Max efort 347 top end
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Max efort 347 top end
Currently my car is cam only. I sold one of my snakes and have a pretty good amount of money to spend (figure around 6K) and have decided to finally finish my motor built.
Motor is fully built bottom end (billit crank/rods forged pistons ARP hardware)
I have an MS4 in it right now, and seeing as TSP holds the record for stock bottom end stock cubes N/A ( i htink thats it, **** i cant keep track anymore) i was figuring MS4 PRC 215s FAST 102 and call it a day, but then i figured **** alot of the guys you see on the fastest lists are running a TRex or some other well known "donkey dick" cam.
Should i pull the MS4 out and switch over to the Trex or something along those lines? Anyone have real world experience with max effort stock cubes?
Motor is fully built bottom end (billit crank/rods forged pistons ARP hardware)
I have an MS4 in it right now, and seeing as TSP holds the record for stock bottom end stock cubes N/A ( i htink thats it, **** i cant keep track anymore) i was figuring MS4 PRC 215s FAST 102 and call it a day, but then i figured **** alot of the guys you see on the fastest lists are running a TRex or some other well known "donkey dick" cam.
Should i pull the MS4 out and switch over to the Trex or something along those lines? Anyone have real world experience with max effort stock cubes?
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The MS4 should be fine especially since you have it already. I would just top it with AFR210cc v2 heads and a used fast 92/92. The Trex is slightly larger but some have even had PTV issues on stock heads. If you don't have 1-7/8 american racing/kooks/LG headers already I would get them also.
With Yella terras, gaskets, pushrods, injectors, tune ect that's about $5500.
With Yella terras, gaskets, pushrods, injectors, tune ect that's about $5500.
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We are now able to setup the PRC 227's to clear the MS4 without flycutting, so for a max effort I'd go that route rather than the 215's!
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The rest of the mods currently are kooks 1 7/8 stepped headers, built M6 w/ MWC 9" with 4.56s a wavetrac and all the bells and whistles. Got a new walbrough, new fule lines, new rails, and 48# injectors, so i think my fuel system is good for an N/A setup.
would like to keep it "streetable" so i dont wanna go solid roller i do love to do my fair share of street racing.
I have thought about hitting up PatG or another motor guru and seeing about a custom spec'd cam also. It will pry depend on my phonecall to TSP. I dont mind being a TSP *****
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lets say i have 5250 to work with. Taking out some money for gas and a tune. a few things that need to be taken into consideratino.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
umm i think thats about it. i know in the grand scheme of things 5250 isnt much in the world of race parts, but id like to get the most out of it and finally get this dumb car finished lol
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
umm i think thats about it. i know in the grand scheme of things 5250 isnt much in the world of race parts, but id like to get the most out of it and finally get this dumb car finished lol
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[QUOTE=SS4Luck;13988897]lets say i have 5250 to work with. Taking out some money for gas and a tune. a few things that need to be taken into consideratino.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
Your forged pistons should have valve reliefs in them.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
Your forged pistons should have valve reliefs in them.
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ETP / PI / Mast 215-225 heads with 11.2-.4:1 compression. Not sure what intake you plan on running, but I'd have Geoff @ EPS spec you something nasty for a cam. Forged pistons should have valve reliefs like ss2000 stated. Since you're a fully forged engine you might as well turn some rpm 7500? Something 24x / 25x .63x + cam should rip.
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[QUOTE=ss2000;13989405] You took the words right out of my mouth,was going to post that but kept on reading the tread...glad I did.
OP,what pistons are you presently running in that forged bottom end?
lets say i have 5250 to work with. Taking out some money for gas and a tune. a few things that need to be taken into consideratino.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
Your forged pistons should have valve reliefs in them.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
Your forged pistons should have valve reliefs in them.
OP,what pistons are you presently running in that forged bottom end?
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lets say i have 5250 to work with. Taking out some money for gas and a tune. a few things that need to be taken into consideratino.
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
umm i think thats about it. i know in the grand scheme of things 5250 isnt much in the world of race parts, but id like to get the most out of it and finally get this dumb car finished lol
1) car HAS to run on 91, i love my street racing and have to drive pretty far to do it and i dont want to be shelling out $150 on race night to go have my fun. I dont have a trailor so the car has to get me places.
2) I really dont want to flycut my pistons, if were going to get into that much lift id pull the motor apart and put a set of dished pistons in. I just dont like the idea of doing that.
umm i think thats about it. i know in the grand scheme of things 5250 isnt much in the world of race parts, but id like to get the most out of it and finally get this dumb car finished lol
#16
Max efort 347 top end
I'd talk to Tommy at Anger management
Here's some of his work on a stock Bore, Stock bottom end vette
http://vettetrick.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=129
Here's some of his work on a stock Bore, Stock bottom end vette
http://vettetrick.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=129
#17
tea can make a tfs 225 small bore, fast 102 ported, custom cam, done deal. I would definetly look into the tfs 225 small bore head, no extra charge, better flow #'s especially midlift. I would prefer the tfs head over a worked over set of afr's. 2400 for tfs, 3200-3500 for worked over afr. tfs still has the #'s
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well, max effort really doesn't go with what you are describing imo... I would consider mine closer to max effort, and it's not exactly cheap, the two dont go hand in hand... Max effort 347 is going to run at least 10 grand in parts......
and I wouldn't be running box stock anything, whether it be a trick flow or a prc.... custom cam for sure. Hell buy a couple different custom cams and do some dyno testing to see what works best, thats what we did.
and I wouldn't be running box stock anything, whether it be a trick flow or a prc.... custom cam for sure. Hell buy a couple different custom cams and do some dyno testing to see what works best, thats what we did.
#20
well, max effort really doesn't go with what you are describing imo... I would consider mine closer to max effort, and it's not exactly cheap, the two dont go hand in hand... Max effort 347 is going to run at least 10 grand in parts......
and I wouldn't be running box stock anything, whether it be a trick flow or a prc.... custom cam for sure. Hell buy a couple different custom cams and do some dyno testing to see what works best, thats what we did.
and I wouldn't be running box stock anything, whether it be a trick flow or a prc.... custom cam for sure. Hell buy a couple different custom cams and do some dyno testing to see what works best, thats what we did.
also rob z in the video above had some TFS heads too...I was told by tea he also had Ti valves...