Great point and +1 on the RP filter. Made in the US, flows and filters extremely well. I don't like RP oil, but their filter is top notch.

 

I just purchased a 98 ss. I am going through and changing all the fluids and oils so I have a starting point. It has 100k on the odometer. Mind you, I live in the Central Valley California and next month it will be average of 105 degrees farenheit. What do you guys recommend as far as engine oil?. Should I use the recommened 5w30 Mobil1? Thank You

 

my mechanic explained to me that chevy uses mobile 1 because of the polimers ans metals in the oil..it allows them to put out a dirtier motor from the factory..it was originaly used because it fooled the sniffer..

i personaly use royal purple and lucas stabalizer..

 

I only use Castrol GTX 10w30 year round. Changed every 3000 miles & seems to be working flawlessly. Car now has 150k miles on it & runs great. When we pulled the heads for the H/C swap at 103k miles the cylinders still had the original cross hatchings & no sludge. I daily drive it year round so it sees plenty of miles & gets beat on daily.

For filter I run a Purolator.

 

Mobil 1 5w-30 full syn. 5 quarts at walmart for $21 I think...plus your extra quart. I'm running Mobil 1 0w-30 in it currently, and whatever is causing the engine ticking sound, it seems to be louder with the 0w-30. I'm glad actually, now I know it will be ticking nice and loud for my mechanic to hear so he can diagnose it easier.

I'm gonna try "German" castrol 0w-30 next. But, some people take oil way too seriously. Proper change intervals is what's really going to keep your engine alive and running good. You could even run a quality conventional oil and be fine if you change it regularly, IMO. Synthetic is definitely a better oil though, and I won't be switching to conventional.

 

Always run Mobil 1 synthetic 10W40..and was running a delco filter but will be switching to WIX or K&N soon

 

Oh really? ive ran castrol syntec 5w-40 for the last 3-4 years and have not had any oil issues, oil consumption or valvetrain issues like you see with some people who run 5w-30.. i guess we shouldnt modify our cars also huh?

 

I use 5w30 royal purple with a k&n filter, only cuz of the lil nut on the bottom makes it easy to remove since theres zero room thanks to my LTs.

 

I'd go with Mobil-1 10W-40 High Mileage if cost is your primary concern (Wal-Mart sells it in 5qt jugs for $23 here), or Mobil-1 0W-40 if you don't mind paying a tad more.

 

never believed in using mobile 1, seems like any motor u put it in, burns oil alot faster. also after tearing apart several motors, ive always noticed the mobile 1 to be wayyyy more burnt, and causes way more sludge or carbom build up, heres a example:
mobile 1 on left, pennzoil on right

 

Thats varnish and has no impact on lubrication fwiw. It is purely cosmetic. An engine without coolant intrusion into the crankcase WILL NOT form sludge with a oil like mobil 1, unless there is a design flaw, ie poor flow internally, really bad EGR design etc... Mobil 1 is a great oil for a group IV base. There 0w-40 is used in many race platforms throughout the world.

I use Redline 5w-30 and 10w-40. This is a true synthetic ( Polyol ester group V). Proven again and again every sunday at a track near you! I have been using it for 17 years. And yes, I am a regular at bobistheoilguy. I am not a tribologist, but know quite a bit about lubricants in general. This site is great for tech, but all of the oil posts I have seen are laughable.

 

^^^ i would agree with him. I just stick with my Amsoil personal, Redline great, also seen some great stuff from schaffers oil. Pretty much todays oils are all good stuff. Use to use Mobil 1, used vavoline syn stuff, all had great tested results. Just have better with the amsoil.

 

watch out guys, we got a rocket-scientist on our hands. LMAO
u'r genius level is just way over my head. lol

 

not sure how u can relate that to coolant? both those pumps were pulled out of stock ls1s, same motors, ect. when u open it up and it reeks of burnt oil. its pretty obvious.

 

Easy coolant in the oil will lead to sludge issues. Not to mention a EGR issue which plagues many vehicles. So you are claiming you run your "stock LS1" so hard its cooking mobil 1 but the other walmart synthetic is doing great?? Sorry doesnt add up. There is a variable you are either unaware of or are not mentioning. A modern conventional will keep any stock LS or otherwise relatively clean for its entire life. With the exception of varnish, which again is COSMETIC.

Mobil 1 happens to beat most oils in the build up tests. They are performed by a third party. An LS motor is relatively easy on oil. The cam bearings shed quite a bit of copper but the oil doesnt shear like in a 4 cylinder. The temps inside of a ls v-8 will never solidify the oil. Period.

Gather some data then come back and we can discuss this further. I like factual discussions, not this worked and this didnt cause this is better. There is no magic oil.

 

I run Amsoil

 

I have heard nothing but great things about Brad Penn oil. Search it in google.

 

I have heard nothing about Brad Penn oil, lol. Surprising too since they're based in Bradford, PA. Closest place that sells it is in York. Honestly never heard of it before.

 

Amsoil synthetic

 

ok well since this a topic abt oil lol when i start my car the oil presure show abt 40 45
but once it heats up it seems to drop to abt 25 and idk if that normal or nt...
i am using mobil 5-30 can u guys help me out here...
i was thinking its ethier my oil pump or im using the wrong oil?
mods= ms3 cam and longtubes, soon fast 92 and throttle body