Want to Go to Synthetic Oil,Need Advice Especially From PatMan!
09-29-2010, 04:09 PM
#61
TECH Senior Member
09-29-2010, 04:27 PM
#62
09-29-2010, 05:21 PM
#63
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Well sport I didnt step on my dick by making any bullshit claim. Look dude, I'm getting tired of your mouth. Quit trying to show out on here by putting down Mississippi and telling me I need to go to a special ed class. I am 22 years old and I will lay down pay stubs with you any time. I am not a dumb ***, I have done the research, I know what the deal is with synthetic oil. It reduces friction and heat in the motor which increases horsepower and thats what it was designed to do, thats fact. If you dont think its any better then go tell NASCAR, Formula 1 and the NHRA. Maybe they will listen to you cause I'm not. My statements and opinions were not for you, they were for the OP. If you dont like them then thats your problem. Get off my nuts and go back to doing "certified tech" stuff.
Last edited by BaddBird; 09-29-2010 at 06:49 PM.
09-29-2010, 06:31 PM
#64
Ok I have 2 Cars to Ask a Oil Change question about.
I bought my Wifes 99 Trans Am in 08 with 82 k on it.Now Car Has 92 K on it.I have been Running Valvoline 10w/30 synthetic Blend in it since I bought the Car.My Question is Can I go to Mobile One 10w/30 with a Wix Filter without any issues?Or is this to High of Miliage?
Car Number 2 is a 07 Chevy Impala that I bought with 41 k on it and Now it Has 53 K on it.Can I go to Mobile One 5w/30 in this vehicle without any issues?
Thanks for the Input....
I bought my Wifes 99 Trans Am in 08 with 82 k on it.Now Car Has 92 K on it.I have been Running Valvoline 10w/30 synthetic Blend in it since I bought the Car.My Question is Can I go to Mobile One 10w/30 with a Wix Filter without any issues?Or is this to High of Miliage?
Car Number 2 is a 07 Chevy Impala that I bought with 41 k on it and Now it Has 53 K on it.Can I go to Mobile One 5w/30 in this vehicle without any issues?
Thanks for the Input....
Just to get back to the original post......
it should not be an issue if you use the oils listed above in your first post.
you should look at the climate as to where you live and determine the proper weight oil for your vehicle...
different climates recommend different weight oils...
if you get freezing temps in the winter, then you should probably stick to a 5/30 in both vehicles as this will be better for ice cold starts
if you dont get down past about 40*F, then a 10/30 would be fine
the key with any vehicle is to get it properly warmed up before you go hammering on it...in the winter, let the vehicle idle for a little longer to get up to a warmer temp before you take off.. in the summer, its obviously going to take less time for the oil to get up to temperature to properly flow and lubricate engine components
just be sure to change your oil at regular intervals...and try to do it when the oil is hot as it will drain better taking more contaminants with it...
if it helps... take it to an oil change place to let them do it for you
the choice of your oil filter and oil brand is not near as critical as the regular changing and replacing of both... just dont buy a generic no name filter or oil.. get something mainstream and proven.
09-29-2010, 10:40 PM
#65
TECH Senior Member
The only problem with that is that its just as vague as half the answers on this thread... "current manufacturing doesn't require...". Where the hell does 'current' start? late 90s when some of these engines were built? last 5 years? Does it matter on the type of rings used? Alum/Cast block? etc. That may be a "FAQ" on myths and crap, but imo it will just stir up as many controversies as its trying to solve. Again I go back to saying we only use people with real proof (high mileage engines) and whatever they use.
09-29-2010, 11:05 PM
#66
Patman doesn't show up much on LS1tech anymore, but he can be found on bobistheoilguy. As I said in my first post, if you want oil knowledge, get on there.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the GM Oil Life Monitor our cars have. This is a very sophisticated system that is a highly reliable indicator of when you need to change your oil. I've had it come in at less than 3000 (winter, lots of short trips) and up to about 5000 (moderate temps, more highway).
The OLM is set for conventional oils, so if you run synthetics, you can go longer. Oil analysis has proven this true for me. I've gone 6000+ on GC 0-30. The oil has tested out as still healthy.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the GM Oil Life Monitor our cars have. This is a very sophisticated system that is a highly reliable indicator of when you need to change your oil. I've had it come in at less than 3000 (winter, lots of short trips) and up to about 5000 (moderate temps, more highway).
