Gonna be one of 'those' guys...cam questions.
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gonna be one of 'those' guys...cam questions.
Hey all, in light of the wealth of knowledge on here I'm going to run my fairly cam swap by you and see if I have everything covered.
I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.
Also, what type of springs is everyone going with on this cam? I'm not really familiar with spring brand and types.
I bought an underdrive pulley, oil pump, ls2 timing set so far. I'll be buying the rest of it in a few days. Anything else I'm forgetting besides the misc tools I'll need?
Also, what do you think about just doing a mail order tune for now? Would that be a sufficient long term tune or does it absolutely NEED a dyno/street tune?
Thanks all, I appreciate any help you can give.
I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.
Also, what type of springs is everyone going with on this cam? I'm not really familiar with spring brand and types.
I bought an underdrive pulley, oil pump, ls2 timing set so far. I'll be buying the rest of it in a few days. Anything else I'm forgetting besides the misc tools I'll need?
Also, what do you think about just doing a mail order tune for now? Would that be a sufficient long term tune or does it absolutely NEED a dyno/street tune?
Thanks all, I appreciate any help you can give.
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Hey all, in light of the wealth of knowledge on here I'm going to run my fairly cam swap by you and see if I have everything covered.
I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.
I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.
Good luck
#3
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the input. I hadn't originally planned on lifters, do you feel they would be necessary?
I may get a mail order tune just to get me to an actual dyno facility if it seems like it's too dangerous to run one without it.
I may get a mail order tune just to get me to an actual dyno facility if it seems like it's too dangerous to run one without it.
#5
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
100K, I was really trying to avoid pulling the heads at this time. I plan on doing heads in another year (probably at tax time) and would obviously do them then.
Are they a part that commonly breaks?
Are they a part that commonly breaks?
Trending Topics
#8
FormerVendor
iTrader: (45)
Just saw this...
I have never put 30 deg of timing into anything at WOT. If the MAF is dieing and is on it's way out it may be reporting a very low air mass. That would make you lean and put you in a place of lower load on the timing map (higher timing than you SHOULD be at for WOT). Likewise for the AFR, my mail orders target a quite rich WOT area for safety... about 12.0-12.3:1. Again though, a MAF that reports low would likewise cause a lean WOT mixture from a lower reported air mass.
I have seen about a dozen MAFs this year that are reporting MUCH lower than they should be. They won't set codes, but they are definitely bad. I have seen a few cars that were tuned with these bad MAFs and the tuner didn't even recognize them as bad. They jacked around IFR (and one guy added 27% to the whole MAF curve) to tune around the dieing MAFs. Those MAFs will continue to go south and report lower and lower though over time.
Without seeing the car, I can't say that this WAS the issue, but the shoe fits and it's not incredibly uncommon. Your car has to be in full proper working order for a mail order tune to be effective. I tell everyone with internal mods through email AND on my site though that mail order tunes for internal cars are to get them up and driving and solid so that they can see someone in-person with a wideband for full tuning; they are no substitute for this.
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
As mentioned it's always a good idea to measure pushrod length.
Frost is one of the best mail order tuners on this site. I would believe what he says. A mail order tune can get it close but will not substitute for a dyno session.