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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:00 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Well damn Ima have to go fiddle with the one in the kitchen just to see. Just hope that no ones old lady catches you with car parts in her Whirlpool
The "Warm" setting is usually between 150 and 175.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by FMX05
The "Warm" setting is usually between 150 and 175.
^Suzy homemaker has spoken! lol just kidding

was just looking at your sig whats your 1/8th mile time in those 1/4 runs? just curious thinking of installing the 6 speed swap i have sitting in the garage over my stalled auto.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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You won't be cutting those 1.62 60s with that 6 speed unless your have a 9 inch, DS, torque arm and suspension and a slick.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 01:50 AM
  #44  
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All thread people, all thread. Get about a dozen thick washers, the correct size nut and some antiseeze.

I still don't get why people us the old bolt to pull it on. OP this is not aimed at you but some of the advice that is given on this board.

Why they don't make a sticky about how not to f$%^ your crankshaft up is beyond me.

Last edited by LilJayV10; Dec 28, 2010 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #45  
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Agreed

Im sick of reading "I used this method and it worked for me!" Well you did it the wrong way and got lucky

Crank threads, front main seal, thrust bearings are all in danger when not using the proper install tool. Its not like the tool is incredibly expensive either! $45 in the classifieds, heck you can make one yourself for about $8 using a threaded rod, a nut and two washers
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
All thread people, all thread. Get about a dozen this washers, the correct size nut and some antiseeze.

I still don't get why people us the old bolt to pull it on. OP this is not aimed at you but some of the advice that is given on this board.

Why they don't make a sticky about how not to f$%^ your crankshaft up is beyond me.
I agree. I gave up answering these threads. The hub of the damper (pulley) has a specific interference fit. The rubber has a specific design required for its primary purpose, damping the harmonics. There are specific reasons why the GM service manual goes through a number of steps for installation, all seem to be ignored until a crisis happens. LS1howto doesn't help either, that site has caused more screwed up crankshafts then I can count.
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