ls1 cam / intake only... maybe a catback
08-30-2010, 11:22 PM
#21
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Yes, I've seen you claim this cam is old and outdated in multiple threads. As said, I'm just showing the OP another choice for a cam to keep his options open.. I enjoy it, and have surprised a few TSP cam'd cars. I understand other similar cams can squeeze out a few more HPs.. FWIW, however, I will probably run a custom EPS when I get some 243 heads..
08-31-2010, 03:06 AM
#22
Yes, I've seen you claim this cam is old and outdated in multiple threads. As said, I'm just showing the OP another choice for a cam to keep his options open.. I enjoy it, and have surprised a few TSP cam'd cars. I understand other similar cams can squeeze out a few more HPs.. FWIW, however, I will probably run a custom EPS when I get some 243 heads..
09-10-2010, 10:54 PM
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I can't delete cats, have emissions up here, and I don't want to punch them. I went with a TR224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA 918 springs and 740 hardeneed pushrods package. The ls6 intake woke the car up a little, hopefully the cam will pull some more potential out of it. And I have an M6, someone asked.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
09-26-2010, 10:15 AM
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No one ever follows up on these posts after they do the work so I thought I would... I went ahead with the tr224/224 .563/ .563 114 LSA with the comp 918 springs and the comp hardened pushrods. Did the ls6 intake swap as previously stated. The car is def a little stronger in mid to high range and probably even a little down low. I'm not overly impressed though, however, if it picked up 30-35 hp that's 10%, and it feels about 10-15% stronger, so maybe it's dead on. Over stock i'd say 15% max after doing the ls6 intake and the cam.
I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response..... If i roll on it at 1500 rpm in first gear it doesn't light up the tires and I'm only running 245's on the rear. It didn't before either though so can't really fault it there. I'm used to my old 5.0 cammed which if I rolled on it in first gear would just step out and spin them all day.
I was a little concerned I was missing a cylinder (coil pack wire bent or something) when I first ran it because I expected so much more. But I plugged the egr harness back in (egr canister just sitting in the engine bay not hooked up to intake or exaust and exaust blocked off) and reset the pcm and no codes so I guess i'm not missing one..... I guess i'll have to check my timing and see if I could be off a tooth but there is really no way that happened because I spent about 20 minutes making 100% sure it was dead on.
I'm thinking about going to a throttle body (I know everyone says to port it and maybe i will) and then a lid, hopefully this will wake up the throttle response, it just seems to take FOREVER to get up in rpms, and really if it can't move the air I suppose that could be the core of my problem right there.
As far as drivability and sound, I would probably never know the car was cammed, it drives exactly the same as stock except that it stays up in rpms longer if you push in the clutch at say 4k and drift (like maybe a half a second or so). The car maybe maybe maybe sounds a tiny bit cammed but it's not lopey or really noticable unless you really reallllly listen. Maybe that will be remedied with the catback.
all in all, for a dd with a little pep i'd go with this cam again. I don't think you're going to see night and day differences though unless you, possibly, do the throttle body and lid, and I'll let you guys know how that works out when I do it.
If anyone else has had this experience and figured out where the bottleneck was let me know, but I'm guessing it's the lid and possibly the tb.... hoping anyway!
I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response..... If i roll on it at 1500 rpm in first gear it doesn't light up the tires and I'm only running 245's on the rear. It didn't before either though so can't really fault it there. I'm used to my old 5.0 cammed which if I rolled on it in first gear would just step out and spin them all day.
I was a little concerned I was missing a cylinder (coil pack wire bent or something) when I first ran it because I expected so much more. But I plugged the egr harness back in (egr canister just sitting in the engine bay not hooked up to intake or exaust and exaust blocked off) and reset the pcm and no codes so I guess i'm not missing one..... I guess i'll have to check my timing and see if I could be off a tooth but there is really no way that happened because I spent about 20 minutes making 100% sure it was dead on.
I'm thinking about going to a throttle body (I know everyone says to port it and maybe i will) and then a lid, hopefully this will wake up the throttle response, it just seems to take FOREVER to get up in rpms, and really if it can't move the air I suppose that could be the core of my problem right there.
As far as drivability and sound, I would probably never know the car was cammed, it drives exactly the same as stock except that it stays up in rpms longer if you push in the clutch at say 4k and drift (like maybe a half a second or so). The car maybe maybe maybe sounds a tiny bit cammed but it's not lopey or really noticable unless you really reallllly listen. Maybe that will be remedied with the catback.
all in all, for a dd with a little pep i'd go with this cam again. I don't think you're going to see night and day differences though unless you, possibly, do the throttle body and lid, and I'll let you guys know how that works out when I do it.
If anyone else has had this experience and figured out where the bottleneck was let me know, but I'm guessing it's the lid and possibly the tb.... hoping anyway!
