How to diagnose a failing lifter(s)
08-16-2010, 09:12 AM
#41
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I peeked under the v/c's but didnt see any obvious dings or scratch marks.. I cant say for sure if mine are coming in contact for sure, but If so, I would think mine would make noise at idle as well. Mine doesnt starting acting up until you slowly rev it up to 15-2000 RPM and hold in there.. BTW - new LS7 lifters and trays in yesterday, should be starting back up in the next day or so - here's for finger crossing!
Last edited by Racinjason424; 08-16-2010 at 09:20 AM.
08-17-2010, 12:24 PM
#45
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Ha-ha! The darn rope kept breaking!! No, I should fire it up tonight.. I got the top of the motor put back together last night.. Just have to slap on the exhaust and add coolant... I'm not super religous, but I'm praying to the BIG man that it runs good and no V/T rattle!!!!!
08-17-2010, 06:34 PM
#46
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Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh! We'll guys, I'm sorry to report that the new LS7 lifters did not solve my problem..
I used 7.400's with 1.5 turns to 22 ft-lbs. I still cant figure out why, but no matter what length pushrods I tried #2 & #3 exhaust is 1/2-3/4 turn more than the rest to 22 ft-lbs?? That has me stumpped..
Sounds good at idle - no rocker noise at all, but rev it up to 18-1900 and hold it and the intermitten clatter is still there on the passenger side.. 55-60 oil psi at idle & 90-100 and 5k.. rap it up to 3-5K it sounds great too.
I dont know what to do know.. I'm tired of throwing time and money at it! I think I might need professional help..?? I will try and post a video tomorrow and see if anybody has any ideas.. Thanks guys - Jason.
I used 7.400's with 1.5 turns to 22 ft-lbs. I still cant figure out why, but no matter what length pushrods I tried #2 & #3 exhaust is 1/2-3/4 turn more than the rest to 22 ft-lbs?? That has me stumpped.. Sounds good at idle - no rocker noise at all, but rev it up to 18-1900 and hold it and the intermitten clatter is still there on the passenger side.. 55-60 oil psi at idle & 90-100 and 5k.. rap it up to 3-5K it sounds great too.
I dont know what to do know.. I'm tired of throwing time and money at it! I think I might need professional help..?? I will try and post a video tomorrow and see if anybody has any ideas.. Thanks guys - Jason.
08-17-2010, 07:26 PM
#48
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Hard to do by myself, but heres what I got.. I'll try and get a better one tomorrow after I get a helper over here to hold the camera..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLE7s4Kd5r8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLE7s4Kd5r8
08-17-2010, 07:31 PM
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Did this clear up a hard to diagnose intermitten clatter for you? If so, what is the approx. cost for the upgrade and what is the process? Send to comp? Thanks - Jason!
08-17-2010, 07:41 PM
#50
The Comp Cams Trunion upgrade itself is about $130-140 depending on where you find it. You can either send them in somewhere to have them done, probably about $75-80 in labor depending on the shop, or you can get an arbor press ($40-45ish) from Harbor freight and do it yourself. There are a couple threads on tech where guys used different methods etc.
If your looking for a sponsor to send them to, the only one I know off the top of my head is Lashway Motorsports because he has a thread about it.
08-17-2010, 07:46 PM
#51
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I personally am not having valvetrain issue that I think is abnormal, just the slight sewing machine sound but very faint as it should be. The comp cams trunion upgrade is, IMO and many many others, including professionals, the best upgrade for rockers on the LS1's. Some say Scorpion brand (notorious in Mustang crowd) rockers are bad *** and they are very quiet, but they are about $375.
The Comp Cams Trunion upgrade itself is about $130-140 depending on where you find it. You can either send them in somewhere to have them done, probably about $75-80 in labor depending on the shop, or you can get an arbor press ($40-45ish) from Harbor freight and do it yourself. There are a couple threads on tech where guys used different methods etc.
If your looking for a sponsor to send them to, the only one I know off the top of my head is Lashway Motorsports because he has a thread about it.
The Comp Cams Trunion upgrade itself is about $130-140 depending on where you find it. You can either send them in somewhere to have them done, probably about $75-80 in labor depending on the shop, or you can get an arbor press ($40-45ish) from Harbor freight and do it yourself. There are a couple threads on tech where guys used different methods etc.
