LS1 Carnage and 408 build up - UPDATE w/dyno sheet & video!
#41
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HA! I know it sounds much slower than before. I drove it to work today and been doing 1/2 throttle bursts up to around 3500 RPMs to try and seat the rings and it feels super torquey. A **** ton more than before! Cannot wait to see the torque curve (or flat line in this case) on this budget setup.
#44
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I would honestly at least get a proper idle tune in the engine. You don't know if that thing is running lean or rich. You may be rich at idle, but super lean at 3000 rpms. I'd get an idle tune and a tune to say 3k done so you can at least drive the thing. Then, once you feal comfortable with the miles on it, the rings seating, etc... get the full RPM range handled. Would you want something to go wrong after spending thousands of dollars and tons of hours working on something?
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I would honestly at least get a proper idle tune in the engine. You don't know if that thing is running lean or rich. You may be rich at idle, but super lean at 3000 rpms. I'd get an idle tune and a tune to say 3k done so you can at least drive the thing. Then, once you feal comfortable with the miles on it, the rings seating, etc... get the full RPM range handled. Would you want something to go wrong after spending thousands of dollars and tons of hours working on something?
#47
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As promised, here is a better video, still crappy audio due to the high decibels, but they are better. You can actually tell the difference when I close the cutout now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUZ5qtJYh4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUZ5qtJYh4
Last edited by 1SLwLS1; 07-24-2010 at 07:20 PM.
#49
Amsoil oil filter is good. Made of fiberglass media and is a step above the k&n and mobil 1.
Also, I have read about breaking in engines properly and there's a "Darwin" method here on the forums (or camaro5 forums?) that basically recommends you "drive it like you stole it" to seat the piston rings in the best possible way and break in the engine. Also early oil changes to get all the metal shards out. All you do is hard accelerations runs and hit neutral to let the car coast to a stop, let the engine cool off for a couple hours/overnight, and repeat with the acceleration runs. 50 miles each time is good. You do NOT want the engine to decel on its own when new. EVER. Look it up man, it's some very interesting stuff. I know I will do it to every single new engine I own in the future.
Also, I have read about breaking in engines properly and there's a "Darwin" method here on the forums (or camaro5 forums?) that basically recommends you "drive it like you stole it" to seat the piston rings in the best possible way and break in the engine. Also early oil changes to get all the metal shards out. All you do is hard accelerations runs and hit neutral to let the car coast to a stop, let the engine cool off for a couple hours/overnight, and repeat with the acceleration runs. 50 miles each time is good. You do NOT want the engine to decel on its own when new. EVER. Look it up man, it's some very interesting stuff. I know I will do it to every single new engine I own in the future.
#50
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Amsoil oil filter is good. Made of fiberglass media and is a step above the k&n and mobil 1.
Also, I have read about breaking in engines properly and there's a "Darwin" method here on the forums (or camaro5 forums?) that basically recommends you "drive it like you stole it" to seat the piston rings in the best possible way and break in the engine. Also early oil changes to get all the metal shards out. All you do is hard accelerations runs and hit neutral to let the car coast to a stop, let the engine cool off for a couple hours/overnight, and repeat with the acceleration runs. 50 miles each time is good. You do NOT want the engine to decel on its own when new. EVER. Look it up man, it's some very interesting stuff. I know I will do it to every single new engine I own in the future.
Also, I have read about breaking in engines properly and there's a "Darwin" method here on the forums (or camaro5 forums?) that basically recommends you "drive it like you stole it" to seat the piston rings in the best possible way and break in the engine. Also early oil changes to get all the metal shards out. All you do is hard accelerations runs and hit neutral to let the car coast to a stop, let the engine cool off for a couple hours/overnight, and repeat with the acceleration runs. 50 miles each time is good. You do NOT want the engine to decel on its own when new. EVER. Look it up man, it's some very interesting stuff. I know I will do it to every single new engine I own in the future.
Here are the results, fuggin torque monster!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98R-dbw0huU
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What's crazy is what I was used to and going to the complete other side of the spectrum. When I had my stock shortblock, I would floor it all low RPM in 1st, say at like 1500-2000, and it would pull like stock until 4K then it would pull like a freight train, but now, if I floor it from 2K, son of a bitch just goes. Before you know it, you're at the limiter switching to second. I definitely appreciate the smaller cam/displacement ratio now. Something like a 229/232 in a 346.
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Been taking it to the red everytime she fires! I want to make sure these rings seat nicely and contain most of the compression I fought to achieve.
The torque mountain is a fun alternative to the top end only 346
The torque mountain is a fun alternative to the top end only 346
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I do that with a new engine, old engine, any engine. I am just not a fan of downshifting.
Buddy of mine drove my car on an industrial road when I first got the T/A. He would wind it up to around 5500 in first or second and then just let off the gas without touching the clutch. Needless to say, his driving privileges were revoked after that, haha.
Buddy of mine drove my car on an industrial road when I first got the T/A. He would wind it up to around 5500 in first or second and then just let off the gas without touching the clutch. Needless to say, his driving privileges were revoked after that, haha.