09-26-2010, 03:16 PM
#28
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Thanks for coming back and posting your results and impressions. I too am reading all the cam threads now and getting ready to do mine (I gave up on ever investing the $ in heads until I eventually do a bottom up rebuild in another 100K miles :-).
You said 2 yrs ago I did LTs, 4.11gears and ported TB all at the same time, but I think the ported TB really made a big difference in throttle response. My little county doesn't do emissions checks, but you might check into the CARB certified mid-LT headers available nowadays (like JBL).
Here's the clip I edited together showing my b4 and after throttle response on the dyno. It's especially noticeable in 4th gear to redline. (my HP went from 330 stock w/catback, to 345 w/ lt headers) I'm hoping to get near 400rwhp with a cam on this DD setup.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aplebel/...03965215721202
Good luck with your finishing touches.
Paul
You said
I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response.....
Here's the clip I edited together showing my b4 and after throttle response on the dyno. It's especially noticeable in 4th gear to redline. (my HP went from 330 stock w/catback, to 345 w/ lt headers) I'm hoping to get near 400rwhp with a cam on this DD setup.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aplebel/...03965215721202
Good luck with your finishing touches.
Paul
09-26-2010, 05:03 PM
#30
No one ever follows up on these posts after they do the work so I thought I would... I went ahead with the tr224/224 .563/ .563 114 LSA with the comp 918 springs and the comp hardened pushrods. Did the ls6 intake swap as previously stated. The car is def a little stronger in mid to high range and probably even a little down low. I'm not overly impressed though, however, if it picked up 30-35 hp that's 10%, and it feels about 10-15% stronger, so maybe it's dead on. Over stock i'd say 15% max after doing the ls6 intake and the cam.
I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response..... If i roll on it at 1500 rpm in first gear it doesn't light up the tires and I'm only running 245's on the rear. It didn't before either though so can't really fault it there. I'm used to my old 5.0 cammed which if I rolled on it in first gear would just step out and spin them all day.
I was a little concerned I was missing a cylinder (coil pack wire bent or something) when I first ran it because I expected so much more. But I plugged the egr harness back in (egr canister just sitting in the engine bay not hooked up to intake or exaust and exaust blocked off) and reset the pcm and no codes so I guess i'm not missing one..... I guess i'll have to check my timing and see if I could be off a tooth but there is really no way that happened because I spent about 20 minutes making 100% sure it was dead on.
I'm thinking about going to a throttle body (I know everyone says to port it and maybe i will) and then a lid, hopefully this will wake up the throttle response, it just seems to take FOREVER to get up in rpms, and really if it can't move the air I suppose that could be the core of my problem right there.
As far as drivability and sound, I would probably never know the car was cammed, it drives exactly the same as stock except that it stays up in rpms longer if you push in the clutch at say 4k and drift (like maybe a half a second or so). The car maybe maybe maybe sounds a tiny bit cammed but it's not lopey or really noticable unless you really reallllly listen. Maybe that will be remedied with the catback.
all in all, for a dd with a little pep i'd go with this cam again. I don't think you're going to see night and day differences though unless you, possibly, do the throttle body and lid, and I'll let you guys know how that works out when I do it.
If anyone else has had this experience and figured out where the bottleneck was let me know, but I'm guessing it's the lid and possibly the tb.... hoping anyway!
I really need to figure out a way to work on throttle response..... If i roll on it at 1500 rpm in first gear it doesn't light up the tires and I'm only running 245's on the rear. It didn't before either though so can't really fault it there. I'm used to my old 5.0 cammed which if I rolled on it in first gear would just step out and spin them all day.
I was a little concerned I was missing a cylinder (coil pack wire bent or something) when I first ran it because I expected so much more. But I plugged the egr harness back in (egr canister just sitting in the engine bay not hooked up to intake or exaust and exaust blocked off) and reset the pcm and no codes so I guess i'm not missing one..... I guess i'll have to check my timing and see if I could be off a tooth but there is really no way that happened because I spent about 20 minutes making 100% sure it was dead on.
I'm thinking about going to a throttle body (I know everyone says to port it and maybe i will) and then a lid, hopefully this will wake up the throttle response, it just seems to take FOREVER to get up in rpms, and really if it can't move the air I suppose that could be the core of my problem right there.
As far as drivability and sound, I would probably never know the car was cammed, it drives exactly the same as stock except that it stays up in rpms longer if you push in the clutch at say 4k and drift (like maybe a half a second or so). The car maybe maybe maybe sounds a tiny bit cammed but it's not lopey or really noticable unless you really reallllly listen. Maybe that will be remedied with the catback.
all in all, for a dd with a little pep i'd go with this cam again. I don't think you're going to see night and day differences though unless you, possibly, do the throttle body and lid, and I'll let you guys know how that works out when I do it.
