dont make sense
some times when u let off the throttle after a wot pass it smokes then clears up.
when its at idle after it warms up to temp u can remove the oil cap and see blow by.
pvc has been removed and just left open.
ran a compresion test highest reading was 200 lowest reading was 180.
any ideas?
u cant really tell what color the smoke is also the plugs show no signs of burning oil
Last edited by slolt1; Dec 26, 2010 at 11:10 PM.
Second, any high mileage engine with have some smoke here and there. Everything is worn out.
The high RPM also puts more oil in the heads than normal running.
On a high mileage 10 year old engine I would look at valve stem seals first.
they are cheap and moderately easy to change compared to the other things that might create your smoke.
I would do an accurate leak down test on all 8 cylinders first and if I found no trouble I'd replace the seals.
Bad stem seals usually exhibit other symptoms that you did not describe.
After idleing for a bit you'll usually get a "puff" of smoke at throttle tip in.
Sometimes it will smoke at start up and clear after the engine gets warm. This is more noticable during the winter months when it's cold out.
I'd run the normal PCV system in a car used as a daily driver. Normal PCV systems do not activate at WOT as manifold vacuum should be below the PCV activation point.
On a high mileage car the valve guides themselves may be worn to the point they are contributing to the problem. Fixing these requires full teardown of the heads and machine work.
Putting new seals on partially worn out guides should reduce the problem dramatically; they just will not last as long as new seals on fresh guides.
If I was at the point of replacing the guides I'd be doing a "full on" head with port work and other mods.
You have to determine what "color" the smoke is. It's usually easy. Excess fuel is dark (almost black) and water consumption is brillant white and dissipates instantly. Oil consumption (which is what I believe your reporting) is dirty white, maybe a bit gray or blue-ish and lingers in the air. I can also tell the difference by smell. Trust your senses, they are better than you think.
Hope this helps
Rick
The high RPM also puts more oil in the heads than normal running.
On a high mileage 10 year old engine I would look at valve stem seals first.
they are cheap and moderately easy to change compared to the other things that might create your smoke.
I would do an accurate leak down test on all 8 cylinders first and if I found no trouble I'd replace the seals.
Bad stem seals usually exhibit other symptoms that you did not describe.
After idleing for a bit you'll usually get a "puff" of smoke at throttle tip in.
Sometimes it will smoke at start up and clear after the engine gets warm. This is more noticable during the winter months when it's cold out.
I'd run the normal PCV system in a car used as a daily driver. Normal PCV systems do not activate at WOT as manifold vacuum should be below the PCV activation point.
On a high mileage car the valve guides themselves may be worn to the point they are contributing to the problem. Fixing these requires full teardown of the heads and machine work.
Putting new seals on partially worn out guides should reduce the problem dramatically; they just will not last as long as new seals on fresh guides.
If I was at the point of replacing the guides I'd be doing a "full on" head with port work and other mods.
You have to determine what "color" the smoke is. It's usually easy. Excess fuel is dark (almost black) and water consumption is brillant white and dissipates instantly. Oil consumption (which is what I believe your reporting) is dirty white, maybe a bit gray or blue-ish and lingers in the air. I can also tell the difference by smell. Trust your senses, they are better than you think.
Hope this helps
Rick
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