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pull rear cover without dropping trans?

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Old 07-01-2010, 01:54 PM
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Default pull rear cover without dropping trans?

So a buddy of mine built a lq9 to put I His Trans am. When he fired it over it had no oil pressure. I told him to be sure his front and rear oil galley plugs were in. He said yes he thought they were. The Guy he had tuning it gave him a basic tune and said to put 500 miles on it. I told him to make sure he had oil pressure first. He didn't. Long story short after the 500 miles he had some chatter up top that was loud. I told him to not crank it again until he pulled the covers to check. He pulled the front first since it was easier. No plug. He puts one in. Fires it upland has 70lbs at around 1100 rpm. My question is should he check the rear plug since he has that good of pressure? Also is it possible to pull the rear engine cover after sliding g the travel s back? It is just up on ramps. Can you get to the bellhousing bolts with the motor bolted In? Thanks.
Old 07-01-2010, 02:22 PM
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With that much pressure, I'd assume everything is where it needs to be. I'd always be a little leary that something else was messed up, though, and I'd be more worried that damage had already been done that would require a rebuild.
Old 07-01-2010, 03:24 PM
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wll things have hed out and the engine turns over fine etc. I know there is a possibility something could be wrong, but I'm with you about the 70lbs, I heard that if the rear one was not in then it would not show anything at all? Anyone that knows please chime in.
Old 07-01-2010, 03:37 PM
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The flexplate/flywheel has to come off the crank in order to pull the rear cover. That would mean....yuck.
Old 07-01-2010, 04:00 PM
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If the rear barbell plug was not installed, there would be very little if any pressure. I'd say it's in there & w/ 500 miles on the block, if there was to be damage it is already done, as stated above. So, why not drive it 'till she squeals for a re-build. Could be 100K miles could be 500 miles, who knows.
Old 07-01-2010, 04:05 PM
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woah.. after reading your first post.. you said he drove around 500 miles without any oil pressure??

If thats the case, i'd be tearing that engine down asap.
Old 07-01-2010, 06:09 PM
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Im at a loss as to why you would even let it idle for an extended period let alone drive it for 500 miles with no oil pressure...

Last edited by Black02SLPSS; 07-01-2010 at 06:14 PM.
Old 07-01-2010, 10:02 PM
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I'm the guy that built it, I was taking the advice of a "professional" tuner. He told me it was more than likely the sending unit and if there was no pressure, we would know it quick. Once tuned, the car stayed around 175 degrees and he firgured it was fine and to do the break in and bring it back to him. I drove it for 500 miles, got the oil changed, and it developed a chirp in the passenger side head. Poured some oil in there and it goes away. Took valve cover off to see that no oil was getting to the top of the engine. That's when I realized it must be the plugs. Took the front cover off and put in the front plug. After that cranked it back up and had good pressure. It had been sitting for about two months, so it had trouble ideling with the basic tune. No chirp. Can't afford to do a rebuild, so going to check for the rear plug and hope for the best. thanks for your input and any more is welcome. Wish me luck!
Old 07-01-2010, 11:49 PM
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Save yourself some time and don't bother pulling the trans. If that rear bar bell plunger wasn't there you would know it. You would have close to zero psi. After you put the front plug in you got 70 psi, so you're good to go. Just drive and enjoy for now. 500 miles without oil pressure = amazing she's still in one piece.
Old 07-02-2010, 12:29 AM
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Um if you dident have any oil psi for 500 miles it HAS to have a rebuild. You even mention the top end screaming. I would think everything needs to be redone.

I would think any builder that saw ZERO oil psi on the factory guage would have checked it with an manual guage before blowing it off as nothang..... Throwing money on the fire.
Old 07-03-2010, 01:09 PM
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So here's the good news! We went ahead and and primed the engine, connected everything back up, and cranked it witht hte valve covers off and after a few seconds oil was at the top of the engine. We did hear a chirping sound again, so we took the belt off and that was the source of it. So everything seems great except it wont stay running good because it needs a tune. Thanks for all of your input.
Old 07-03-2010, 02:03 PM
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Wow, got lucky on this one
Old 07-03-2010, 02:30 PM
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No doubt he got lucky, but now i am a little concerened still though. He informed me that when he drained the oil after the 500 miles, there were some extremely fine gold flakes, and a little silver , which he said he assumed was because he din't get enough oil to his springs and they are gold and silver, and it wasn't very much. i told him that he should run it just a little with some new oil, then change it again and check it, then run it maybe 250 miles and change it a third time and check it. It'll get a little expensive as far as changing oil goes, but it would be worth it those few times to see if everything is ok.
Old 07-03-2010, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by havocnmayhem2005
I'm the guy that built it, I was taking the advice of a "professional" tuner...
Originally Posted by mwg2600
...I would think any builder that saw ZERO oil psi on the factory guage would have checked it with an manual guage...
Time for a new tuner...
Old 07-06-2010, 01:30 AM
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one last question im the guy that owns the car drove it today to drop of the the final tune. at idle when the car is warm its at about 40 psi when im driving and cruising at 60 the pressure drops to just above 20. any input would be apreciated
Old 07-06-2010, 06:59 AM
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the color you saw in the oil could be bearing material. if oil wasnt getting to the top of the engine, how can it be from the springs
Old 07-06-2010, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by havocnmayhem2005
No doubt he got lucky, but now i am a little concerened still though. He informed me that when he drained the oil after the 500 miles, there were some extremely fine gold flakes, and a little silver , which he said he assumed was because he din't get enough oil to his springs and they are gold and silver, and it wasn't very much. i told him that he should run it just a little with some new oil, then change it again and check it, then run it maybe 250 miles and change it a third time and check it. It'll get a little expensive as far as changing oil goes, but it would be worth it those few times to see if everything is ok.

For your sake I hope it is not the bronze and bearing material.
Old 07-06-2010, 12:25 PM
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sounds like bearing material... not from the springs.
i spun a rod bearing in one of my toys recently... im all too familiar with that gold fleck
Old 07-06-2010, 04:23 PM
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Pull the motor out. And have the machine shop check it. If you don't this, it will cost you even more. This can cost you a crank, rods, cam and possibly lifters if you keep driving on it. Sounds like your bearing clearances have loosened up from the extra wear.

Secondly, if this happens again, PULL A VALVE COVER, takes less then 5 mins.
Old 07-06-2010, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bigp5011
one last question im the guy that owns the car drove it today to drop of the the final tune. at idle when the car is warm its at about 40 psi when im driving and cruising at 60 the pressure drops to just above 20. any input would be apreciated
If the oil pressure is dropping while you are cruising around, something is very wrong. Unless I'm way off base here, that should not be happening to an engine with a properly working oil system. The oil pressure should only go up the faster you rev the engine.



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