what "Re-Build" actuall means.
If you plan to replace rings, you need to have a machine shop bore it. They put fine cross hatch lines in the bore and they are used to get the rings shaved down a tiny bit so they fit the bore perfectly. If you dont then you will have some oil consuption issues. Also make sure to have the rest of the block machines also. New bearings, seals, ect. ect. If you plan to use old heads have them checked and machined too. 85% of all oil consuption comes from valve seats. At least this is what my instructor tell us in class =) And if you get it bored 30 over you might pick up 5 CI lol
btw . . . . . . you can't bore a LS1 block
have fun with the rebuild and put in a bigger crank if you want to up the displacement but you can't bore it because the walls are already too thin. a 6.0 iron block=success but a 5.7 aluminum block=fail
have fun with the rebuild and put in a bigger crank if you want to up the displacement but you can't bore it because the walls are already too thin. a 6.0 iron block=success but a 5.7 aluminum block=fail yep either LQ4 or LQ9 gen 3 will be easier to swap things and work with than gen 4. you can bore and stroke those without a problem (if you go through a smart person or company) a LQ4 with a 4.000" crank gives you a 402, boring it .030" over gives you a 408 i belive
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: des moines, iowa
Yep you just gotta dig in, if theres something you don't know, theres plenty of guys that do on here that you can ask. As far as bottom end goes, do a compression test atleast to make sure your rings are still in decent shape. When i did mine my compression test was excellent @ 146k miles. I pulled my heads off and could still see the hone marks n the cylinder walls. If you have a healthy motor now, and it hasn't had the tar beat out of it, you will probbaly be fine with heads/cam. Just make sure you do your research if your doing it yourself.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
I hear ya on he if it aint broke. read another member did H/C swap at 169,5xx and at like 300 miles later his engine hydro locked. hate to see something like that. I may take it to do compression check or leakdown. Just to make sure my block is worthy? is it expensive?
Last edited by THE SHOP; Apr 3, 2010 at 08:27 AM.
Harbor Freight Tools
1330 CLINTON RD.
FAYETTEVILLE, NC 28301
Besides, you only need the basic hand tools for most things. For everything else, there's Harbor Freight.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 426
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From: Fayetteville, NC
yeah I know what I need, already purchased heads ( 241's ) but have patriot gold springs with the lift I need, freshly machined. I've did my homework on the mods to run this thing safely, my buddy just knows where to turn the bolts lol
and thnx for lq4 and 9 info, my buddy keeps talking about his dads lq9 in his SS
If you plan to replace rings, you need to have a machine shop bore it. They put fine cross hatch lines in the bore and they are used to get the rings shaved down a tiny bit so they fit the bore perfectly. If you dont then you will have some oil consuption issues. Also make sure to have the rest of the block machines also. New bearings, seals, ect. ect. If you plan to use old heads have them checked and machined too. 85% of all oil consuption comes from valve seats. At least this is what my instructor tell us in class =) And if you get it bored 30 over you might pick up 5 CI lol
Valve seats won't cause oil consumption isses, they have nothing to do with oil. I think you meant valve seals, they can cause oil consumption isses, as well as guides.
Personally, I wouldn't build an engine for the first time, without someone who knows what they're doing...not just someone who says they know what they're doing. There is a big difference there.
Depending on how far you want to go on your rebuild, it may be better to have a professional shop perform the work.
must be a tool place???
yeah I know what I need, already purchased heads ( 241's ) but have patriot gold springs with the lift I need, freshly machined. I've did my homework on the mods to run this thing safely, my buddy just knows where to turn the bolts lol
and thnx for lq4 and 9 info, my buddy keeps talking about his dads lq9 in his SS
yeah I know what I need, already purchased heads ( 241's ) but have patriot gold springs with the lift I need, freshly machined. I've did my homework on the mods to run this thing safely, my buddy just knows where to turn the bolts lol
and thnx for lq4 and 9 info, my buddy keeps talking about his dads lq9 in his SS
an iron block is the way to go if you want to have a stroker or have a stroker and run spray or a blower 
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 426
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From: Fayetteville, NC
yeah the heads r in route, they will sit for about a month though lol...**** it, 346ci is plenty for me right now, I just want a nasty street car, If I ever wanna go full drag, then the iron blocks