Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Forged Piston to bore clearance?

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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #61  
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Wow! That shop really screwed you over good
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:29 PM
  #62  
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Do you have a bill of parts from this engine? That is the easiest way to tell what went wrong if the parts do not match up.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #63  
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That bearing is damaged from dirt, I personally think the engine was not properly cleaned before it was built. Look at the marks on the pistons, thats from dirt.

You might want to have the owner of the machine shopp look at this thread. Might help if they are stand up kind of people.

This is why if i need machine work done I ask LOTS of questions about how back logged the shop is on work. If there isn't a two week wait I move on, good machine shops are always busy.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #64  
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I'd definitely go over everyone's head and go straight to the owner, much easier and much more clear cut. If he's a genuine guy, he will fix the wrong, if not, it's time to get ugly.

Whoever built that motor knew what they were doing, and they knew what catastrophic failure it would lead to. That's got to be a crime of some sort.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
Do you have a bill of parts from this engine? That is the easiest way to tell what went wrong if the parts do not match up.
I do have a printout but it does not have PNs. Just the basic nomenclature of the parts and brand.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #66  
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ok, can you send that to me or type it in email? I can go over it and see what they did possibly. Its a start at least.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #67  
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Uh I can just tell you lol.
Callies stroker crank
Callies ls1 rods
Mahle -4cc forged pistons
Moly plasma rings
Clevite h chamferred bearings

Balancing
Torque plate hone
Assembly
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:46 PM
  #68  
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I see. Looks like a normal plain jane build. See, they did not even charge to mess up your build. Seem like nice guys!

This may seem unrelated, but how far do the pistons stick out of the bore?
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:57 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
I see. Looks like a normal plain jane build. See, they did not even charge to mess up your build. Seem like nice guys!

This may seem unrelated, but how far do the pistons stick out of the bore?
I have not measured that yet, but I can tell you they are close. If they stick out at all it is very little.
Some more info on the parts-Callies compstar 4.0 stroke crank, Callies compstar h beam 6.125 rods, and the mahle pistons and rings.
The total was around $3200 for parts, labor, and machine work. Thanks for your help John.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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I was just curious as to how far they stick out. They will normally be between zero deck and .010 or so.

Its a regular build, it just seems like they did not use the correct piston to bore clearance or the pistons themselves may have problems. If you send them off to mahle, then that will tell you right away.

Let us know what you find out.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Will do John thanks for all your help!
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 04:01 PM
  #72  
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What was out come of all this?
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 04:42 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
What was out come of all this?
+1

What was the outcome of this ordeal and do you have the name of the shop for reference?
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 12:34 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
What was out come of all this?
Wow old thread!!! So here is what went down. After many phone calls and emails back and forth with the place that did this "PERFORMANCE PLUS" Machine shop in Albuquerque NM, the owner would NOT cover my costs and labor fee's until he was able to inspect the parts himself. Which was impossible because I was stationed in San Diego. So I had to bite the bullet and do the job myself. So I asked around and ended up taking the engine to "MACHINE TECH" in Oceanside CA. Told Monte the owner what was going on and he right away whipped out his dial bore gauge, measured the bores and pistons, and without hesitation knew that whoever had built it the first time had fucked me big time. The #8 hole was the worst measuring at 3.912". The pistons are for a 3.905" bore but physically measure about 3.900"-3.901" giving me about .012" PTB clearance. And then the cherry on top was after closer inspection Monte found that they neglected to clearance the bottom of the cylinders for the added stroke too! So the rod bolts clearanced themselves. So now I had to hunt down another LS1 block, and found a stock shortblock on CL for $600. Monte worked his magic on this new block, torque plate honing, stroke clearancing, align hone, decking, new ARP main studs, hellfire rings, callies coated bearings, and new cam bearings. I assembled the shortblock myself which I will always do from here on out. Then this shortblock sat for a year until I got discharged from the Corps, and moved back home.

I then built this car with the fresh 383 from Machine Tech.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...me-tx2k12.html

It made 936rwhp on 19psi with a T4 PT88

Won TX2K12 street car class with a 9.20@155mph

Made #1 spot on the NM KOTS List.

Blew up a Comp Turbo....twice. lol

And did continual work on the street for 3 SEASONS STRAIGHT ALL ON THE SAME SHORTBLOCK NEVER CRACKED OPEN ONCE!!!!



Moral of the story....Trust no one to do something critical that you can do yourself. And if you can't do it yourself, TRUST BUT VERIFY THEIR WORK!!!!

Thank you and goodnight lol
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