6.0 4x4 Truck Cam Selection
08-19-2010, 11:28 AM
#22
With you going to a 6.0 with the larger cam your stall is going to feel even larger then it is right now. If you went with a larger converter it is only going to flash even higher because of your gear and tire size. A 220/224 will not need a huge converter, and being that you have a 4x4 truck you have a lot of mass to get going. I think that large of a converter would make the truck crappy to drive.
08-20-2010, 09:38 AM
#24
It was my intention to mill the heads .035 and run .040 Cometic gasket and end up with close to 11:1 compression. But I've read too many occurances of the Cometic gaskets leaking water. It's simply not worth another .2 compression to chance that. With that in mind, I'm now just going to go with GM gaskets. I should still be close to 10.7:1.
I pick up the shortblock tomorrow. I'll be decarboning the pistons, and giving it a general cleanup. I also plan on pulling one main cap and one rod cap. Which ones should I pull? Any concerns with disturbing things? I understand I'll need to reassemble with new rod bolts. Are the main bolts torque to yield as well?
I pick up the shortblock tomorrow. I'll be decarboning the pistons, and giving it a general cleanup. I also plan on pulling one main cap and one rod cap. Which ones should I pull? Any concerns with disturbing things? I understand I'll need to reassemble with new rod bolts. Are the main bolts torque to yield as well?
08-20-2010, 10:31 AM
#25
If it is a running motor you could pull a random main cap to inspect. If its not running I would personally want to pull them all just for piece of mind. You can technically reuse the main bolts, they are torque by angle not torque to yield. We prefer to put main bolts that haven't been run back in just to be sure there would be no problem. When putting the mains back in both inner and outer go to 16 ft/lbs and then 80 degrees on the inner bolts and 53 degrees on the outer.
08-23-2010, 03:07 PM
#27
You can technically reuse the main bolts, they are torque by angle not torque to yield. We prefer to put main bolts that haven't been run back in just to be sure there would be no problem. When putting the mains back in both inner and outer go to 16 ft/lbs and then 80 degrees on the inner bolts and 53 degrees on the outer.
08-30-2010, 07:23 PM
#28
I've got everything order for this 6.0 build and hope to start assembly next Monday. Here's the catch. My used cam showed up today. I called Comp Cams and got the details on it. It is 220/224 .581/.581 112 LSA as advertised. I also found out it has XE-r lobes. My concern is that it is a straight up 112 LSA, with no advance ground in. Should I be looking for an adjustable timing set so that I can install it advanced +2 or +4. What would be best for my setup? I am interested in max HP, but I'm more interested in low and mid torque. I plan on shifting no higher than 6,200.
08-31-2010, 03:38 PM
#29
If your engine builder says to get new ones I would go ahead and grab some new ones. We always try and put a fresh set in when doing our motors. The torque on the side bolts is at 18ft/lbs. I would not recommend advancing the cam any because that will kill clearance. With the heads milled as much as you have said, I would want to maintain as much clearance as possible.
