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ss3600 or ss4000?

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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:16 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
SS4000 FTMFW.

damn son...racecar

if only on the street I agree ss3600 and you will still have problems hooking...if you are ever going to take it to the track with some sticky rubber on back ss4000 will be the best...see sig
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
damn son...racecar

if only on the street I agree ss3600 and you will still have problems hooking...if you are ever going to take it to the track with some sticky rubber on back ss4000 will be the best...see sig
Maybe someday I'll teach you how to do that...
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 12:37 AM
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I couldn't decide between the two either so I had Yank build me a SS3800. I daily my car 50 miles a day and the split of street and highway is almost 50/50. I get 18mpg average almost every tank and I am not the lightest on the throttle. I also have to add I do not mind whatsoever daily-ing this high of a stall. I went from a Yank PYE3400 that I could only stall to 2600 or so at the track on DR's, it was a much much tighter stall and I am still far happier and didn't really notice much of a change in fuel mileage at all. Fuel mileage is really dependant on your right foot. The SS line of stalls are very efficient.

I recommend the 3800 myself, and BTW I also have 3.73's. If you don't drive on sticky tires be ready to be sideways a lot!

EDIT: I just re-read your original post, that is a huge cam, if you are concerned about street you should go with a smaller cam.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:30 AM
  #24  
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i already have a smaller cam, but since im rebuilding my motor i just wanna go bigger. i have a 3500 stall now but i think a yank will be better.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:59 AM
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man, i really want to step up to a 4k stall. But i just cant see myself even hooking up with a 4k stall. I have a vig 3200, and 3.73 and it drives nice and smooth and still hits pretty damn hard.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
man, i really want to step up to a 4k stall. But i just cant see myself even hooking up with a 4k stall. I have a vig 3200, and 3.73 and it drives nice and smooth and still hits pretty damn hard.
It does create difficulty getting traction, last time at the track I was having trouble hooking out of the hole on brand new MT Drags... And thats with a stock long block, no spray no nothing..
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
It does create difficulty getting traction, last time at the track I was having trouble hooking out of the hole on brand new MT Drags... And thats with a stock long block, no spray no nothing..
I'd work on your chassis tune up then.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
I'd work on your chassis tune up then.
Oh that could definately be improved. Right now it only has stock struts/shocks, Eibach Pro Kit front springs and cut stock rear springs, however it does have Edelbrock Panhard rod, Lakewood boxed LCA's, Relocation brackets, and poly TQ arm mount. I realize the parts on it do not do a whole lot for traction... I need adj shocks, better/adj TQ arm, springs.. then it should hook pretty good.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
SS4000 FTMFW.

Stock wheels and all, I like.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dirty vegas
ss4000 ftmfw.


very nice!
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Ss4000 .
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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For the street 3600....I love mine and DD it with no problems and get decent gas mileage...
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
I'd work on your chassis tune up then.
Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Oh that could definately be improved. Right now it only has stock struts/shocks, Eibach Pro Kit front springs and cut stock rear springs, however it does have Edelbrock Panhard rod, Lakewood boxed LCA's, Relocation brackets, and poly TQ arm mount. I realize the parts on it do not do a whole lot for traction... I need adj shocks, better/adj TQ arm, springs.. then it should hook pretty good.
Dirty Vegas, can you give me some suggestions on how to improve my chassis setup, I need bang for buck options and I provided a list above of what is currently done. My goal is to pull a wheel if not 2 (very optomistic with my current mods), I would love to be able to do what your car is doing in your pic, I think I am leaving a lot on table suspension wise but at the same time it is a daily driver and I am stock long block.. but.. I do have some of the best of bolt on's, a really good tune, and I believe I could at least skate the left front at minimum with the proper "chasis tune" but I really do not know what that is "per se". What I mean is, can you recommend a susp setup that I can daily drive yet yield much better E.T. and 60 ft's without dropping a couple grand on the setup. If I simply cannot pull a wheel on stock long block I will accept it, but one of my goals is to pull the left front at minimum if not both fronts, on stock long block, and still be a very dependable daily.

