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Shaved heads and valves wont shut

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Old 09-13-2010, 05:58 PM
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unless they replaced the seats then you may just need a shorter p/r to compensate for the valve riding higher in the head.
Old 09-13-2010, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
How much do you trust the machine shop?
Where they milled to much?
If seats and valve faces both were ground excessively would make the the valve stem higher, that will lead to pushrod length issues.

Just some stuff to think about. Do you have access to a set of stock heads so you can do some measurements?
I agree
Old 09-13-2010, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by HotSilverBird
Listen to me...THE LIFTERS ARE DIRTY! pull um and check um out they are NOT bleeding down like they should.
Thats alot of work for something I'm not sure of, but i know its something silly like this. I guess I could pull it down and start there.

Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
unless they replaced the seats then you may just need a shorter p/r to compensate for the valve riding higher in the head.
Seats were not replaced. I will have a adj pushrod soon to properly measure, but I would hate to order a new set of pushrods and have a lifter problem.

Last edited by 357i; 09-13-2010 at 09:25 PM.
Old 09-14-2010, 08:36 AM
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Betcha 100 gazzillion dollars in mexican money of course you got some kind of dirt in the oil system and the place it will screw with the most is the lifter bleed down. If the lifter won't bleed off they turn into solid lifters and from the description you give trying to adjust the valves I think this is your problem. I've seen it quite a few times and i've also seen it where it complately stops the engine from running by holding the valves open. Does it ever stall coming to a idle?
Old 09-14-2010, 12:30 PM
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So if this is the issue, and I pull the heads, it would be dumb not to replace the lifters. How do I make sure there isnt something there(dirt) so it wont do it again?
Old 09-14-2010, 02:15 PM
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Personally, I think pulling the heads based on the assumption all lifters have dirt is premature.
Old 09-14-2010, 02:46 PM
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I agree, but I'm looking at all options here. I have an adj pushrod comming from summit so I guess I'll start there, but it just doesnt add up that my pushrods are this far off.
Old 09-14-2010, 02:51 PM
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Try the rislone like i mentioned...i've seen it clean the lifters and they start working again. I've also had it COMPLETELY block the lifters. It depends on what is causing this trouble, dirt in the engine or something coming apart?
Old 09-14-2010, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by EightySevenRX7
I agree, but I'm looking at all options here. I have an adj pushrod comming from summit so I guess I'll start there, but it just doesnt add up that my pushrods are this far off.
I really think you should check for zero lash my way and then your way and see if you find a difference between the two methods. If your zero lash position is too low in the lifter, then when you tighten the bolt the value will be incorrect.
Old 09-14-2010, 04:32 PM
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I have another idea but it involves pulling some lifters, If you pull a few and disaassemble them carefully you will find any dirt that could be blocking the disks etc. Do you have good oil flow out of the push rods to the rockers?
Old 09-14-2010, 04:47 PM
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when I checked it your way(which is right I'm sure) it comes up to 1 1/2 turns which says the pushrods are the right length.

I have good oil flow up the pushrods even at cranking speed

Could I have too much oil pressure or volume causing the lifters to max out?

Does it matter which way I installed the lifters originally? I dont know which direction I put the oiling holes in

Last edited by 357i; 09-14-2010 at 04:53 PM.
Old 09-14-2010, 05:07 PM
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naa the oil holes wouldn't matter.....hmmm this is perplexing. I'm still thinking some type of dirt or something affecting the disk at the top of the lifters.
Old 09-14-2010, 06:19 PM
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roll the engine over on a suspect lifter, let it sit for a few minutes holding the valve wide open.

then remove the rocker, the oil should all be pushed out of the lifter, you should be able to move the puck of the lifter up and down on its spring fairly easy with the pushrod.. if you cant then maybe the lifter is locked up.. if you can then it is all in the heads.

.030 off the heads and .030 movement in the valves for example could be the only problem.
Old 09-14-2010, 06:48 PM
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I suspect something is causing the check ball in the bottom of the lifter to stick closed. If these check ***** are dirty or sticking it will cause the issue you are having. Buy a qt of Rislone and try that before you do anything else, If the ***** are sticking it will clean them up.

Last edited by HotSilverBird; 09-14-2010 at 06:58 PM.
Old 09-14-2010, 06:55 PM
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I can hang a valve open and leave it for a min and it will push the oil out(i think) and I can feel some spongy feeling by pushing the push rod at that point so I would assume that it is compressing like that
Old 09-14-2010, 06:59 PM
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If you have a dial indicator, set it on the retainer and then set rocker to zero lash. Zero the dial and then tighten the bolt. The valve spring may open but should come back to closed on the dial.
Old 09-14-2010, 07:00 PM
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I thought this engine had only 400 miles on it? How does anyone think 16 lifters will all get f'd up at the same time with such low miles.

The reason I ask if you had any stock heads was so you could measure the valve stem height versus your head and if you could find a spot to measure the deck thickness to see how much was really cut.
Old 09-14-2010, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
I thought this engine had only 400 miles on it? How does anyone think 16 lifters will all get f'd up at the same time with such low miles.

The reason I ask if you had any stock heads was so you could measure the valve stem height versus your head and if you could find a spot to measure the deck thickness to see how much was really cut.
DIRT in the oil system will do it quick! NOWAY those valves should hand open at that setting, the check valves gotta be sticking or partailly blocked with crap. In my opinion...I would try something like i mentioned in the oil to clean them. Its a long shot but it maybe helpful and send you in some direction.
Old 09-16-2010, 02:06 AM
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are you sure they don't close at all. what sort of overlap is this camshaft because that can affect compression test greatly because the engine isn't going to create efficient compression until the cam is in an efficient rpm range. waaaaay above cranking rpm. and of course the pressure with skyrocket with the valves comlpetely shut with no overlap as the camshaft is now out of the equasion. I haven't read the whole thread but it is something to remember when using a compression gauge.
Old 09-17-2010, 11:50 AM
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I got my adj push rod today, bottomed out the lifter and got it set to zero lash. The tool measured 7.300 and then I have to subtract .100 to figure the center of the lifter plunger. It doesnt seem right that I would need 7.200 pushrods in this motor.


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