Reinstalling stock pushrods and rockers
Reinstalling stock pushrods and rockers Im checking for bent pushrods and Im confused at how you reinstall the rockers. When putting on the stock rockers do you need to get them to TDC before torquing them to 22ftlbs or do you just put the pushrods back in and reinstall the rockers however they happen to be sitting?
Is this what Im supposed to do?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI&feature=fvw
Is this what Im supposed to do?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI&feature=fvw
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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you could remove the plugs put the rods and rocker in place ,loose.turn the engine over with the breaker bar and socket .turn the engine over slowly ,and toque that set of rockers when the push rods are at their lowest.
but for me I just torqued them all down to 22 ft/lbs, turned the motor and torque checked them all again. I also used the red lock-tite too.
When I went over all of the bolts after turning the motor I didn't find any bolts that were not at 22 ft/lbs. Just from my observation you won't reach 22 ft/lbs unless the rocker is pressing against the head/plate so the resistance you get from the compression of the valve spring shouldn't really matter.
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Great info, thanks. So far I got the valve covers all off and none of the holes for the pushrods are wallowed out that I can see, but a few are almost touching the sides of the holes. Now that I know how to put it all back together, Ill go ahead and take the pushrods out and it should go a lot smoother. I guess replacing with hardened pushrods is recommended?
I have seen rocker arm bolts strip the threads straight out of the heads due to not following the proper procedures of torquing the bolts down without any load on the pushrods.
Just follow the GM procedure and save yourself a possible big headache later.
Just follow the GM procedure and save yourself a possible big headache later.
Sounds like a PTV clearance issue if the bolt stripped out.
I actually have access to all of the GM procedures and parts catalogs... No where have I stated not to follow the procedure and actually I recommended the procedure up above by starting out my post with "^^".
Anyway, the post of mine that you quoted was referring to a rocker bolt stripping its threads (had nothing to do with following the procedure or not). I would think there would have to be upward force from both the pushrod and the valve stem for this to happen.
^^
but for me I just torqued them all down to 22 ft/lbs, turned the motor and torque checked them all again. I also used the red lock-tite too.
When I went over all of the bolts after turning the motor I didn't find any bolts that were not at 22 ft/lbs. Just from my observation you won't reach 22 ft/lbs unless the rocker is pressing against the head/plate so the resistance you get from the compression of the valve spring shouldn't really matter.
but for me I just torqued them all down to 22 ft/lbs, turned the motor and torque checked them all again. I also used the red lock-tite too.
When I went over all of the bolts after turning the motor I didn't find any bolts that were not at 22 ft/lbs. Just from my observation you won't reach 22 ft/lbs unless the rocker is pressing against the head/plate so the resistance you get from the compression of the valve spring shouldn't really matter.
I actually have access to all of the GM procedures and parts catalogs... No where have I stated not to follow the procedure and actually I recommended the procedure up above by starting out my post with "^^".
Anyway, the post of mine that you quoted was referring to a rocker bolt stripping its threads (had nothing to do with following the procedure or not). I would think there would have to be upward force from both the pushrod and the valve stem for this to happen.
It doesn't take much to strip aluminum heads before the bolts are fully seated and torqued.
One thing to remember when checking torque. You can't simply put a wrench on the bolt and tighten measuring the torque value once it has been tightened the first time. You are measuring static friction rather then dynamic friction, i.e., it may show it is at 22 lb-ft on the torque wrench but the bolt preload may be less not following the GM procedure because other factors come into play.