00 black ss

iTrader: (9)

i daily drove my ms3 and there was no problems. it is all in the tune. i wish i went with the ms4. as long as you have gears to support the cam it will drive fine with a good tune

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

As already suggested a TR230 or TR228 cam. IMO I would stay away from something like the MS4. Yes you might have 400rwhp but your torque is going to suck. You can get 400rhwp out of a 230 sized cam but have way more low end. I would rather have 400 rwhp and torque than 410rwhp and 350 ft lbs.

Best bet is to have Pat G spec you a cam or call Geoff at EPS.

WSsick

iTrader: (13)

Best= custom grind

My off the shelf pick= 228R on a 114 LSA

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

You prove my supporting mods point.....And I still don't like the aggressive lobes for a DD car but to each his own.... That is more of a strip cam than DD cam IMO

Lanaue

iTrader: (3)

great

NHRA4MULA

iTrader: (29)

i just went thru all of this I went to the dyno section in here and looked at the cam only section and read all the post and the one thing that I did see is the the T REX cam will get the job done over and over it has made better than 400 hp in a stock ls1 with a ls6 intake and headers and a good tune and yes you will need to put some gears in it but bang for your buck this will get you there and if you call Thunder racing and go to there web site you can see dyno numbers on this cam and talk to them you dont have to fly cut but if you miss a gear and over rev it its going to need to be fixed and it has a nice radical idle go to youtube and type in trex and check it out

87gtNOS

Why is there only one mention of power under the curve in this thread???

Wouldn't a 54-444-11 Comp cam be a much better street cam than a MS3?

I am real interested in power under the curve, not peak hp these cams make.

What difference in peak hp could there be?? 10hp?

b20forlife

iTrader: (4)

well I will have 7/8 long tube headers. ls6 intake with ported throtle body. cold air intake. I should have mentione my car is not an fbody. its actually a rx7 and it come with 410 gears from factory and its irs. so dont know how much power loss it will have trought the rear end. I did think of the ms3 and have been leaning towards it quite a bit but I'm going to look into a spec cam from either eps or pat g

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

MS4 is a Top End Cam. It's a Marshmellow in the normal driving/crusing range and when it hits 4k+ RPMS then it rips along nicely. Springs with these aggressive profiles do need to be changed between every 12-24k miles OR at least checked for pressure. OR if you have been racing a good deal. It's considered "matience"

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

It is absolutely recommended that PTV Clearence to be checked. The cam is designed as max effort on a stock LS1 motor but there are variations and tolerences that companies that actually grind the cam work with and sometimes they get under cut or over cut. IF someone installs a Donkey D. cam and not check the PTV clearence, then they get what they deserve.

Being that it's in a RX7, the race weight should def be down compared to a Fbody. I mention this as weight has a big factor with top end cams. Less weight means that the less TQ produced from idle to 4k wont feel as laggy as it would with a 3800 lbs Fbody. I am still recommending VRx4 from Vengence or EPS but I would be interested to see where a D.D. cam takes that light of a car.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

You don't need one of these monster cams to meet the original goals you specified. You WILL tradeoff drivability and bottom end. Yes, good tuners can make anything drivable, but the huge cams are still huge and are not the BEST for both drivability and being able to meet the goals you laid out. The goals you laid out as well as your current setup does not lead me to the biggest cams. I would still recommend you something in this range: http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...-center/sd0130


Some setups need custom specs, but most of the cam only and heads/cam setups have been done so many times and what works the best has been proven and tested so many times that the cams make it to shelf stock status based on the fact that they have proved themselves to be the best. The term "custom spec" is a bit of a misnomer that gets thrown around alot. Off the shelf cams are simply custom spec cams that have proven themselves in the basic setups, so they are obviously the best choice for someone doing a common cam only or heads/cam build.

heavy6.0

iTrader: (69)

do you want a mustang dyno 400rwhp or a dynojet 400rwhp? we can get you there no problem!

silverstreak98maro

iTrader: (7)

Ms4 my buddy runs it with the prc dual valve springs on stock bottom end no fly cutting needed with pace headers n tune hes round 404 rwhp

danger ds

iTrader: (1)

In a m6 you dont need a max effort cam ex. ms4 trex.......to make 400rwhp. I put down 376 through a A4 cam only 228R.

hiltsy855

iTrader: (35)

With a cam like the 228R how much can you lug the motor? Say you're cruising at 30mph, can you be in 4th gear at around 1400rpm without bucking? I suppose it's all in the tune, right.

74ta

The old faithful TR230-236 has been good to me and very driveable.Made 385 through a steel pst driveshaft and 12 bolt with zr1 wheels.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

TSP 233/239 .595/.603 114lsa made over 400 rwhp no underdrive pulley TODAY! Im a believer

RNation0001

iTrader: (2)

i daily drive a vengence vindicator cam for a while it wasnt to bad and it made 400 with boltons and stock heads

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I love this cam. Mine made north of 400 also! As far as power under the curve, who the hell cares? I mean when you pull up next to someone on the highway at 40mph are you going to leave it in 4th and hit it?

Mr. Quick

TR230/224, research this cam... Look at torque under the curve!