LS1 Rod bearing replacement
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LS1 Rod bearing replacement
I am going to freshin up my bottom end, since its out of the car. What is the difference between A-Series Aluminum Bearings and Overplated Copper-Lead Alloy? is one better then the other?
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I don't think either is better than the other, it just depends on the application. The aluminum bearing is more for light duty (moderate power) and is basically an OE replacement for what comes in these engines from the factory. The other, usually known as a trimetal bearing, is more suited for more powerful or race oriented engines.
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I don't think either is better than the other, it just depends on the application. The aluminum bearing is more for light duty (moderate power) and is basically an OE replacement for what comes in these engines from the factory. The other, usually known as a trimetal bearing, is more suited for more powerful or race oriented engines.
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I understand what you are saying. This motor has about 40k millage and I will MIC the crank and check the clearances with plastic gauge, if with in specs I should be ok?
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Yea, the cracked cap process is SUPPOSED to ensure proper alignment of the caps regardless of the bolts holding it together. Allegedly gone are the days where rod cap alignment is determined by the rod bolts mandating resizing the rods.
Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.
Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.
Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
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Yea, the cracked cap process is SUPPOSED to ensure proper alignment of the caps regardless of the bolts holding it together. Allegedly gone are the days where rod cap alignment is determined by the rod bolts mandating resizing the rods.
Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.
Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
Do you trust them to still be true and not out of round after replacing the rod bolts? For me careful measuring showed some deformation on some rods, not on others. Within specs? On the 8 that I have measured yes...but is it good enough for me to trust on an engine I beat on so much? Nope.
Your results may vary. I get insanely picky when inside my engines.
#16
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For future searches- another good read on bearings. This brakes down the "why" for the use of harder bearings-and the pro's and con's of each bearing. The "highest performance" bearing may not be the best option in all cases.
http://kingbearings.com/files/Engine..._Materials.pdf
http://kingbearings.com/files/Engine..._Materials.pdf
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According to ARP , the best way to "torque" at least Their bolts is to use a stretch gauge , not to torque using a torque ratchet . It can be time consuming to resize the rod big ends but I would say worth the time and make sure the rest of it is right or ????????????? Good luck