Help needed with Crank Position Sensor
Help needed with Crank Position Sensor The Story:
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.
The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank
Here A Vid of the idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbsWFe6ji8E
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.
The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank
Here A Vid of the idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbsWFe6ji8E
Last edited by w06gto; Nov 9, 2010 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Added info
I have not preformed crank relearn on the car i was told it doesn't need to be done unless you change PCM
Thanks in advance
Frank
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Shoot me your name you ordered the rotating kit under....I'd like to check on that crank and see if there's any chance the reluctor wheel could have been on there backwards (or you can check it visually if you take the pan off).
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Got your PM, Frank, and shot you one back.
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^^Yea, we verified that one...brand new GM 3.622" 24x crank....I was hoping it'd be that easy!
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Yea, I hear ya...like I said, I was really hoping it was going to be that easy!
A reluctor on backwards we have seen them just fire 4 cylinders of the 8 (1, 4, 6, and 7 or the other 4)...so no joy there either
A reluctor on backwards we have seen them just fire 4 cylinders of the 8 (1, 4, 6, and 7 or the other 4)...so no joy there either
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Last edited by Sales2@Texas-speed; Nov 3, 2010 at 10:43 AM.
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Acording to Elkyss, conditions for code , voltage is out of range for less than two seconds. It is a 12 volt sensor. If you have tried a new sensor and the reluctor wheel is undamaged then i am assuming maybe you pinched a wire and it gets low voltage for at least part of the time. That possibly could be the computer not puting out the correct voltage.
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
Acording to Elkyss, conditions for code , voltage is out of range for less than two seconds. It is a 12 volt sensor. If you have tried a new sensor and the reluctor wheel is undamaged then i am assuming maybe you pinched a wire and it gets low voltage for at least part of the time. That possibly could be the computer not puting out the correct voltage.
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
It is a 1999 Z28 Texas Speed rotating assembly, MS3 Cam, Stock 853 Heads milled 30 thousands, All new bolts gaskets pretty much new engine, and Texas speed mail order tune for the pcm that i got just to get it running and idling
What wire should read the voltage the green which is ignition voltage/ the blue wire witch is crank position signal/ or the yellow which is ref low?
I also changed the sensor with an after market one from discount auto parts
Last edited by w06gto; Nov 3, 2010 at 10:50 AM.
The Story:
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.
The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.
The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank
Even if all the paper work say 24x on them doesnt mean that you dont have the 58x wheel. My crank came from Callies delivered from Scoggin Dickies, the box said 24x and my reciept said 24x well guess what. it was 58x it looked like a bike sprocket lots of teeth. you can visually inspect it with out taking the pan off.
disconnect the battery, drop starter, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the crank position sensor in, use a mirror with a flash light to look in the hole. You will tell right away, 58x has lots of teeth like a bike sprockets, 24x has long sperated teeth.
Not trying to bash anyone on here with that post either, o and no one was willing to work things out either!
Last edited by RsSean; Nov 3, 2010 at 10:46 AM.
^^That's not the best or a full-proof test We've seen them fire #1, 4, 6, and 7 with the wrong wheel on there....we've also seen them fire the other 4 and not fire those.
We've seen them fire #1, 4, 6, and 7 with the wrong wheel on there....we've also seen them fire the other 4 and not fire those.
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COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!