broken arp crank bolt
broken arp crank bolt Long story short, the bolt broke about 5 threads in so I'm gonna try using a shorter bolt and tap the front part that doesn't have threads right now.
Anyone know what size tap to use, what heilcoil to use and a bolt to match?
Anyone know what size tap to use, what heilcoil to use and a bolt to match?
Use a 3/4-24 bolt and you should be good to go.
Uh, ..., standard LSx crankshaft nose thread is an M16x2.0 metric thread I believe, ...
if you're really curious... i was doing the ls1howto.com way and using the bolt to push the pulley on and i was using a 40 inch breaker bar, but i wasn't putting much force on it at all. well it got to a point where it would't budge unless i were to put a lot of force into it and the pulley clearly wasn't on all the way. i tried backing out the bolt (thinking the pulley may be going on at an angle) and i ended up snapping the bolt backing it out.
i'm just hoping i didn't mess up the transmission either since i had it in 5th gear when i accomplished what few have managed to do, break an arp crank bolt.
i'm just hoping i didn't mess up the transmission either since i had it in 5th gear when i accomplished what few have managed to do, break an arp crank bolt.
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if you're really curious... i was doing the ls1howto.com way and using the bolt to push the pulley on and i was using a 40 inch breaker bar, but i wasn't putting much force on it at all. well it got to a point where it would't budge unless i were to put a lot of force into it and the pulley clearly wasn't on all the way. i tried backing out the bolt (thinking the pulley may be going on at an angle) and i ended up snapping the bolt backing it out.
i'm just hoping i didn't mess up the transmission either since i had it in 5th gear when i accomplished what few have managed to do, break an arp crank bolt.
i'm just hoping i didn't mess up the transmission either since i had it in 5th gear when i accomplished what few have managed to do, break an arp crank bolt.
I've had my pulley off a couple of times and each time I would flinch when I tightend the crank pully bolt. I did use new OEM GM torque to yield bolts though.
I felt more comfortable using the crank pully install tool that a guy sells on here, it's very similar to what GM shows in the factory service manual.
.
Last edited by bearcatt; Jun 21, 2010 at 06:55 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo I've have my pulley off a couple of times and each time I would flinch when I tightend the crank pully bolt. I did use new OEM GM torque to yield bolts though.
I felt more comfortable using the crank pully install tool that a guy sells on here, it's very similar to what GM shows in the factory service manual.
.
I felt more comfortable using the crank pully install tool that a guy sells on here, it's very similar to what GM shows in the factory service manual.
.
Bingo. LS1howto strikes again. I wish I had a nickel for every time someone follows that crappy procedure for installation and ruined their crank threads. Its not the ARP bolt's fault, you shredded the threads by overloading them. You can also generate a hell of a lot of torque with little force using a 40 inch breaker bar and by using the ARP bolt with minimal thread engagement sheared out the threads.
Bingo. LS1howto strikes again. I wish I had a nickel for every time someone follows that crappy procedure for installation and ruined their crank threads. Its not the ARP bolt's fault, you shredded the threads by overloading them. You can also generate a hell of a lot of torque with little force using a 40 inch breaker bar and by using the ARP bolt with minimal thread engagement sheared out the threads.
Here's the thread for the tool.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html
Hmmm here is a new one I just found... looks like something you can make. lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...0-shipped.html
I hope you get it fixed without to much hassle. Hopefully someone has a suggestion on how to get that ARP bolt out of there.
Bingo. LS1howto strikes again. I wish I had a nickel for every time someone follows that crappy procedure for installation and ruined their crank threads. Its not the ARP bolt's fault, you shredded the threads by overloading them. You can also generate a hell of a lot of torque with little force using a 40 inch breaker bar and by using the ARP bolt with minimal thread engagement sheared out the threads.
There are other things questionable on LS1howto also. One thing I can think of is the Yella Terra install write-up. ( yikes ).
.
Last edited by bearcatt; Jun 21, 2010 at 06:56 PM. Reason: SPELLING
The guys name is 618HAWK. They've gone up in price. It's a nice piece that works well however.
Here's the thread for the tool.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html
Hmmm here is a new one I just found... looks like something you can make. lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...0-shipped.html
I hope you get it fixed without to much hassle. Hopefully someone has a suggestion on how to get that ARP bolt out of there.
There are other things questionable on LS1howto also. One thing I can think of is the Yella Terra install write-up. ( yikes ).
.
Here's the thread for the tool.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html
Hmmm here is a new one I just found... looks like something you can make. lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...0-shipped.html
I hope you get it fixed without to much hassle. Hopefully someone has a suggestion on how to get that ARP bolt out of there.
There are other things questionable on LS1howto also. One thing I can think of is the Yella Terra install write-up. ( yikes ).
.
unfortunately, the only other ideas are take it to a shop. even though a forged motor sounds good about now, i'm not sure if i'm ready to drop $3500 for that. i usually have the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" mentality so that's my last resort.
more than likely gonna end up doing what JPH suggested and get it over with for now. i'll worry about it later when i need to do some bottom end work. i just miss driving my car... it's been since beginning of april
thanks, i appreciate it!
unfortunately, the only other ideas are take it to a shop. even though a forged motor sounds good about now, i'm not sure if i'm ready to drop $3500 for that. i usually have the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" mentality so that's my last resort.
more than likely gonna end up doing what JPH suggested and get it over with for now. i'll worry about it later when i need to do some bottom end work. i just miss driving my car... it's been since beginning of april
unfortunately, the only other ideas are take it to a shop. even though a forged motor sounds good about now, i'm not sure if i'm ready to drop $3500 for that. i usually have the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" mentality so that's my last resort.
more than likely gonna end up doing what JPH suggested and get it over with for now. i'll worry about it later when i need to do some bottom end work. i just miss driving my car... it's been since beginning of april
I guess plenty of drill bits.
I've spent a good amount of money and work on my car over the last couple years so I certainly can't blame you for not wanting to drop 3.5K for new shortblock, even if it's forged. Alot of the guys are going with the LS2 or
L92 6.0L and LS3 heads. The right setup can give you a nice reliable n/a 500rwhp.
Let us know how it turns out, I would be interested to know.
.
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the only time i see people breaking bolts really is when they try to use an asp bolt to seat the pulley...maybe people should stop doing that
also i think alot of the problems that happen here with bolts breaking is from like OP said the pulley being cocked or crooked when trying to press it on with the bolt. when i put mine on i put it on the crank snout, laid a piece of 2x4 across it and gave it a few wacks to seat it on farther on the snout and straight. then used an old TTY bolt to push the asp pulley on fully. took that out then tightened the **** out of the asp pully with their moly lube.
also i think alot of the problems that happen here with bolts breaking is from like OP said the pulley being cocked or crooked when trying to press it on with the bolt. when i put mine on i put it on the crank snout, laid a piece of 2x4 across it and gave it a few wacks to seat it on farther on the snout and straight. then used an old TTY bolt to push the asp pulley on fully. took that out then tightened the **** out of the asp pully with their moly lube.
I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???
I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.
I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!