Re-use Main, head, rod bolts in rebuild?
#1
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I purchased a "rebuilt" LS1 recently, and after some inspection I suspected the last owner re-used the original main, head and rod bolts during the rebuild, which he confirmed after the purchase. Engine is yet to be installed, and is destined for a street car (No more than 450 crank HP).
I'm not familiar enough with these engines to know which bolts are TTY, but I thought at least the rod bolts were.
1. Do I have to replace all these fasteners, and virtually re-build the shortblock?
2. If so, can I just replace bolt for bolt, or do I have to tear everything down and reassemble in proper order?
-Tim
I'm not familiar enough with these engines to know which bolts are TTY, but I thought at least the rod bolts were.
1. Do I have to replace all these fasteners, and virtually re-build the shortblock?
2. If so, can I just replace bolt for bolt, or do I have to tear everything down and reassemble in proper order?
-Tim
#2
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The rod and main bolts are likely just fine if torqued properly. They are not torque-to-yield like a headbolt is, but rather use a similar torque-angle tightening procedure. The head bolts I would replace as they actually are stretched in the torque-to-yield procedure, there is only so much they can go before breaking... You can replace one at a time in the torque sequence. Although I would probably tend to check over the rest of the work if the head bolts were reused.....
#4
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if you just use oem replacements, it shouldn't be too expensive to replace all the bolts.
add some arp rod bolts for extra insurance though, especially if it's going to be beat on atleast a little bit.
add some arp rod bolts for extra insurance though, especially if it's going to be beat on atleast a little bit.
#5
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You only have to replace the head bolts. Pull and replace them one at a time and your gaskets will be fine. However, if he cut corners like that, what else did he do wrong? Resuing factory head bolts is a known big no-no.
#7
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I would leave them as is. Lots of people re-use the head bolts. If they are already in they are not going to break. If they were going to its when they were being torqued.
It may not be "right" but ive havnt broke one... 2 different 600+hp turbo engines with stock re-used bolts. Why? Just to do it and say I did and it worked.
It may not be "right" but ive havnt broke one... 2 different 600+hp turbo engines with stock re-used bolts. Why? Just to do it and say I did and it worked.
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#8
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the rod and main bolts are likely just fine if torqued properly. They are not torque-to-yield like a headbolt is, but rather use a similar torque-angle tightening procedure. The head bolts i would replace as they actually are stretched in the torque-to-yield procedure, there is only so much they can go before breaking... You can replace one at a time in the torque sequence.
+1...
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Wannabe Tech (08-08-2023)
#15
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i would leave them as is. Lots of people re-use the head bolts. If they are already in they are not going to break. If they were going to its when they were being torqued.
It may not be "right" but ive havnt broke one... 2 different 600+hp turbo engines with stock re-used bolts. Why? Just to do it and say i did and it worked.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
It may not be "right" but ive havnt broke one... 2 different 600+hp turbo engines with stock re-used bolts. Why? Just to do it and say i did and it worked.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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I am going through this same thing, just found out the mechanic reused TTY head bolts on my car. That would probably be why the head gaskets were both leaking...definitely don't skimp on those.
#17