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How to remove broken valve cover bolt from head?

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Old May 12, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Default How to remove broken valve cover bolt from head?

The bolt was overtightened, and part of the bolt is still above the bolt boss in the head. What tools would be used to perform this repair, and how long should it take to properly remove the bolt? Would it need to be taken to a machine shop and if so, how many hours of labor should it take them?

I'm parting the motor out and I'm trying to decide if I should take a $100 hit on the price of the heads, or repair it before selling it.

Last edited by JimMueller; May 12, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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If part of the bolt is still accessible before the break, try clamping some vice grips on there and cranking it the rest of the way out. I do this all the time on stock manifold bolts that break off in the heads.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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It's probably sticking out 1/8" and the tip of my vise grips are smooth (no teeth). Can't get a good grip on it...

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Old May 31, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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you have access to a welder? Just gotta make sure you have that open head covered up like a 18 yr old on prom night from slag. I have done it before as a last resort.

Edit: This is a a bitch to try and ground with the work clamp too. It was pretty shady but I made it work with some southern engineering.

Last edited by orangeapeel; May 31, 2010 at 11:22 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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Cut a slot in it with a Dremel, and use a large screwdriver to remove it.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 99C5Coupe
Cut a slot in it with a Dremel, and use a large screwdriver to remove it.
I did something like this when a bolt for the clutch slave cylinder broke off. I drilled hole right down the middle of this 6mm bolt (mad skill) and cut a slot in the side and tapped it out that way.

Since it's in the cylinder head, cover everything up so none of the metal gets into the oil. I use tape and paper towels, and even a sho vac while I'm drilling.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Don't have a welder. If grinding/drilling are my only options, I may as well sell it as-is so the buyer is reponsible for the repair.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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With that little bit left I would try slotting it and using a screwdriver. I would also use a propane torch to heat that part of the head up real well. There's a reason that bolt broke in the first place.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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there are also some screw/bolt extractors that sometimes work however it is hard to tell how much is left there, it is prob broken to low to get a good "bite" on it to get it out with one of those.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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Have you tried needle nose pliers? I had a break like that and the needle nose came through...
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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How did you break it anyway? The torque on those things is 9 ftlbs. Who the hell over tightened it? kick them in the nuts.

Anyway see if you can use some needle nose pliers. The bolt is really small to use an easy out so that probably wont work. Last option is machine shop and they can weld a bolt on there and get her out.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LS12Fast4U
How did you break it anyway? The torque on those things is 9 ftlbs. Who the hell over tightened it? kick them in the nuts.

Anyway see if you can use some needle nose pliers. The bolt is really small to use an easy out so that probably wont work. Last option is machine shop and they can weld a bolt on there and get her out.
I have seen some people that use an impact wrench for the worst things.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I have seen some people that use an impact wrench for the worst things.
That's the truth. It could have been cross threaded too. It is threaded into aluminum too. It could have just seized.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Tried needle nose pliers, can't get a good bite on the bolt. I'll admit that I broke the damn thing I was trying to judge how tight it was by the shape of that rubber seal under the bolt head. I was going real slow with a ratchet wrench and all of a sudden SNAP
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