If anyone else has had this experience and figured out where the bottleneck was let me know, but I'm guessing it's the lid and possibly the tb.... hoping anyway!
Edit*
Just wanted to add the power gain from the eps is not the only benifit either. Search eps and you will see that the eps lobe design is very easy on springs and has alot less valvetrain noise compared to other lobes. No I have no actual experience with a eps cam, but I have been researching different ls cams for a year or so now lol. If I ever pull the trigger, they will most likely get my business from what results I have seen. Simply because I want a street friendly setup that does not eat up springs... not to mention QUIETER valvetrain operation... imo this is just as important as the gains.
Last edited by kinglt-1; 09-26-2010 at 05:16 PM.
09-26-2010, 08:21 PM
#31
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No tune on the car, but it really doesn't seem to need one, and shops up here are quoting me 800+. IMO it's not worth that much money for 10 hp when I'm having no drivability issues whatsoever.
As far as the other cams, so many were recommended, I went with one a local shop I knew recommended because it mirrored several recom's I got here.
I really don't understand the "porting" of the throttle body and why that works but everyone says it does. I mean, I know what it is, but your not increasing the diameter at the blade so why does it make any difference?
And i'm with you 100% on the slp lid, gonna shoot for that, probably when i get paid this weekend.
Also, anyone ever cut a hole in the sleek beak hood on either side of where the hood catch is? It seems if you were to cut a hole on either side and put a tube in each one so that air shot straight through, then put foam around your slip lid opening so that it "sealed" against that, that you would have a better cold air intake system then the "FRA". I can't find anyone who's done this though.
As far as the other cams, so many were recommended, I went with one a local shop I knew recommended because it mirrored several recom's I got here.
I really don't understand the "porting" of the throttle body and why that works but everyone says it does. I mean, I know what it is, but your not increasing the diameter at the blade so why does it make any difference?
And i'm with you 100% on the slp lid, gonna shoot for that, probably when i get paid this weekend.
Also, anyone ever cut a hole in the sleek beak hood on either side of where the hood catch is? It seems if you were to cut a hole on either side and put a tube in each one so that air shot straight through, then put foam around your slip lid opening so that it "sealed" against that, that you would have a better cold air intake system then the "FRA". I can't find anyone who's done this though.
09-27-2010, 01:31 PM
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I'm not a mechanic. From what I've read here, the reason for TB porting, is to smooth out turbulent intake airflow, which then increases the air volume and throttle response. This is why CNC porting, likened to dimples on a golf ball, gets better results than old school TB polishing.
I had mine done by RevExtreme. Quick turn around, send them yours they send you same day a CNC ported one.
Sorry, I had pics of mine but can't find them.
I had mine done by RevExtreme. Quick turn around, send them yours they send you same day a CNC ported one.
Sorry, I had pics of mine but can't find them.
09-27-2010, 06:18 PM
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I think alot of the throttle response problems will be better with a tune or even a mail order tune if you haven't got the cash.
If its running rich or lean its going to be costing you power and effecting your fuel economy.
If its running rich or lean its going to be costing you power and effecting your fuel economy.
10-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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I ported on the TB, didn't help much, I also noticed the throttle stop when i was doing it and made that so it opened fully. I would think those manifolds flow pretty well, most people I know who have gotten long tubes have reported little to no sop difference, but, I personally have no experience with it on an LS1.
I have to figure out something.... it feels strong but not nearly as strong as it should.... I can't even turn the wheels with 245's even if stomped at like 2500-3000 rpm. I guess i will have to try the tune, just sucks because if it doesn't work and I have to add more mods I'll need a new tune! Anyone else think the headers are my big bottleneck???
I have to figure out something.... it feels strong but not nearly as strong as it should.... I can't even turn the wheels with 245's even if stomped at like 2500-3000 rpm. I guess i will have to try the tune, just sucks because if it doesn't work and I have to add more mods I'll need a new tune! Anyone else think the headers are my big bottleneck???
10-01-2010, 08:13 PM
#40
I ported on the TB, didn't help much, I also noticed the throttle stop when i was doing it and made that so it opened fully. I would think those manifolds flow pretty well, most people I know who have gotten long tubes have reported little to no sop difference, but, I personally have no experience with it on an LS1.
I have to figure out something.... it feels strong but not nearly as strong as it should.... I can't even turn the wheels with 245's even if stomped at like 2500-3000 rpm. I guess i will have to try the tune, just sucks because if it doesn't work and I have to add more mods I'll need a new tune! Anyone else think the headers are my big bottleneck???
I have to figure out something.... it feels strong but not nearly as strong as it should.... I can't even turn the wheels with 245's even if stomped at like 2500-3000 rpm. I guess i will have to try the tune, just sucks because if it doesn't work and I have to add more mods I'll need a new tune! Anyone else think the headers are my big bottleneck???
.