Parts for turbo ls1
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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Parts for turbo ls1 Hi, i had a rod bearing go out on my ls1, so now have the whole engine apart and it has got me wanting to do a little more than just replacing the crank(being that its no good anymore) and bearing, i've found a turbo setup pretty cheap on ebay (turbo headers & y pipe) , and also want to bore out the block about .30 over, and buy some low compression pistons, i just don't know what cam would be great for a single turbo application, if anybody can help with links or as to what parts will also help out, i will appreciate it, and also what pistons would be great, thanks in advance!
The LS6/LS9 cams are pretty popular choices for FI cams. Otherwise, talk to Pat G and he can spec out a great cam for your needs. I went with Diamond -8.6cc dished pistons. I got them for around $625 shipped and I'm sure you can find a good deal on them if you look hard as well. Diamond seems to be a pretty popular choice with the turbo guys. Everything is dependent on your power goals. I'm going with Scat I-beam connecting rods because I don't plan on ever pushing the power past 700rwhp.
Also, I'm not an expert on blocks and boring but if I remember right, '98 blocks cannot be bored over that much. If your plan is FI, just do a stock cubed rebuild. You'll want different heads as well.
Talk with Texas Speed and WS6store. They can help you out with a lot of parts questions. Also, remember that small items are going to use up a ton of your budget. Lifters, gaskets, bearings, etc... When my motor went out, I never even fathomed the amount of money needed to do a forged rebuild. And my rebuild is a LOT cheaper than most.
Also, I'm not an expert on blocks and boring but if I remember right, '98 blocks cannot be bored over that much. If your plan is FI, just do a stock cubed rebuild. You'll want different heads as well.
Talk with Texas Speed and WS6store. They can help you out with a lot of parts questions. Also, remember that small items are going to use up a ton of your budget. Lifters, gaskets, bearings, etc... When my motor went out, I never even fathomed the amount of money needed to do a forged rebuild. And my rebuild is a LOT cheaper than most.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
Any boost cam that is properly spec'd typically is a standard split, low lift (under .600) on a "high" lsa (typically between 113-118 degrees).
I've never heard of the 98' blocks not being able to be bored, but hopefully someone will chime in and verify.
As for the Ebay turbo, normally those are a bit scetchy but, to each his own. I personally, would never put that crap on my car, but thats just my opinion. Turbo wont last, the couplers being blown and ripped is fairly common from what I hear, but hey you never know, maybe you'll get lucky. Just have a reputable shop fab up some manifolds and replace the turbo every couple of months, not that you'll have a choice.
I've never heard of the 98' blocks not being able to be bored, but hopefully someone will chime in and verify.
As for the Ebay turbo, normally those are a bit scetchy but, to each his own. I personally, would never put that crap on my car, but thats just my opinion. Turbo wont last, the couplers being blown and ripped is fairly common from what I hear, but hey you never know, maybe you'll get lucky. Just have a reputable shop fab up some manifolds and replace the turbo every couple of months, not that you'll have a choice.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
Just FYI, if price is a concern, you might want to consider a LQ9/L92 build. The LQ9 blocks float around for fairly cheap, especially around here. Some members have scooped up assembled blocks for $600. The L92/L76 top end will run you around 2000 done properly, and a cam will run you under $400, you wont need PRs or springs as the L92 heads mostly come with PRC springs anyways and chromoly pushrods anyways, at least from the vendors. Oil and pump and timing chain together should be under $400 together. And if you need to, you can stroke the block. Just another option to put into perspective. An NA build will run cheaper than boost normally and you will make similar power.
Just sayin'
Just sayin'
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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Hmmm. funny you should say that, at first N/A was my original option, but i came across this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-02...Q5fAccessories
(it does not include the turbo) and kind of changed my mind, and as u mentioned, if i were to pick up a LQ9 block and bore it i would still have to spend on the pistons? would it be cheaper to just work on LS1 block i have? if N/A what setup would you recommend and would it be better than turbo application?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-02...Q5fAccessories
(it does not include the turbo) and kind of changed my mind, and as u mentioned, if i were to pick up a LQ9 block and bore it i would still have to spend on the pistons? would it be cheaper to just work on LS1 block i have? if N/A what setup would you recommend and would it be better than turbo application?
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 46
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
Well, the main reason why people get LQ9 blocks, is because they plan on stroking it. So if you go that route than ya you would be changing pistons. But you dont have to stroke it. Personally I think youd be better off with the LQ9 as opposed to the LS1. But it might be cheaper to work on the block you have. What are your goals? Is this your DD? Budget? How much HP are you expecting/wanting?
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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well i would like to have it as a daily driver, but also have other cars so i don't have to use all the time maybe bout 3 to 4 days of the week, and am on a budget, so i guess pretty much looking for the cheapest way to get about 500 to 600 hp would be great, thanks for the replies
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Verdad Gallardo I was wrong, the stock bore is 3.898 (I thought it was 3.890 for some reason) so you could get it bored .005-.007 over. With a stock crank this will give you 347 c.i., or with a 4.00" stroker crank you get 383 cubes.
