My LS1 spun a bearing and now I am looking to get an LQ9. I've done multiple searches on here as well as google and this is what I came up with:

-Alternator bolt hole in block needs tapped
-Truck intake will not fit under cowl
-Something about the windage tray needs to be cut to fit F-body oil pan

So, my questions are:

-Do I need the windage tray or can it be taken out? I read on another site somewhere that you don't need them but I have no clue on the matter.
-I have an LS6 intake that will be put on - If I am still going with the LS1 PCV system, do I still have to smooth out the certain points on the bottom of the LS6 intake?
-How much does a COMPLETE LQ9 engine weigh? (oil pan to intake) I have searched everywhere for this and couldn't find the answer.
-Is there anything else I'm missing?

The engine is an '05 BTW

Thanks everyone!

 

you can use the f body windage tray and pan.i would keep the tray as it's there to keep oil off the crank and stop it from being whipped up by the crank. the alt bolt needs tapped if you want it but lots of guys run without it with no issues. as far as weight i have no idea but it is supposed to be 80# heavier than an aluminum motor

 

You should, but you dont have to drill a hole for the alternator bolt.
Hell no a truck intake wont fit. You"ll see. Unless you want to cut your wiper blade part of your cowl.
Take the Pickup tube, windage tray, and oil pan off of one LS engine, and put it on the other. Oil pan, windage tray, and oilpan are all oil pan spacific.
You need one with the other.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

Anyone have any information about chiseling off the ridges on the LS6 intake? Do I still need to do it with the LQ9?

Now I just have to find out what the weight will be to estimate for shipping. Does between 650-750 lbs sound about right? (This is for the entire motor)

 

ive read that iron blocks weigh 88 lbs more than ls1s, and an ls1 weighs 430 or close to it( or so ive read) soo id say mid 500s would be a good guess

 

Being less than I estimated is definately a plus then!

I'm guess I'll just check to see where the coolant lines are on the LQ9 then and chisel off what needs to be taken off, depending on where the lines are run. Either that, or just chisel everything off. I don't see how that would hurt anything...

I just read something else about the oil pressure sending unit - says that the LQ9 comes with a 3 wire and I need a 1 wire. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...p-what-do.html

I'm thinking about putting the MS3 cam in it as well since the engine will already be out. I will be mainly doing pulls from some sort of a roll since I still have the 10 bolt and also a lot of highway cruising in the summer. This seems to be the best cam for what I want from everything I've read but I'm open to suggestions. I will not be swapping heads at this time (317's are on it). I'm hoping to break 400/400, not that numbers mean anything. Also, this car will probably NEVER see the track, if anything it will be autocrossed but I don't even think I'll be doing that.

Let me know what you all think...

 

You don't need to chisel off the bottom of the intake for knock sensors. That's only if you want to run the LS1 coolant crossover line, that goes under the intake. You can do that, or just buy an LS6 coolant crossover kit with the rear block-offs, and not worry about it. If you want to make good power, and not break the bank, look into a set of L92 heads. I was able to pick up a brand new set for $650 shipped. With the right cam, you'll make high 400's at the wheels. But, you'd have to run an LS3/L76 intake, instead of the LS6.

 

I'd have to get that intake due to the L92's having the cathedral ports, correct?

Thanks!

 

your gonna love that LQ9 especially with a decent H/C combo!

 

L92/LS3's have Square ports..



Another thing to look into is make sure that 2005 Engine has the 24X Crank Reluctor..I don't remember what the last year for that was..I think it was 2005 though.

 

my 05 is a 24x crank

 

Ah, whoops I had it backwards lol. I really wish I had the money to buy a setup like that. Maybe in the near future though... I'll have to get a new clutch and rear end if I get into the high 400's though seeing as I have the LS6 clutch.

 

Sorry for kinda stealing the topic away, but I am interested in the same thing, and if I were to get a shortblock, could I take all my accessories off my LS1 (waterpump, starter, sensors, etc.) and just swap it over? It seems like the only difference is the alternator bolt and the top end. Can I get away with a running motor with just the LS3 intake and heads with my TB? Trying to figure all the business out ahead of time and spend money once.

 

All the accesories are a direct swap from what I understand. Also, the LS3 intake will work, I haven't read about the heads though. Most people on here seem to use the L92's anyway. But, if you do swap the LS3 intake over, you can't use heads from LS1's since the ports are different as mentioned above.



So, anyone have any input on the MS3 cam I'd like to put in? Doing a cam swap is all I have in the budget right now. As much as I'd like to swap the L92 heads over, it just isn't in the cards right now.

 

Yes, you use all the LS1 accessories. But, I would suggest the L76 intake instead of the LS3, because of the MAP sensor mounting. The MAP sensor clips into the L76 intake, like the LS1/LS6 intakes, so you can use an LS1 MAP sensor easier, instead of the bolt-in sensor on the LS3 intake. You can use an LS1 sensor in the LS3 intake, but it takes a little modifying, so that it'll stay in the hole. As for the TB, you'll need a 4-bolt TB, unless there's an adapter plate for the LS1 TB on a 4bolt TB openning, and the SLP throttle cable bracket to make it work.

 

Dang, this seems like a really painless swap. I'm impressed. And mating it to a 4L60?

 

Bolts right up as long as you don't have the extended Crank Flange or the Crank Spacer.

 

Can You Bolt On An LS3 Intake With The Stock LQ9 Heads Though?

 

No...

 

Im about to start acquiring parts for this swap... any better writeups? Im doing this on the cheap so an accurate/efficient writeup would be awsome...