Yes, I've seen you claim this cam is old and outdated in multiple threads. As said, I'm just showing the OP another choice for a cam to keep his options open.. I enjoy it, and have surprised a few TSP cam'd cars. I understand other similar cams can squeeze out a few more HPs.. FWIW, however, I will probably run a custom EPS when I get some 243 heads..

 

Well, I wasn't trying to come off abrasive towards this cam. I am really not against running it. Its a pretty proven grind even from years ago. I too am hoping to go with an EPS here soon, when time/money permit.

 

get headers if you can,and delete the cats.auto or manual?rear gears?a tr224, or tsp 224r cam kit,recommend a EPS cam.

 

I can't delete cats, have emissions up here, and I don't want to punch them. I went with a TR224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA 918 springs and 740 hardeneed pushrods package. The ls6 intake woke the car up a little, hopefully the cam will pull some more potential out of it. And I have an M6, someone asked.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Glad to hear it. I was running TSPs 224R with a lid, ported TB, stock manifolds/cats, and a few bolt ons. Made 350/352 through a stalled auto.

 

No one ever follows up on these posts after they do the work so I thought I would... I went ahead with the tr224/224 .563/ .563 114 LSA with the comp 918 springs and the comp hardened pushrods. Did the ls6 intake swap as previously stated. The car is def a little stronger in mid to high range and probably even a little down low. I'm not overly impressed though, however, if it picked up 30-35 hp that's 10%, and it feels about 10-15% stronger, so maybe it's dead on. Over stock i'd say 15% max after doing the ls6 intake and the cam.

I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response..... If i roll on it at 1500 rpm in first gear it doesn't light up the tires and I'm only running 245's on the rear. It didn't before either though so can't really fault it there. I'm used to my old 5.0 cammed which if I rolled on it in first gear would just step out and spin them all day.

I was a little concerned I was missing a cylinder (coil pack wire bent or something) when I first ran it because I expected so much more. But I plugged the egr harness back in (egr canister just sitting in the engine bay not hooked up to intake or exaust and exaust blocked off) and reset the pcm and no codes so I guess i'm not missing one..... I guess i'll have to check my timing and see if I could be off a tooth but there is really no way that happened because I spent about 20 minutes making 100% sure it was dead on.

I'm thinking about going to a throttle body (I know everyone says to port it and maybe i will) and then a lid, hopefully this will wake up the throttle response, it just seems to take FOREVER to get up in rpms, and really if it can't move the air I suppose that could be the core of my problem right there.

As far as drivability and sound, I would probably never know the car was cammed, it drives exactly the same as stock except that it stays up in rpms longer if you push in the clutch at say 4k and drift (like maybe a half a second or so). The car maybe maybe maybe sounds a tiny bit cammed but it's not lopey or really noticable unless you really reallllly listen. Maybe that will be remedied with the catback.

all in all, for a dd with a little pep i'd go with this cam again. I don't think you're going to see night and day differences though unless you, possibly, do the throttle body and lid, and I'll let you guys know how that works out when I do it.

If anyone else has had this experience and figured out where the bottleneck was let me know, but I'm guessing it's the lid and possibly the tb.... hoping anyway!

 

Do you have a tune on the car? You will get a little more out of the car with a good tune if you don't have one.

 

Thanks for coming back and posting your results and impressions. I too am reading all the cam threads now and getting ready to do mine (I gave up on ever investing the $ in heads until I eventually do a bottom up rebuild in another 100K miles :-).

You said 2 yrs ago I did LTs, 4.11gears and ported TB all at the same time, but I think the ported TB really made a big difference in throttle response. My little county doesn't do emissions checks, but you might check into the CARB certified mid-LT headers available nowadays (like JBL).