If your looking for a sponsor to send them to, the only one I know off the top of my head is Lashway Motorsports because he has a thread about it.
08-17-2010, 07:53 PM
#52
08-17-2010, 08:24 PM
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it really is and it is a PROVEN upgrade as well. WS6store price matches I know for sure, and their shipping time is insanely quick. There are other sponsors that price match too so just look around and find the best deal and go from there, good luck you'll get it figured out!
08-17-2010, 08:25 PM
#54
Wonder if it is a rocker... Only thing that is not bran-*** new (other than short block with 15k on it).. New heads, new valves, new springs, new cam, new lifters, new push rods, old rockers.. Wonder if I switched rockers from one side to the other if the noise would follow?? Wonder if a bad/ worn rocker would allow for my funny torque readings on exhaust #2 & #3?? Hmmm..
08-18-2010, 07:43 AM
#57
Thats the only thing left besides exhaust leak, and from this thread, I would think you're more than experienced enough to properly identify that. Really weird though, I would of figured that you would notice some play in the rocker if they are making noise.
As far as the video goes, I cannot hear anything with the exhaust as loud as it is. Do you have a cutout or anything you could close? I know you said you were going to get a helper, damned drive-by-wire TBs.
As far as the video goes, I cannot hear anything with the exhaust as loud as it is. Do you have a cutout or anything you could close? I know you said you were going to get a helper, damned drive-by-wire TBs.
08-18-2010, 07:55 AM
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Thats the only thing left besides exhaust leak, and from this thread, I would think you're more than experienced enough to properly identify that. Really weird though, I would of figured that you would notice some play in the rocker if they are making noise.
As far as the video goes, I cannot hear anything with the exhaust as loud as it is. Do you have a cutout or anything you could close? I know you said you were going to get a helper, damned drive-by-wire TBs.
As far as the video goes, I cannot hear anything with the exhaust as loud as it is. Do you have a cutout or anything you could close? I know you said you were going to get a helper, damned drive-by-wire TBs.
The motor is running through full exhaust, but it might sound louder being inside the barn. I will try to make a better vid tonight with the car pulled outside..
08-18-2010, 05:55 PM
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What is your oil pressure reading? and is it flucating at all when making the lifter noise. We have seen and fixed this type of noise by replacing the oil pump oring caused by aeration of the oil due from warpped oring (like a engine or vehicle sitting up for awhile) or from being cut.
I have had multiple cams and pushrods set ups in my truck and have found most of my light valve train noise was caused by too much preload/pushrods too long. But nothing like yours, your preload seems fine.
Hang in there
I have had multiple cams and pushrods set ups in my truck and have found most of my light valve train noise was caused by too much preload/pushrods too long. But nothing like yours, your preload seems fine.
Hang in there
08-18-2010, 07:29 PM
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What is your oil pressure reading? and is it flucating at all when making the lifter noise. We have seen and fixed this type of noise by replacing the oil pump oring caused by aeration of the oil due from warpped oring (like a engine or vehicle sitting up for awhile) or from being cut.
I have had multiple cams and pushrods set ups in my truck and have found most of my light valve train noise was caused by too much preload/pushrods too long. But nothing like yours, your preload seems fine.
Hang in there
I have had multiple cams and pushrods set ups in my truck and have found most of my light valve train noise was caused by too much preload/pushrods too long. But nothing like yours, your preload seems fine.
Hang in there
As far as pushrods go, I used Shawn at Thunders technique of 1-1/4 - 1-3/4 turns to 22 ft-lbs from zero lash and I got 1-3/8 - 1-5/8 turns with my new LS7 lifterss and 7.400 push rods -seems good right? I checked tonight with my p/r checker and I got 9.75 turns intake and 9.5 turns exhaust on #1, which equates to 7.363 & 7.350" with .075" pre-load added respectively... 7.350's to 7.400's is a big difference! I'm not sure to use Shawn's method, or trust the p/r checker? If the checker is right, then I am setting at close to.125" pre-load with the 7.400's! I also swapped the rockers from right to left tonight to make sure it wasn't a bad rocker causing the noise on the passenger side, but it didnt matter one bit.. Noise still seems to be on the pass. side. I will post a new video tonight - hopefully it turned out better being outside rather the pole barn!! Thanks again guys for listening and all you help and advise. You guys are whats keeping me going!!!