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Gonna be one of 'those' guys...cam questions.

Old 04-23-2010, 03:55 PM
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Default Gonna be one of 'those' guys...cam questions.

Hey all, in light of the wealth of knowledge on here I'm going to run my fairly cam swap by you and see if I have everything covered.

I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.

Also, what type of springs is everyone going with on this cam? I'm not really familiar with spring brand and types.

I bought an underdrive pulley, oil pump, ls2 timing set so far. I'll be buying the rest of it in a few days. Anything else I'm forgetting besides the misc tools I'll need?

Also, what do you think about just doing a mail order tune for now? Would that be a sufficient long term tune or does it absolutely NEED a dyno/street tune?

Thanks all, I appreciate any help you can give.
Old 04-23-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Gatsby
Hey all, in light of the wealth of knowledge on here I'm going to run my fairly cam swap by you and see if I have everything covered.

I'm going to be doing a TSP Torquer V.3 and all the fixins. I plan on doing double valve springs (unless everyone thinks singles would be better for some reason?). I rear somewhere that the V.3 would be better off with a 7.425" pushrods over 7.4", is this correct as far as everyone knows? I have no problem buying the length checked but I'd like to order them and then check to make sure they're right and that way I'll have them there ready to go.
The only way you will get the correct pr length is to measure no two ways about it.

Originally Posted by Gatsby
Also, what type of springs is everyone going with on this cam? I'm not really familiar with spring brand and types.
You can look into the PRC EHT set they have a lift of .675 and that give you room in case of over rev. also they will help with valve float.

Originally Posted by Gatsby
I bought an underdrive pulley, oil pump, ls2 timing set so far. I'll be buying the rest of it in a few days. Anything else I'm forgetting besides the misc tools I'll need?
Lifters do you have them? Do not use LS7 lifter aggressive lobed cams with high lift tend to cause failure with them.

Originally Posted by Gatsby
Also, what do you think about just doing a mail order tune for now? Would that be a sufficient long term tune or does it absolutely NEED a dyno/street tune?
If your mail order tune is off it can hurt your engine. I had a friend with a FROST tune he was at 17:1 A/F and 30* of timing on a cam only LS1...yeah. A street tune if you have a good tuner you will be fine.

Originally Posted by Gatsby
Thanks all, I appreciate any help you can give.
Good luck
Old 04-23-2010, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the input. I hadn't originally planned on lifters, do you feel they would be necessary?

I may get a mail order tune just to get me to an actual dyno facility if it seems like it's too dangerous to run one without it.
Old 04-23-2010, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Gatsby
Thanks for the input. I hadn't originally planned on lifters, do you feel they would be necessary?

I may get a mail order tune just to get me to an actual dyno facility if it seems like it's too dangerous to run one without it.
how many miles on the lifters u have now?
Old 04-23-2010, 06:31 PM
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100K, I was really trying to avoid pulling the heads at this time. I plan on doing heads in another year (probably at tax time) and would obviously do them then.

Are they a part that commonly breaks?
Old 04-23-2010, 07:25 PM
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TSP can advise you of everything you need including springs. You would do well to follow their advice as it's their cam.
Old 04-23-2010, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Gatsby
100K, I was really trying to avoid pulling the heads at this time. I plan on doing heads in another year (probably at tax time) and would obviously do them then.

Are they a part that commonly breaks?
50K miles or less you are ok 75K miles or more you must change them no 2 ways about it.
Old 05-16-2010, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 02*C5
.....

If your mail order tune is off it can hurt your engine. I had a friend with a FROST tune he was at 17:1 A/F and 30* of timing on a cam only LS1...yeah. A street tune if you have a good tuner you will be fine.

Good luck

Just saw this...

I have never put 30 deg of timing into anything at WOT. If the MAF is dieing and is on it's way out it may be reporting a very low air mass. That would make you lean and put you in a place of lower load on the timing map (higher timing than you SHOULD be at for WOT). Likewise for the AFR, my mail orders target a quite rich WOT area for safety... about 12.0-12.3:1. Again though, a MAF that reports low would likewise cause a lean WOT mixture from a lower reported air mass.

I have seen about a dozen MAFs this year that are reporting MUCH lower than they should be. They won't set codes, but they are definitely bad. I have seen a few cars that were tuned with these bad MAFs and the tuner didn't even recognize them as bad. They jacked around IFR (and one guy added 27% to the whole MAF curve) to tune around the dieing MAFs. Those MAFs will continue to go south and report lower and lower though over time.

Without seeing the car, I can't say that this WAS the issue, but the shoe fits and it's not incredibly uncommon. Your car has to be in full proper working order for a mail order tune to be effective. I tell everyone with internal mods through email AND on my site though that mail order tunes for internal cars are to get them up and driving and solid so that they can see someone in-person with a wideband for full tuning; they are no substitute for this.
Old 05-16-2010, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharpe
TSP can advise you of everything you need including springs. You would do well to follow their advice as it's their cam.
Sharpe is right as usual. If you buy a cam or any other setup from a vendor I would follow their suggestions. Don't dismiss what they say and go looking on the internet for "mechanics" and their opinions.

As mentioned it's always a good idea to measure pushrod length.

Frost is one of the best mail order tuners on this site. I would believe what he says. A mail order tune can get it close but will not substitute for a dyno session.


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