New Melling LS1 Oil pump, part #?
#22
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Originally Posted by Talon WS6
The part number is correct M295 but the pump is not listed on Melling's web site.
I talked to melling at SEMA the pump is not higher volume but will have higher pressure out put and the front cover is made out of iron to make a tighter fit then the production GM pump.
Tom@QTP
I talked to melling at SEMA the pump is not higher volume but will have higher pressure out put and the front cover is made out of iron to make a tighter fit then the production GM pump.
Tom@QTP
How does changing the alloy make up of the front cover of the oil pump allow for a tighter fit? Also, what about the fit is being "tightened" and what is advantageous about this new fit?
#24
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Originally Posted by JS
I have a pic of it in my PRI catalog..
If I get the chance I'll upload the info and pic for u..
Tommys correct the body is made of iron,Why I dont know but they seem to think it mkes for a better pump.
If I get the chance I'll upload the info and pic for u..
Tommys correct the body is made of iron,Why I dont know but they seem to think it mkes for a better pump.
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The main body is alum.
The cover is iron. The iron cover should be less prone to warp.
The outer rotor has od chamfer on both sides so it cannot be installed wrong.
My cost on both parts was about the same.(less than 5 dollars difference)
I have not ran it yet to test pressure but i don't anticipate any major difference.
The main body is a very rough cast finish, probably only a visual thing.
Kurt
The cover is iron. The iron cover should be less prone to warp.
The outer rotor has od chamfer on both sides so it cannot be installed wrong.
My cost on both parts was about the same.(less than 5 dollars difference)
I have not ran it yet to test pressure but i don't anticipate any major difference.
The main body is a very rough cast finish, probably only a visual thing.
Kurt
#26
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Originally Posted by 427
The main body is alum.
The cover is iron. The iron cover should be less prone to warp.
The cover is iron. The iron cover should be less prone to warp.
Originally Posted by 427
The outer rotor has od chamfer on both sides so it cannot be installed wrong.
My cost on both parts was about the same.(less than 5 dollars difference)
My cost on both parts was about the same.(less than 5 dollars difference)
Originally Posted by 427
I have not ran it yet to test pressure but i don't anticipate any major difference.
The main body is a very rough cast finish, probably only a visual thing.
Kurt
The main body is a very rough cast finish, probably only a visual thing.
Kurt
Thanks for all the info.
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
What was the reasoning for implementing this. How many pumps have warped to warrant a change like that?
How can one install the oil pump wrong? It only goes on one way.
Why did you go with the pump, just to try it out since you were already in the motor?
Thanks for all the info.
How can one install the oil pump wrong? It only goes on one way.
Why did you go with the pump, just to try it out since you were already in the motor?
Thanks for all the info.
The iron front cover is machined so gear clearance can be reduced to gain a minor amount of volume, the downside is higher material cost.
The outer gear of the oilpump has a small od chamfer made to clear the tool radius in the base of the main body, if you install the gear backwards it will look fine but it will lock up on the radius and may split and cause complete failure.
We build 3 gen3 engines per week on average so we always look into new parts for better quality or less expensive alternatives.
Kurt
#28
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Originally Posted by 427
The warp is acceptable limits in manufactoring, not an in service problem.
Originally Posted by 427
The iron front cover is machined so gear clearance can be reduced to gain a minor amount of volume, the downside is higher material cost.
Originally Posted by 427
The outer gear of the oilpump has a small od chamfer made to clear the tool radius in the base of the main body, if you install the gear backwards it will look fine but it will lock up on the radius and may split and cause complete failure.
Originally Posted by 427
We build 3 gen3 engines per week on average so we always look into new parts for better quality or less expensive alternatives.
Kurt
Kurt
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#30
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Originally Posted by KHShapiro
ah, now i can see the benifet of the new style pump..
well C4VetteLS1 seems like you started a good little info gathering Thread WTG
well C4VetteLS1 seems like you started a good little info gathering Thread WTG
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well i for one would rather the peice of mind knowing that my Clearence was tighter, no warping to worry about, and although i am not a big fan of higher pressure from what i am reading in this thread it will have slightly higher Volume which is a plus in my book. I guess it will really have to come down to true numbers to see if the pump is worth anything other peice of mind. i thik it is more like putting up Eagle to Lunati, both are good but which would give you the peice of mind as a better unit?
#32
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Originally Posted by KHShapiro
well i for one would rather the peice of mind knowing that my Clearence was tighter, no warping to worry about, and although i am not a big fan of higher pressure from what i am reading in this thread it will have slightly higher Volume which is a plus in my book. I guess it will really have to come down to true numbers to see if the pump is worth anything other peice of mind. i thik it is more like putting up Eagle to Lunati, both are good but which would give you the peice of mind as a better unit?
I just don't get the reasoning of the warpage. I haven't read of one oil pump warping.
All the other things are +
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I just don't get the reasoning of the warpage. I haven't read of one oil pump warping.
Neither have i, but who says it doesnt happen. What i have read is problems regarding oil pressure and oiling in some of the other "Blue Printed" pumps
and i wonder if they might have some problems that have arose due to the reworking of the pumps
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Originally Posted by KHShapiro
Neither have i, but who says it doesnt happen. What i have read is problems regarding oil pressure and oiling in some of the other "Blue Printed" pumps
and i wonder if they might have some problems that have arose due to the reworking of the pumps
and i wonder if they might have some problems that have arose due to the reworking of the pumps
The only thing reworked in a ported pump is the inlet and outlet holes are smoothed. Noone touches the insides. Theres nothing to do in there. I have taken my stock one, ARE, and the Thunder (Katche SP?) one apart and they are all the same. ARE just shims the relief spring with 4 small washers.
Im still not convinced the need for the aftermarket pump... the only way to raise the pressure is from the spring and you can do that to a stock unit with some $.05 washers.