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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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Default Over-rev?

I am just starting to build my Camaro, but I was wondering a few things before I get to deep into it. I was told the major killer of LS1's, when they are NA at least is that they like to spin bearings, and that is mainly from revving them too high.

I was looking into a Texas Speed Heads/Cam combo, and was wondering if having a powerband to 6500 is too high for a stock bottom end LS1. I know a really common thing is to install the LS6 oil pump, which I probably would do when I installed the heads/cam, but is there anything else I should know? Thanks.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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the stock bottom end has weak rod bolts too

what are the goals for this car?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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Not at all, my rev-limiter is set to 6800 and ive bumped the limiter numerous times on a stock bottom end motor no issues for 6 years+... 346s are no joke!

The key is to beef up the upper powertrain like rods, springs, and lifters to handle your application. only worry about bottome end when go FI and your pushing over 600RWHP

Last edited by eamador11; Jun 3, 2010 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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^^^^ true except I would recommend the rod bolts just to be cautious.. Up pas 6500 rpm they have been known the snap. I would switch them out but this is just my suggestion.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Lambert695
^^^^ true except I would recommend the rod bolts just to be cautious.. Up pas 6500 rpm they have been known the snap. I would switch them out but this is just my suggestion.
No they don't snap. If they snapped you wouldn't spin bearings, you'd kick rods out of the side of the block. They can stretch, but they don't snap.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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So when I go to replace the oil pump, put in stronger rod bolts? How do you guys go about doing this? Just pull on of the rod bolts, put the new/stronger one in, pull the other, put the new stronger one in? No messing with the bearings or anything?

What the goals for the car were probably going to be were the Texas Speed heads/cam,fast 90/90, possibly tsp headers, and maybe a 100 shot after that.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Katech rod bolts are a must in my opinion. My rev limiter is set at 7050 on my 402, and the shift points are set at 6500.

As for install, check this out.http://www.ls1engine.com/tech/98-02-...-bolt-install/
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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I completely disagree with the rod bolt debate (WHEN NON FI AND UNDER 600RWHP, UNDER 6500RPM)

it's simply unnecessary, and is a huge job to undertake.

keep her under 6500 and you'll be golden.

again, I don't think upgraded rod bolts are necessary- this is assuming you don't pull 7000rpm shifts all the time.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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In order to replace the rod bolts you have to drop the oil pan right?
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Austinma62
In order to replace the rod bolts you have to drop the oil pan right?
Yes, and to get the oil pan off you have to drop the k-member.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Paint_It_Black
No they don't snap. If they snapped you wouldn't spin bearings, you'd kick rods out of the side of the block. They can stretch, but they don't snap.
yes they do snap. I never said anything about spinning rod bearings. Bolts have snapped and sent parts flying. They stretch and they do snap...
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Lambert695
yes they do snap. I never said anything about spinning rod bearings. Bolts have snapped and sent parts flying. They stretch and they do snap...
It's uncommon to snap one and the OP was asking about spun bearings.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Paint_It_Black
It's uncommon to snap one and the OP was asking about spun bearings.
Well, breaking or stretching a rod bolt would be most unwanted, as well as spun bearings. I would rather spend the money for new rod bolts up front, rather than breaking something, and possibly replacing the entire bottom end.

With that said, if I put the new rod bolts in, what would be a 'safe RPM' to spin the motor to?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1T56FTW
So when I go to replace the oil pump, put in stronger rod bolts? How do you guys go about doing this? Just pull on of the rod bolts, put the new/stronger one in, pull the other, put the new stronger one in? No messing with the bearings or anything?

What the goals for the car were probably going to be were the Texas Speed heads/cam,fast 90/90, possibly tsp headers, and maybe a 100 shot after that.
yes all you need to do is replace the bolts one at a time at the correct torque.

follow the instructions in the earlier post...
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro_built7
I completely disagree with the rod bolt debate (WHEN NON FI AND UNDER 600RWHP, UNDER 6500RPM)

it's simply unnecessary, and is a huge job to undertake.

keep her under 6500 and you'll be golden.

again, I don't think upgraded rod bolts are necessary- this is assuming you don't pull 7000rpm shifts all the time.
a friend of mine who works in the GM powertrain lab suggested I swap out the stock rod bolts ASAP. It was the first thing he swapped out before dropping in a crate LS1 into an S10.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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I thought you had to resize the rods when changing the bolts
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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with the right cam and slicks and programing the rev limiter in the ecm you should not see 6500 rpm.get a EPS cam no need to spin it high to make usable power.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Stockers are cracked rods.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mvvette97
I thought you had to resize the rods when changing the bolts
katech rod bolts are direct replacement
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by LS-1Z28
katech rod bolts are direct replacement
Now with those bolts, would I still have to worry about spinning a bearing at 6500ish, or would that only be a precaution for breaking/stretching a rod bolt?
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