The OLM is set for conventional oils, so if you run synthetics, you can go longer. Oil analysis has proven this true for me. I've gone 6000+ on GC 0-30. The oil has tested out as still healthy.
09-30-2010, 04:02 PM
#67
Just to get back to the original post......
it should not be an issue if you use the oils listed above in your first post.
you should look at the climate as to where you live and determine the proper weight oil for your vehicle...
different climates recommend different weight oils...
if you get freezing temps in the winter, then you should probably stick to a 5/30 in both vehicles as this will be better for ice cold starts
if you dont get down past about 40*F, then a 10/30 would be fine
the key with any vehicle is to get it properly warmed up before you go hammering on it...in the winter, let the vehicle idle for a little longer to get up to a warmer temp before you take off.. in the summer, its obviously going to take less time for the oil to get up to temperature to properly flow and lubricate engine components
just be sure to change your oil at regular intervals...and try to do it when the oil is hot as it will drain better taking more contaminants with it...
if it helps... take it to an oil change place to let them do it for you
the choice of your oil filter and oil brand is not near as critical as the regular changing and replacing of both... just dont buy a generic no name filter or oil.. get something mainstream and proven.
it should not be an issue if you use the oils listed above in your first post.
you should look at the climate as to where you live and determine the proper weight oil for your vehicle...
different climates recommend different weight oils...
if you get freezing temps in the winter, then you should probably stick to a 5/30 in both vehicles as this will be better for ice cold starts
if you dont get down past about 40*F, then a 10/30 would be fine
the key with any vehicle is to get it properly warmed up before you go hammering on it...in the winter, let the vehicle idle for a little longer to get up to a warmer temp before you take off.. in the summer, its obviously going to take less time for the oil to get up to temperature to properly flow and lubricate engine components
just be sure to change your oil at regular intervals...and try to do it when the oil is hot as it will drain better taking more contaminants with it...
if it helps... take it to an oil change place to let them do it for you
the choice of your oil filter and oil brand is not near as critical as the regular changing and replacing of both... just dont buy a generic no name filter or oil.. get something mainstream and proven.
09-30-2010, 04:04 PM
#68
Patman doesn't show up much on LS1tech anymore, but he can be found on bobistheoilguy. As I said in my first post, if you want oil knowledge, get on there.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the GM Oil Life Monitor our cars have. This is a very sophisticated system that is a highly reliable indicator of when you need to change your oil. I've had it come in at less than 3000 (winter, lots of short trips) and up to about 5000 (moderate temps, more highway).
The OLM is set for conventional oils, so if you run synthetics, you can go longer. Oil analysis has proven this true for me. I've gone 6000+ on GC 0-30. The oil has tested out as still healthy.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the GM Oil Life Monitor our cars have. This is a very sophisticated system that is a highly reliable indicator of when you need to change your oil. I've had it come in at less than 3000 (winter, lots of short trips) and up to about 5000 (moderate temps, more highway).
The OLM is set for conventional oils, so if you run synthetics, you can go longer. Oil analysis has proven this true for me. I've gone 6000+ on GC 0-30. The oil has tested out as still healthy.
09-30-2010, 05:05 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by Patman
It really depends on the type of oil temperatures you might typically see. If the engine is close to stock and you're just using it for normal driving around town, you will be just fine using any of the popular 5w30 synthetics like Pennzoil Platinum or Redline or Amsoil. If you're doing any type of road racing, or other such driving where you might see consistently high oil temps of over 250F, then I'd recommend going with something like Amsoil 10w40 or Redline 10w40.
Originally Posted by Patman
With Redline you definitely don't need to change it every 3k, I would recommend doing it every 6k. With my Corvette I follow the oil life monitor and it usually signals a change around 7000 miles, and my oil analysis results show that to be a safe interval too.
09-30-2010, 05:42 PM
#70
Originally Posted by Patman
With Redline you definitely don't need to change it every 3k, I would recommend doing it every 6k. With my Corvette I follow the oil life monitor and it usually signals a change around 7000 miles, and my oil analysis results show that to be a safe interval too.
haha PATMAN has finally spoken...we are all now enlightened.
With Redline you definitely don't need to change it every 3k, I would recommend doing it every 6k. With my Corvette I follow the oil life monitor and it usually signals a change around 7000 miles, and my oil analysis results show that to be a safe interval too.
haha PATMAN has finally spoken...we are all now enlightened.
