Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

Ok I have 2 Cars to Ask a Oil Change question about.
I bought my Wifes 99 Trans Am in 08 with 82 k on it.Now Car Has 92 K on it.I have been Running Valvoline 10w/30 synthetic Blend in it since I bought the Car.My Question is Can I go to Mobile One 10w/30 with a Wix Filter without any issues?Or is this to High of Miliage?

Car Number 2 is a 07 Chevy Impala that I bought with 41 k on it and Now it Has 53 K on it.Can I go to Mobile One 5w/30 in this vehicle without any issues?
Thanks for the Input....

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

No Info?

GSus

iTrader: (2)

You can put whatever oil you want in either vehicle, just don't go with some radical heavy weight oil.

BaddBird

iTrader: (6)

Your fine. You should have no problems. I myself like the AC delco filters.

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

You'll be okay. Wix filters are really good. If you want, check inside the fill plug to see if there's a lot of gunk or varnish buildup. The esters in the full synthetic oil will remove a little more debris than lesser oil, so that's why people think synthetic oil "causes" leaks. The oil's cleaning the debris from the old and hardened seals. If that seems to occur, run some AutoRX through it to rejuvenate the seals and gaskets.

armyboyatc

iTrader: (29)

Synthetic motor oil will NOT tear your engine up. I dont care what anyone says. The engine oil is designed to protect your motor so better oil = better protection. I have run Mobil 1 in all of my cars and 3 of which I bought with over 100 thousand miles on them and have put Mobil 1 in them with no ill effects. The only time I wouldnt put a synthetic oil in a motor is if you have lots of sludge in your motor. The high detergents in the synthetic oil will break the sludge up in the motor and it could cause your oil pick up to become clogged which will cut off the flow of oil. If you dont have sludge then I think the best thing you could do is put Mobil 1 in it. Its a great oil and I run it in everything.
Also, be sure to change your oil every 3,000 miles. I know it says different on the bottle but think of it this way. Engine oil is designed to protect your motor, not itself. The oil picks up the same amount of contaminates, so you need to change it at 3,000 miles. The extra money you are paying for the oil is for the protection, not for the ability of going over 3,000 miles between oil changes.

As far as the oil filter goes, I would run anything but a fram. I have heard more horror stories about a Fram filter than any other filter out there. I personally have seen a 40,000 race motor blow up on an engine dyno because the Fram filter collapsed. I run wix filters on all of my motors and have no complaints.

I hope this information helps you out.

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

3000 mile oci's are absolutely not necessary unless the engine sees track duty. 5000 miles on a full synthetic is well within reason. 5000 miles on standard dino oil is the norm these days. I run Amsoil SSO and an oil analysis at 5000 miles is sure to show there is still a ton of life left.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Synthetic is not necessary unless you just like spending more money on oil changes.

Buy any decent name brand oil (besides Quaker State) on sale at your local Walmart, and a decent filter. Change it every 3K, done.

ND400

anyone who believes they can get away with a cheaper oil is kidding themselves. I suggest you all look at mainlube.com.au for the filtergram results on oils.

LSX's love there synthetic. Every 3-3.5k miles. We recently proved a topshelf oil company wasnt all it cracked up to be. With there oil breaking down when the oil got a bit hot. And never recovered. Once burnt it might aswell have been used at mcdonalds.

In our customers vehicles we use ELF 10w-50 which to date has minimal varnish buildup. And the filtergram results are where we expected them if not better.

I personally use Castrol EDGE 10W-60. 40k miles on my LS1. no varnish, no noise, no smells and relatively affordable.

So i suggest that before you throw anything in there, read up on the processes and addittives that these oil companys put into these blends before you throw anything in there.

As for filters, STRICTLY AcDelco.

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

This is the Kind of info I am looking for.I have Always Heard not to go to Synthetic oil over 80k

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

All the info you could ever want ... and more: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

armyboyatc

iTrader: (29)

No problem man. Glad I could help! Just to let you know, my dad owns oil change businesses and I have heard every oil sales pitch out there. I have also heard all the BS stories about synthetics tearing up motors and one guy even said "synthetic oils leave plastic in the motor". What it boils down to is people go buy a raggedy car that already has problems and they put synthetic oil in it to try to "save" the motor and then it blows up, like it was going to anyway, and then they blame it on the synthetic motor oil instead of admitting that it is a raggedy POS. You're fine man. Put the synthetic oil in your car and enjoy the power increase and increased gas mileage.
Good luck to you.

