LS7 Lifters?
LS7 Lifters? Where would YOU buy LS7 lifters from? I put in a new eps 226/230 113+2 LSA on a 112K mile motor. So now I decided to upgrade with LS7 lifters. But where should I buy them?
Any thoughts? Thanks. If not the ls7's, what would YOU use?
Any thoughts? Thanks. If not the ls7's, what would YOU use?
What exactly is the advantage of the LS7 lifters? Do you need different length pushrods for them? I have my motor apart right now and figure for the $125 I might do them, but I'd like to know exactly why people swap them out over stock lifters.
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LS7 lifters are the current GM OEM replacement for LS engines. They are hydraulic. They can require a different length push rod because their effective length is siightly different from the the stock lifters than came in the various LS series engines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...er-length.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...er-length.html
LS7 lifters are the current GM OEM replacement for LS engines. They are hydraulic. They can require a different length push rod because their effective length is siightly different from the the stock lifters than came in the various LS series engines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...er-length.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...er-length.html
OK, but why change to LS7 lifters. Or are they just a replacement if you have bad ones. My stock lifters look to be in perfect shape, so I'm not gonna spend $125 that I don't need to if the LS7 ones aren't really better.
The difference basically is new lifters, stronger, and since ls7 lifters are safety taken past 6500rpms, it's a no brainier. You don't HAVE to change them, but if someone has the motor apart, might as well since they are not very expensive and it's a good thing to replace.
^^^ good point, curious as well. In my case im a little afraid to go to dual valve springs as to not stress the stock lifters, on the other hand im afraid to run a 918 and break it. not to mention my valvetrain is very quiet right now and Id love to just not change anything and not mess up the pushrod length
No reason to change them unless you already have the motor apart and are doing performance mods I would say though. Also as mentioned above about noise, they really aren't much different from stock. Yes they are noisier, you can hear it more before the engine warms up but you won't hear it over your exhaust or anything, so it shouldn't matter ahah
ok so if the thing runs great, hauls *****, and has no current issues at all at 95k miles you would go ahead with some dual valve springs for my piece of mind and not pop a head to chase a nonexistent problem correct? I guess if nothing else if I kill the lifters ill be going into the thing anyway. sounds like i dont have much to loose come to think about it
I would say if your changing springs, I would change the lifters at that mileage. If you weren't doing mods or taking it apart I would say don't worry about it, but since your in the 100k mark and your going to be changing springs anyways, I would say get the ls7 lifters for piece of mind and not worry about it ever again.
ok, ill think long and hard about it. Technically im not allowed to work on the car (part of the deal I could buy it) but obviously springs are a necessity and ill be doing those at a buddies house. Thats the only real reason for skimping on it to this point
Yea If your going to change the springs, just wait till you have the money and everything all set that you can buy some ls7 lifters with them. You'll thank yourself down the road when you accidentally hit 7000rpms from not watching the speedo and realize with your old stock ones that might not have ended well.
Yea, so don't forget head gaskets to lol. And ls7 lifters are SLIGHTLY shorter as said above, so you will also need to change the pushrods. After you put the lifters in, measure to see what size pushrod you need, usually its smaller I believe.
if you have STOCK heads, why in the sam hell would you change the valvesprings and lifters and pushrods?
You DO all that AFTER you bend a pushrod or break a valve.
Save your money. You will see NO gain of ANYTHING.
Use that money on go-fast parts.
Headers. Y pipe, catback.
How is it part of the deal where you dont work on it? Please explain.
Thanks
You DO all that AFTER you bend a pushrod or break a valve.
Save your money. You will see NO gain of ANYTHING.
Use that money on go-fast parts.
Headers. Y pipe, catback.
How is it part of the deal where you dont work on it? Please explain.
Thanks