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LS1 Rod bearing replacement

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Old 07-23-2010, 04:27 PM
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Default LS1 Rod bearing replacement

I am going to freshin up my bottom end, since its out of the car. What is the difference between A-Series Aluminum Bearings and Overplated Copper-Lead Alloy? is one better then the other?

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Old 07-24-2010, 09:44 AM
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NO one here has replaced their rod bolts?
Old 07-24-2010, 12:34 PM
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I don't think either is better than the other, it just depends on the application. The aluminum bearing is more for light duty (moderate power) and is basically an OE replacement for what comes in these engines from the factory. The other, usually known as a trimetal bearing, is more suited for more powerful or race oriented engines.
Old 07-24-2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
I don't think either is better than the other, it just depends on the application. The aluminum bearing is more for light duty (moderate power) and is basically an OE replacement for what comes in these engines from the factory. The other, usually known as a trimetal bearing, is more suited for more powerful or race oriented engines.
I got the Aluminum ones since that's the Auto parts had. I noticed when I replaced them, the bearing looks identical. I'm sure they will be fine. Anyone know the torque specs for ARP rod bolts, P/N is 234-6301.

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Old 07-24-2010, 10:28 PM
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http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html
Old 07-25-2010, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
Thanks!!
Old 07-26-2010, 06:38 AM
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dont forget to resize your rods with the ARP bolts...
Old 07-26-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
dont forget to resize your rods with the ARP bolts...
Please explain?
Old 07-26-2010, 08:16 PM
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the rods need to be resized when installing ARP olts. also, you have to run oversized bearings.

do a search on the topic. you will find the crowd split 50/50 about resizing and throwing them in and going. obviously, you can see where i stand on the matter.
Old 07-26-2010, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
the rods need to be resized when installing ARP olts. also, you have to run oversized bearings.

do a search on the topic. you will find the crowd split 50/50 about resizing and throwing them in and going. obviously, you can see where i stand on the matter.
I understand what you are saying. This motor has about 40k millage and I will MIC the crank and check the clearances with plastic gauge, if with in specs I should be ok?
Old 07-26-2010, 09:34 PM
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Yea, the cracked cap process is SUPPOSED to ensure proper alignment of the caps regardless of the bolts holding it together. Allegedly gone are the days where rod cap alignment is determined by the rod bolts mandating resizing the rods.

Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.

Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
Old 07-26-2010, 09:46 PM
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Thanks for the help guys.
Old 07-27-2010, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Awake455
Yea, the cracked cap process is SUPPOSED to ensure proper alignment of the caps regardless of the bolts holding it together. Allegedly gone are the days where rod cap alignment is determined by the rod bolts mandating resizing the rods.

Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.

Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
same here. my rods were .003 o-O-r when i measured them with the ARP bolts. then again some have measured theirs and they were perfectly in spec.
Old 07-29-2010, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
same here. my rods were .003 o-O-r when i measured them with the ARP bolts. then again some have measured theirs and they were perfectly in spec.
The worst I've seen was about .0035" out-of-round, and thats with the housing already .0007" looser than the specs allow.

It all comes down to risk. Can it work? Sure. Is it worth a blown up engine for a few hundred RPM? Well.........
Old 07-29-2010, 03:28 PM
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I have katech and put in clevite p series bearings in mine
Old 10-08-2015, 02:01 PM
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For future searches- another good read on bearings. This brakes down the "why" for the use of harder bearings-and the pro's and con's of each bearing. The "highest performance" bearing may not be the best option in all cases.

http://kingbearings.com/files/Engine..._Materials.pdf
Old 10-10-2015, 04:04 PM
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According to ARP , the best way to "torque" at least Their bolts is to use a stretch gauge , not to torque using a torque ratchet . It can be time consuming to resize the rod big ends but I would say worth the time and make sure the rest of it is right or ????????????? Good luck



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