I just wanted to add that the "increased power and gas milage" statement applies to MOST people. ALMOST every person that comes through my dads shop says that after they switched to Mobil 1 they saw a 2 - 5 MPG increase. I know that statement is gonna make some people be like "bull crap, no it doesn't. Show me the facts..... hate hate hate hate" but that is why I said MOST and ALMOST everyone.

For those of you who dont run synthetic oil because you think it doesn't help, I would suggest that you spend a little extra money and change to a GOOD synthetic motor oil like Amsoil, Castrol, or Mobil 1 and take your car to the track and race and see if it helps your time. If you dont race, check your gas mileage. Just a suggestion. Good luck to everyone!

X-ray

iTrader: (6)

50 and 60 weight oil? You've got to be shitting me.

ND400

not shitting anyone mate. BTW have a look at BMW's M5. 5L V10, quad cams, ect ect ect... the oil sticker in the engine bay reccomends 10w-60 castrol.

I suggest you read up on how oil works and different types before you get the wrong idea.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I have two engines sitting in my garage, on changed every 3000 miles with synthetic, and one every 3000 with regular oil. The regular oil one looks like its been in a tar pit, with so much gunk buildup I can scrape it off with a butter knife. The 8 year older motor that ran synthetic looks brand new. That shows me I have made the right choice running synthetic in mine.

Michael Matthews

iTrader: (3)

Have you ever read your owners manual on any ls v8 motor they all recomend 5-30. People wonder why? Gm would have 5-30. Ford has 5-20 now days and so does dodge. Its not to be different i promise you. They recomend it for a reason. Prolly because of the type of material is used to make the bearings of yout engine. Like babbit material. So i wouldnt go by what the dirty germans put in their motors. I would be more worried about GM and what they recomend. I use 5-30 and or 10-30 mobil one and castrol gtx. And anyways the ls motor is "tight" with very little tolerence also another reason they prolly use 5-30. And not some big rig oil like my dad puts in his freightshaker. I would not use anything but 5-30 or 10-30 in my ls engine.

Michael Matthews

iTrader: (3)

I really cannot beleive the motor using regular conventional oil being changed every 3000 would have garnish or build up on it. I can see if they didnt change it til like 6000. But idk guess its an opinion or what we run into. I tore down a 99 chevy 5.3 damn good ls motor! It had horrible ticking in the valvetrain. Pulled the cam and the first lobe was wiped out. And the lifter was donkey dicked up. Still dont know what caused it but maybe it was ran low low on oil. Dudes grandpa had it. Has 125 k on it damn good oil pressure. Inside of motor has a lil brownish color to it. But no varnish or gunk where the goo man had hit it. The old man took care of it and you can see that. Sorry if hijacked the thread just puttin in my two cents

BaddBird

iTrader: (6)

This has got to be a joke. While I don't change oil at the local Fast Lube I do turn wrenches for a living and this is the most ridiculous statement I have ever heard about synthetic oil. Not really trying to be a dick, but come on a 2-5 MPG gain from switching to Mobil 1 .

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I was shocked too, believe me. I thought no way in hell. Just stating what my experience was. I have personally only ran conventional motor oil in my old ford f-150 with the straight six. And that was a long time ago at that.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

synthetic motor oil is mostly hype...
never use it when breaking in a new motor...it can tear your motor up when you are breaking in a new motor.
synthetic motor oil is slicker than normal motor oil and actually can stop the break in process before it completes and your rings wont seat and seal properly...
which means you have to take it to a machine shop, get them to put a new cross hatch on it...and put in new rings to match..
oils with higher ZDDP are always better for break in .. many synthetic oils have a very low ZDDP value compared to regular oil and both have way less than a true break in oil.


I've seen engines run on pure synthetic their whole life, and engines run on basic oil their whole life... both versions I have seen clean and dirty..its all about regular maintainence
sludge can come from oil, fuel, and air...keep all 3 filters clean and and your engine will be cleaner in general
also keeping the PCV system well maintained keeps atomized oils from entering your intake and fogging up the cylinders with oil.
using breathers instead of a PCV is the best option... no oil to intake air contact.
also breathers help in the break in process allowing proper crank case ventilation and allowing the rings to seat properly

the one thing I have noticed, is engines that run full synthetic their whole life, usually eat more oil than an engine that has used normal oil their whole life