN)

Good luck and i hope some of this info helps you out.