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Think ive decided on the Torquer V.2, but what lsa?

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Default Think ive decided on the Torquer V.2, but what lsa?

just trying to figure out exactly what i should get with this cam package.

What lsa should i get with this Torquer V.2 cam, and should i get the optional PRC .675" lift EHT spring kit or stick with the standard PRC platinum spring kit. Just dont want to have to worry about anything breaking, i DD the car.

Im planning on getting the GM Head and Camshaft bolt and gaskit kit as well....anything im missing?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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I run it on a 112. TSP said I would allow me to reach peak HP at a lower rpm. I run it in a stalled A4 and it runs great.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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^ Was gonna say a 112 also. Better drivability and the power will be at a lower range. A 110 will most likely come in at a slightly higher and more narrow power band. -IIRC.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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alright 112 it is. any reason i should not upgrade to the more expensive springs? i dont want to worry about one of them failing
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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112LSA +4 advance will give you more low rpm torque while still maintaining top-end power.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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any idea on the springs guys? im ready to buy here...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Get the dual springs...I would if it was me anyway without a doubt.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
112LSA +4 advance will give you more low rpm torque while still maintaining top-end power.
Strongly agree w/the +4 and would want the Comp XER profile as well.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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I broke a factory spring with factory cam, upgraded to dual springs with new cam install.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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I run the PAC 1518 single beehive springs. I'm giving up a little protection but they have an outstanding track record and I have less valvetrain weight.

Good choice with the 112 also, that's what I'm running.

Do yourself a favor and pick up a longer bolt for the crank install, it's really not optional. M16x2.0 x 120mm is what you want to pull the pulley on. Valve seals would be a good idea also since you're in there and they're very cheap.

Get a decent valvespring tool, I bought the tims tool and it worked well, it was just a little time consuming.

Get a 5/16 dowel rod for the lifters on the driverside, maybe a size smaller for the passenger side but be prepared to grind it down... I think that covers it. Loctite too...

I just recently did this and the cam job is pretty straight forward, just take your time (If you've never done it before). Oh, and I don't recommend the top dead center method, get an air hose adapter to pressurize the cylinder when changing springs, it makes it a LOT easier.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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I'm considering this cam also but have concerns about the daily driveability and tuneability. The 3 cars I heard recently with this cam did not idle very well and all seemed to be hunting for idle. I really wouldn't want to give up any of the low end torque the stock cam has, and I definitely wouldn't want to have a cam that bucks and surges at low speeds or cruising in 6th gear.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Longshot LCMS
Do yourself a favor and pick up a longer bolt for the crank install, it's really not optional. M16x2.0 x 120mm is what you want to pull the pulley on.
Do yourself an even bigger favor and don't do this. Use a stud or the proper install tool. I broke a longer bolt off in the end of my crank, then broke an EZ off in the end of the bolt, and had to take the engine to a place that did EDM to have it removed at a cost of $300. This was after several machine shops said they didn't want to touch it without pulling the crank.

DO NOT USE A LONGER BOLT GET THE PROPER TOOL IT IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
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