Yes I realize I am asking for too much all together and a person can normally only pick 2 out of 3 options available, such as..... chep, reliable, fast.... but again as usual I want it all. So based on that I bought a Yank SS3800 instead of a cheapo..... etc.. etc... I want to pull wheels without increasing the displacement of the engine and without going max effort on the suspension. I realize that, that may not be possible but its what I am looking for.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 98sunsetmetSS
For the street 3600....I love mine and DD it with no problems and get decent gas mileage...
I think for the most part what we have going for us is that Yank builds a very efficient stall and we do not lose very much MPG. But!!.... I do know that lower quality/cheaper stalls suffer a lot MPG wise. I get 18 MPG on average with a very close to 50/50 split of highway and street driving
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Dirty Vegas, can you give me some suggestions on how to improve my chassis setup, I need bang for buck options and I provided a list above of what is currently done. My goal is to pull a wheel if not 2 (very optomistic with my current mods), I would love to be able to do what your car is doing in your pic, I think I am leaving a lot on table suspension wise but at the same time it is a daily driver and I am stock long block.. but.. I do have some of the best of bolt on's, a really good tune, and I believe I could at least skate the left front at minimum with the proper "chasis tune" but I really do not know what that is "per se". What I mean is, can you recommend a susp setup that I can daily drive yet yield much better E.T. and 60 ft's without dropping a couple grand on the setup. If I simply cannot pull a wheel on stock long block I will accept it, but one of my goals is to pull the left front at minimum if not both fronts, on stock long block, and still be a very dependable daily.

Yes I realize I am asking for too much all together and a person can normally only pick 2 out of 3 options available, such as..... chep, reliable, fast.... but again as usual I want it all. So based on that I bought a Yank SS3800 instead of a cheapo..... etc.. etc... I want to pull wheels without increasing the displacement of the engine and without going max effort on the suspension. I realize that, that may not be possible but its what I am looking for.
That is an easily attainable goal. Do as much weight reduction up front as you are comfortable with. I've done no cutting in the front. I have unbolted anything unnecessary. I've deleted the entire HVAC system. You can keep that if you wish and lose weight elsewhere. I have a stock K-member, A-arms, and wheels, you could keep your HVAC and replace those instead. Lose the front sway bar.

Suspension is where you gotta put the dough. That is what lets me put my 300rwhp to the tire. I'm going 1.50 60's on a 255/50/16 ET Street Radial. Yes, that's a tiny tire. I have QA1's up front with 275lb springs. In the rear, I have 1 QA1 on the passenger side, and one stock 125k mile shock on the other (bought 'em used and the guy fucked me by not telling me the **** was seized on one of the shocks).

Spohn 25mm solid rear sway bar which straightened my car out a lot. I was getting a pretty violent drivers side lift before I threw this on. Front rises much more evenly.

Pavlock aluminum lower control arms. I actually need to adjust those. We just matched them to the length of the factory LCA's and that has gotten me by, but this spring I'm going to get the rear completely centered in the car. I think I have a pretty amazing list of stock parts. Stock panhard, stock torque arm, stock 10 bolt. Oh, and take a look at Larry from Speed Inc's LT1 Camaro. He drives it 80 miles out to the track with a full suspension under it. I know he has much better lower control arms than I do.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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^ aftermarket rear shocks??? what are those for
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
^ aftermarket rear shocks??? what are those for
You really need at least one. Duh.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
You really need at least one. Duh.
haha I better get one then...
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:21 PM
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hey chrs1313 what is your rear susp setup? I assume by you comment you are on stock rear shocks?

And thank you Dirty Vegas for the detailed description that is really helpful.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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stock internal all I had was a rear airlift drag bag in the passenger rear spring, lca's, and sfc...pulled 1.54 with a smaller 3600 stall and 3365rw...

went cam only and needed a bunch of other mods

body mount tq arm, rear drag bar, qa1r front shocks with 275 springs, 12 bolt with 4.10s although the 10 bolt did last 10 or so passes with a 1.38 60ft...

yup still on stock rear shocks and springs
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