Long story short, the bolt broke about 5 threads in so I'm gonna try using a shorter bolt and tap the front part that doesn't have threads right now.

Anyone know what size tap to use, what heilcoil to use and a bolt to match?

 

Use a 3/4-24 bolt and you should be good to go.

 

Fat chance drillin' & threadin' the crankshaft nose thread for a heli-coil, ...


Uh, ..., standard LSx crankshaft nose thread is an M16x2.0 metric thread I believe, ...

 

Wow that's crazy, wondering how that happend.




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It is, but a 3/4-24 tap fits perfectly in the front of the crank snout for tapping purposes.

 

if you're really curious... i was doing the ls1howto.com way and using the bolt to push the pulley on and i was using a 40 inch breaker bar, but i wasn't putting much force on it at all. well it got to a point where it would't budge unless i were to put a lot of force into it and the pulley clearly wasn't on all the way. i tried backing out the bolt (thinking the pulley may be going on at an angle) and i ended up snapping the bolt backing it out.

i'm just hoping i didn't mess up the transmission either since i had it in 5th gear when i accomplished what few have managed to do, break an arp crank bolt.

 

is the "yep" agreeing with pontiacfan?

should i bother with a heli-coil? or just tap and bolt?

 

I've had my pulley off a couple of times and each time I would flinch when I tightend the crank pully bolt. I did use new OEM GM torque to yield bolts though.

I felt more comfortable using the crank pully install tool that a guy sells on here, it's very similar to what GM shows in the factory service manual.



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for round 2 i'm DEFINITELY looking at getting an install tool. you happen to remember the guys name?

 

Bingo. LS1howto strikes again. I wish I had a nickel for every time someone follows that crappy procedure for installation and ruined their crank threads. Its not the ARP bolt's fault, you shredded the threads by overloading them. You can also generate a hell of a lot of torque with little force using a 40 inch breaker bar and by using the ARP bolt with minimal thread engagement sheared out the threads.

 

yeah... i figured it to be about 75lbs at the end to reach the 250 ft/lbs for the arp bolt so i was being careful, BUT too little too late. i'm just surprised the bolt broke. most others have shredded the threads in their crank and the bolt was fine. hell... i've even eaten up 2 drill bits trying to drill it out and i just gave up.

 

The guys name is 618HAWK. They've gone up in price. It's a nice piece that works well however.

Here's the thread for the tool.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html


Hmmm here is a new one I just found... looks like something you can make. lol
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...0-shipped.html



I hope you get it fixed without to much hassle. Hopefully someone has a suggestion on how to get that ARP bolt out of there.





There are other things questionable on LS1howto also. One thing I can think of is the Yella Terra install write-up. ( yikes ).





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Tap and bolt! I have been there and done that with no worries!

 

thanks, i appreciate it!
unfortunately, the only other ideas are take it to a shop. even though a forged motor sounds good about now, i'm not sure if i'm ready to drop $3500 for that. i usually have the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" mentality so that's my last resort.
more than likely gonna end up doing what JPH suggested and get it over with for now. i'll worry about it later when i need to do some bottom end work. i just miss driving my car... it's been since beginning of april

 

I was mainly thinking about how to drill through that hardened ARP bolt.
I guess plenty of drill bits.

I've spent a good amount of money and work on my car over the last couple years so I certainly can't blame you for not wanting to drop 3.5K for new shortblock, even if it's forged. Alot of the guys are going with the LS2 or
L92 6.0L and LS3 heads. The right setup can give you a nice reliable n/a 500rwhp.


Let us know how it turns out, I would be interested to know.




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use a propane torch, best way to install the pulley.

 

Even on a fluid danpened pulley like a March or Fluidamper????? I understand on like a powerbond or ASP etc...

 

i have a hot air gun that goes up to like 1,000 F. i was gonna use that to heat up the pulley and then use one of the tools mentioned above to push it on.

 

the only time i see people breaking bolts really is when they try to use an asp bolt to seat the pulley...maybe people should stop doing that

also i think alot of the problems that happen here with bolts breaking is from like OP said the pulley being cocked or crooked when trying to press it on with the bolt. when i put mine on i put it on the crank snout, laid a piece of 2x4 across it and gave it a few wacks to seat it on farther on the snout and straight. then used an old TTY bolt to push the asp pulley on fully. took that out then tightened the **** out of the asp pully with their moly lube.

 

You don't need to use anything to push it on if you heat it up (in my experience anyway...). I used a propane torch on mine for maybe 30 seconds max at a relatively low setting, picked it up by the pulley end with my bare hands, and it easily slid on, and made a very positive "clank" when it bottomed out.

I imagine if you over-do it, you could burn the seal???

I haven't torqued the new bolt yet, still weighing my options.

I second the motion that ls1howto is a little dangerous, and I'm an LS noob!