OK where do I start?

Installed turbo last weekend and all was fine till the other night I had blowby and it popped the dipstick out and sprayed oil all over pass side of engine compartment. OK so, the engine still sounds fine and I put a new PCV in and I may put a checkvalve in. Dont mention venting, I already know about it and this post is more about whats below........

So I ran the car tonight and it was missing a lot! Misfires mostly on cylinders 3, 5, and 7. Mostly the cylinders on the drivers side. I wonder if it could be the oil that got by when I had the blowby? I might have oily plugs, I dont know? Could that cause the misfires? The misfire history is in the thousands for 3 and 5. But this is only when the car idles. When I am driving the misfire history goes way down into the hundreds(around 200's).

Codes thrown:
P0140: HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank1 Sensor 2
P0160: HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank2 Sensor 2
PO300: Engine Misfire Detected
P0748: Pressure control solenoid circuit - electrical

There are two sets of the set above. One is H and one is P, not sure what the diff is?

Note that none of these codes existed before the blowby incident that day.

I didnt come near to opening the car up tonight but I can say I had 0 knock and LTrims looked pretty good.

Also when I drive the car now and get on it slightly(25% throttle) I hear a ticking noise. Could it be a intake leak? Manifold? Im pretty sure its not exhaust. But could an intake leak cause the misfiring? I hope I dont have ring or valve probs...

Overall the engine did seem to run a little bad at idle but during driving I couldnt really tell too much that anything was wrong....

ANy info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Try a leakdown test. I had my dipstick pop out and found that cyl 3,5,7 were all bad, the car was also running like you described. Mine may have been a little different though cause I don't have boost, seems I was running to lean.

 

What do you mean by all bad? What did you have to do to fix 'all bad'

 

This post has alot of the info and some pics on my car, I was running lean due to a tune and pistons 5 and 7 detonated to the point that I melted the ends off of them, I havent seen the insides of piston 3 yet but I suspect the ringlands/rings to be bad as it failed the leakdown test that I did on it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback/128981-who-wants-power-who-wants-integrity.html

look near the bottom for my pics.

 

Here is my original thread that is more technical

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/128078-tore-my-engine-down-found-few-things-i-do-not-like-pics-inside.html

Basically if you do a leakdown you can somewhat determine the problem without taking the engine apart. Since you have boost maybe the blowbuy was due to that and your rings/pistons are ok but I would guess that there is some chance of damage done inside.

 

It sounds like broken ringlands to me.

If that is the case you need an engine rebuild.

If there is no damage to the block you can do a light hone and forged pistons. I would also do good rod bolts.

Unfortunately you might be out another several thousand dollars.

Get a leakdown test done asap. While the motor is apart you might as well throw a cam in there as well as heads

Do me a favor with the engine idling remove the oil fill cover. Does smoke puff out sort of like a train? If it does and you have the fresh air line plugged at the T-body and have a checkvalve in you have likely killed the ringlands.

Chris

 

does the instructions call for any change in the pcv system? if it doesnt then you are putting boost right into the crankcase via the upper throttlebody hose... disconnect that from the throttlebody and see if the air goes away.

 

No the upper tbody hose is connected to a solenoid which is connected back to the valve cover vent. When under boost, that solenoid closes off the tbody hose and allow the valve covers to atmosphere.

I guess I will check leakdown/compression test.

Thanks so far for info...but more is ok too I will check for the smoke....

 

Couldnt take the oil fill cap off because thats where the oil is returned from the turbo. But I did lift up the dip stick and it does look like a good amnt of steam is coming out. Next will be compression test.

I think I may be able to afford pistons and rods, but the heads/cam will have to come later. Is this all that I need? Pistons and Rods? If so I guess I should get rods to reduce compression. If I do these things it should be safe for boost right? Given that nothing else is screwed up inside.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention the car has 36000 miles on it and has a FULL extended warranty. I MIGHT be able to use the warranty for the rebuild to stock, we will see. Decisions decisions...

 

you wont need rods. Forged (I'd recommend Diamond) Pistons and ARP rod bolts, balancing assembly rings/bearings etc.

 

OK Yes something is def wrong. Pistons, rings?

Compression Test:
#1: 150
#2: 150
#3: 60
#5: 65
#7: 85

Decided not to check 4 6 and 8 because by this point i already know the engine is fcked. Also autotap only read misfires on the above cylinders that are low.

Will post results once I determine what to do...

 

dang that sucks, multiple cylinders huh.. Good thing is that once you replace the stock stuff you motor will be more suited for boost plus you can alter you cr to your liking via the new pistons.