1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Simple question, should I get TSP to balance a 408 rotating assembly OR have a local machine shop do the work with the rotating assembly+flywheel+balancer

pros/cons of either way?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Did your local machine shop tell you that you need the flywheel and balancer to balance the crank? If so, I'd get TSP to do it. The LSx engines are all internally balanced, so the flywheel and balancer are not needed.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

No, they didn't, I just didn't know. Wanted more time for research, but I am under the gun. Thanks man!

KCS

iTrader: (20)

No problem. Balancing a crank is a simple process. Any competent shop should be capable of doing it right, but if the machine shop is doing all of the machining and assembly anyways, I'd have them balance as well. There just seems to be less room for problems when the machine shop has total control of a build.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Well my plan is to buy a used block and send it to the machine shop and then order the stroker kit balanced from TSP and assemble it myself, with the help of a few buddies.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That'll work too. How do you plan on checking clearances?

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Another question, while you're in on this thread. What all exactly would I want the machine shop to do to a used block? Hot tank it, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs, and re-hone it, but anything else for TSP 408 stroker kit?

I plan on using digital calipers and a plastigauge set. Any brand you recommend for the plastigauge?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I personally don't trust plastigauge, I trust micrometers and dial bore gauges, but plastigauge is better than nothing.

I would have them check the housing bores on the mains to make sure they're within spec, especially if you're planning on using ARP studs. If the housing bores are too loose or too tight, they may have to align hone the mains. It's probably good to do anyways, since the other machining processes are referenced off of the main bores.

With the 4" stroke crank, and 2.10" pin rods, they'll probably need to clearance the block for the rods.

They can also pin fit the rods and pistons. There usually isn't enough clearance in the pistons or rods for the pins straight from the manufacturer and I don't know if TSP addresses this in their kits or not. They can simply hone out the pin bosses in the rods and pistons to get adequate clearance, so the pins don't get locked up.

I would want the deck cut as well to set how much the piston sticks out of the hole. This can affect quench and compression ratio, and obviously how well the gasket will seal.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Good info. With all that work at the machine shop, I may be only a few hundred away from getting a new block assembled from TSP.

I definitely wanted the deck cut prior to ordering the rotating assembly as that may change which pistons I go with, as well as the head gaskets I decide to order.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I also have access to micrometers as well. Dial bore I would have to order, those are a little higher in price, haha. Shoot I would need ring compressors and piston hammer too. Man, the tools needed are always are an oversight, haha

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

For sure, people think, "oh 2k for this engine aint bad at all! Ill just throw it in myself" ...well you could, and then probably have some nasty problems, or you could go the right route and buy the proper tools needed if you dont have them already, but again, that is more $$$
Good luck with the build!

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! Hey we we're all young and naive at one point in time. When I first started shopping and looking at parts for these cars, I thought I could get a cam for $700 and $500 for a tune. HA! Ended up costing me about $3200 but that also includes parts for a 799 head swap because I broke the rocker stud on cylinder 7 exhaust. Either way though, it was a learning curve, triple your initial budget at least!

All I need between me and my buddy is a dial bore gauge, ring compressor, and ring filer.