bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

It started about a week after the turbos were installed and the car was tuned. I took it to a dyno day event that week and noticed it getting really low and took it home immediately. I have driven it around the neighborhood a few times since then trying to diagnose the problem and it started making that tapping sound a few weeks ago and seems to have gotten progressively worse. I kept thinking it was just the turbos taking too much oil from the engine and not getting it returned fast enough, but now I think its something with the motor itself. I have quit starting it up altogether but am not sure if any serious damage has been done.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Oil pressure will go up with RPM & if you live in hotter climates like Las Vegas where it gets well over 100 deg it could get a lil low. Not 5 psi though, thats too low. You should have 10 psi for every 1000 rpms, +10 psi on top of that to be on the safe side so at idle minimum 20 psi. Your engine bearing clearances determine your oil pressure so if your bearings have too much clearance it will lower your oil pressure.
You would connect your gauge to the fitting that the oil pressure sensor screws into, behind the intake manifold. Unscrew the sensor & thread your gauge into that. One other thing that I thought of after I read someone elses post about oil pressure problem after a fresh rebuild. There was a plug missing on this guys engine near the oil pump area. Go to post #29, but this may or may not be the issue. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-solved-2.html

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

So I just screw a gauge directly into there, no line or anything? Is there a certain kind of gauge I should look for if I want to do this cheap and easy?

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

You need an oil pressure gauge with hose & the same size threads that are on the oil pressure sensor. Remove the sensor & install the gauge in place of the sensor.

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

I'm having a hard time finding a cheap mechanical gauge for this and I dont know what fitting size I need either. Any suggestions?

Also, I had a D-1SC on the car for a minute before going to the turbo. When the guy who installed the turbo was trying to put the stock crank pulley back on, he said it wouldn't fit because it was hitting the double roller timing chain cover???? It had fit on with no problem before so I don't know what that was all about. He had it machined down to clear and then ran an all-thread and a nut to hold it on. He assured me that he had built several motors with over 800 hp and ran the crank like that before in some of them with zero issues. I came across a thread today where a guy was having my exact same issue after installing a new crank pulley. Can an improperly installed crank pulley have an effect on the oil pump or somehow cause oil pressure problems in the crank?

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

Here is a pic of the crank pulley:

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

Turns out that it had 2 loose rockers and 2 bent pushrods. Gonna replace those and see what happens.

KevinR

That will make the noise..

The oil pressure is a different story though.

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

Can those bent pushrods **** up the bottom end?

Drewhelm

iTrader: (7)

Did you install a different cam with the turbo? There was no mention of it. Pushrods don't usually bend unless there is some kind of piston to valve contact. What boost level are you running? Stock pistons?

My fresh build broke on the dyno making a very similar noise....it was a broken ring land on #7.

bluebird71

iTrader: (54)

Cam and pistons were put in long before turbo install. If you read my sig, you will see that obviously they arent stock internals with a FORGED 347. I had bad plugs so could misfire at high rpm also cause this?