Does this sound like a crank Relearn Problem??
#1
Does this sound like a crank Relearn Problem??
OK, I have finished my building my 383 and fired it up I re-used all the original sensors, the same Heads I had, and a new cam, here is the problem I am having...
It will fire right up and idle good after I put a little heat in it, Then it will rev about to 3k and start missing terribly, if I try to pass the 3k mark it will start backfiring something awful along with the miss, then die. Then start right back up. It will throw a po336 crank sensor range fault. I have checked all the wiring going to it, and looks fine. The only other thing I knew to try was buy a new crank sensor. I installed it and with the new one it wont Idle for crap, really wont run at all, and throws the same code really quick. I clear the code and same thing. I put the OE sensor back in, and back to the original problem, It will only go to 3k and miss again.
I read a post about shimming the sensor,, that was no good, wouldnt run. But the weirdest thing happened when I put the sensor back to normal ( before replacing it) The car started and ran good and even revved to over 5 k and didnt miss. Then after a few seconds,, the miss was back and so was the code.
I have read about this crank relearn, I will be having the car tuned within the next two weeks, but I hate to take it in with a problem. Any Ideas of what Else I may be ale to do myself?
also does this sound like a crank relearn problem? I have also heard about this being caused by a bent reluctor wheel, or a space in between the two pieces?
any help will be appreciated fellas I am bangin my head here
It will fire right up and idle good after I put a little heat in it, Then it will rev about to 3k and start missing terribly, if I try to pass the 3k mark it will start backfiring something awful along with the miss, then die. Then start right back up. It will throw a po336 crank sensor range fault. I have checked all the wiring going to it, and looks fine. The only other thing I knew to try was buy a new crank sensor. I installed it and with the new one it wont Idle for crap, really wont run at all, and throws the same code really quick. I clear the code and same thing. I put the OE sensor back in, and back to the original problem, It will only go to 3k and miss again.
I read a post about shimming the sensor,, that was no good, wouldnt run. But the weirdest thing happened when I put the sensor back to normal ( before replacing it) The car started and ran good and even revved to over 5 k and didnt miss. Then after a few seconds,, the miss was back and so was the code.
I have read about this crank relearn, I will be having the car tuned within the next two weeks, but I hate to take it in with a problem. Any Ideas of what Else I may be ale to do myself?
also does this sound like a crank relearn problem? I have also heard about this being caused by a bent reluctor wheel, or a space in between the two pieces?
any help will be appreciated fellas I am bangin my head here
#2
Here is a pic of the crank when I installed. It was a used crank but checked out by a great shop and told condition was perfect. I dont know if he checked runout of the reluctor wheel. I turned the motor over many many times on the stand by hand and know that the crank reluctor did not contact anything at all. Of course I couldnt turn fast enough to see any wobble if there was any at all.
#3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Go to AZ etc.... and have them pull codes.... IIRC it won't even run with a bad crank sensor but it will with a bad cam sensor... Often have tach issues with cam sensor but not always.... I dealt with this on my 5.3 like 9 years ago and just can't remember everything. I do seem to remember I had to take it to a stealer to have a crank relearn because my car wouldn't start after the CPS went out....We all know though different car do diff things with the same prob sometimes though. At least it easy to get to for once....
Last edited by SOMbitch; 05-26-2010 at 01:18 AM.
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#8
TECH Senior Member
See this: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9361.php
It might be as simple as damaged/corroded/melted wiring (see how the CKP wires pass under the header near the starter)... check continuity between the CKP connector and the PCM connector.
It might be as simple as damaged/corroded/melted wiring (see how the CKP wires pass under the header near the starter)... check continuity between the CKP connector and the PCM connector.