Here's the clip I edited together showing my b4 and after throttle response on the dyno. It's especially noticeable in 4th gear to redline. (my HP went from 330 stock w/catback, to 345 w/ lt headers) I'm hoping to get near 400rwhp with a cam on this DD setup.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aplebel/...03965215721202

Good luck with your finishing touches.
Paul

 

Sorry, those are speakers hahaha. I meant JBA ;-)

 

thats why I recommended a eps grind as did others... You would of noticed a night and day difference in power and kept the driveability. The tr224 is a great cam, but there are better options now. 90% of all threads about the tr224 end up going with something different in the end it seems. stock lid and tb is KILLING you aswell!! Get a slp lid and go with a ported stock tb. No point in spending any money on a bigger tb unless you get a fast intake! If you plan on getting a fast, go ahead and get a ftp 90+mm lid and tb instead...

Edit*

Just wanted to add the power gain from the eps is not the only benifit either. Search eps and you will see that the eps lobe design is very easy on springs and has alot less valvetrain noise compared to other lobes. No I have no actual experience with a eps cam, but I have been researching different ls cams for a year or so now lol. If I ever pull the trigger, they will most likely get my business from what results I have seen. Simply because I want a street friendly setup that does not eat up springs... not to mention QUIETER valvetrain operation... imo this is just as important as the gains.

 

No tune on the car, but it really doesn't seem to need one, and shops up here are quoting me 800+. IMO it's not worth that much money for 10 hp when I'm having no drivability issues whatsoever.

As far as the other cams, so many were recommended, I went with one a local shop I knew recommended because it mirrored several recom's I got here.

I really don't understand the "porting" of the throttle body and why that works but everyone says it does. I mean, I know what it is, but your not increasing the diameter at the blade so why does it make any difference?

And i'm with you 100% on the slp lid, gonna shoot for that, probably when i get paid this weekend.

Also, anyone ever cut a hole in the sleek beak hood on either side of where the hood catch is? It seems if you were to cut a hole on either side and put a tube in each one so that air shot straight through, then put foam around your slip lid opening so that it "sealed" against that, that you would have a better cold air intake system then the "FRA". I can't find anyone who's done this though.

 

the point of porting the stock tb is to remove the hump in front of the blade... that increases the inside diameter to match what the blade is.

 

did no realize there was a hump! I'll take a closer look tonight, thanks!

 

you may not want to hear it but as far as bottleneck with that cam i would say is your stock manifolds.

 

I'm not a mechanic. From what I've read here, the reason for TB porting, is to smooth out turbulent intake airflow, which then increases the air volume and throttle response. This is why CNC porting, likened to dimples on a golf ball, gets better results than old school TB polishing.

I had mine done by RevExtreme. Quick turn around, send them yours they send you same day a CNC ported one.

Sorry, I had pics of mine but can't find them.

 

I do not mean there is a big hump in the path of the throttle body... Im talking about the transition area. Porting that and smoothing down the ridges for the iac helps smooth out flow. The bump stop mod helps the blade open all the way too.

 

I think alot of the throttle response problems will be better with a tune or even a mail order tune if you haven't got the cash.
If its running rich or lean its going to be costing you power and effecting your fuel economy.

 

I ported on the TB, didn't help much, I also noticed the throttle stop when i was doing it and made that so it opened fully. I would think those manifolds flow pretty well, most people I know who have gotten long tubes have reported little to no sop difference, but, I personally have no experience with it on an LS1.

I have to figure out something.... it feels strong but not nearly as strong as it should.... I can't even turn the wheels with 245's even if stomped at like 2500-3000 rpm. I guess i will have to try the tune, just sucks because if it doesn't work and I have to add more mods I'll need a new tune! Anyone else think the headers are my big bottleneck???

 

you can get a mail order tune from FROST for $150.do headers if you can.

 

definately get a tune and headers! My car in sig blows the (315-35-17 sumi's) off if I stomp it from that rpm with only boltons. I have not tracked it yet, but I consistently turn 12.6-8's on the g-tech, **** bagging the tires to 50mph. I was planning on making a trip to the track tonight for the final friday night race, but had to work late .