broken arp crank bolt
06-21-2010, 09:34 PM
#22
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did i say i smacked it? i tapped it on with not much force at all. just to seat it on there so there was more for the bolt to grab on to...maybe tapped it on 1/4-3/8s
06-21-2010, 10:34 PM
#25
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You don't need to use anything to push it on if you heat it up (in my experience anyway...). I used a propane torch on mine for maybe 30 seconds max at a relatively low setting, picked it up by the pulley end with my bare hands, and it easily slid on, and made a very positive "clank" when it bottomed out.
I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???
I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.
I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!
I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???
I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.
I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!
if only i'd known about ls1howto before hand. majority of the time i only used it for the torque specs cause i had done most of the stuff before. unfortunately, being a front cover noob f'ed my couch.
06-22-2010, 04:29 AM
#26
I would not heat the damper to install. The correct tool is what is required.
The ARP bolt is a hardened material. Without going into details, it breaking is not a surprise. You will need to make a tool to keep a drill bit centered if you are going to drill it out. I wouldn't attempt this without a jig to center the bit, at least for the pilot hole. I would call ARP and get a recommendation on the type of bit to get, but a standard drill bit won't work.
The damper is an interference fit and requires some force to push it into place. It must also be seated hard against the oil drive gear.
The ARP bolt is a hardened material. Without going into details, it breaking is not a surprise. You will need to make a tool to keep a drill bit centered if you are going to drill it out. I wouldn't attempt this without a jig to center the bit, at least for the pilot hole. I would call ARP and get a recommendation on the type of bit to get, but a standard drill bit won't work.
The damper is an interference fit and requires some force to push it into place. It must also be seated hard against the oil drive gear.
06-22-2010, 07:34 AM
#27
The trick I use is to apply a SMALL amount of anti-seize to the crank snout.
My crank is keyed and I use an ARP bolt, and a small amount of blue locktite.
Buy a long starter bolt if necessary too. I'd have to go back and check, but when I called ARP, they recommended 225ftlb torque on the crank, not the 240 everyone advertises. I put mine in about 230 previously and no problems.
Replace your crank. I don't see you getting that broke bolt out, especially if its cross threaded or stuck in there.
My crank is keyed and I use an ARP bolt, and a small amount of blue locktite.
Buy a long starter bolt if necessary too. I'd have to go back and check, but when I called ARP, they recommended 225ftlb torque on the crank, not the 240 everyone advertises. I put mine in about 230 previously and no problems.
Replace your crank. I don't see you getting that broke bolt out, especially if its cross threaded or stuck in there.
06-22-2010, 10:45 AM
#28
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I would not heat the damper to install. The correct tool is what is required.
The ARP bolt is a hardened material. Without going into details, it breaking is not a surprise. You will need to make a tool to keep a drill bit centered if you are going to drill it out. I wouldn't attempt this without a jig to center the bit, at least for the pilot hole. I would call ARP and get a recommendation on the type of bit to get, but a standard drill bit won't work.
The damper is an interference fit and requires some force to push it into place. It must also be seated hard against the oil drive gear.
The ARP bolt is a hardened material. Without going into details, it breaking is not a surprise. You will need to make a tool to keep a drill bit centered if you are going to drill it out. I wouldn't attempt this without a jig to center the bit, at least for the pilot hole. I would call ARP and get a recommendation on the type of bit to get, but a standard drill bit won't work.
The damper is an interference fit and requires some force to push it into place. It must also be seated hard against the oil drive gear.
i still plan on getting one of the tools for the pulley install so i'll take your word for it about not heating it up. seems like everyone has an opinion on it but i don't wanna break anything else.
Replace your crank. I don't see you getting that broke bolt out, especially if its cross threaded or stuck in there.
if i'm gonna do bottom end work i might as well make it forged since i plan on doing forced induction later on. if i get just a new crank i'd still have to get my bearings machined so it would still end up costing a lot.
12-24-2010, 10:03 PM
#29
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I would reccomend using an old torque to yeild bolt to install it while lightly heating the dampner being careful not to heat it too much. If you have access to dry ice use it to "shrink" the crank snout a little would also help. At work we use liquid nitrogen to shrink pins and bushings to get them in with no damage. Just my 2 cents
12-24-2010, 11:03 PM
#30
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I would NOT recommend any other way then the correct tool. I believe Hawk is MIA, but Dirtrackracer is making some nice ones now-a-days. He has a thread in the tool section. This info is for anyone who is searching.
12-25-2010, 02:02 AM
#32
Nothing like a little suspense thrown into the mix. 
12-25-2010, 10:10 AM
#33
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i heated my pulley with a small propane torch, just the center hub, and it was the best pulley install ever. I could even hold the pulley on the outside without gloves. slid on without any tools and then torqued it down. My only concern was the front seal... but when that pulley slides on the crank it locks down almost instantly on the crank as the heat transfer is very fast. Of course i didnt get the pulley extremely hot just enough to slide right on. Seal is still fine 5 months later. This is how i will do it from now on... its just nice, fast and easy. Im sure a lot of people would frown upon it but by the time they are still setting up their install tool im on my way to the track 
haha
haha
12-25-2010, 10:14 AM
#34
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You don't need to use anything to push it on if you heat it up (in my experience anyway...). I used a propane torch on mine for maybe 30 seconds max at a relatively low setting, picked it up by the pulley end with my bare hands, and it easily slid on, and made a very positive "clank" when it bottomed out.
I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???
I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.
I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!
I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???
I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.
I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!
12-25-2010, 04:57 PM
#37
Heating upthe balancer is the easiest and most efficient way of getting the balancer on. No worry of breaking bolts, going on crooked, stripping threads, etc. Heat the balancer in an over for about 20 mins. I normally set the oven at the lowest temp or use a propane torch and heat the hub completely around for roughly 25-30 seconds. It will slide right on. No way to screw it up.
12-26-2010, 08:28 AM
#40