Blown Head Gasket ::Need Advice::
02-10-2011, 01:37 AM
#41
Im thinking this could be your whole problem. Try doing a compression test on your motor. If you have oil on your sparkplug you could have a bad ring. You need to do a compression test.
1. Get a compression test gauge and fitting for your sparkplug hole.
2. Disconect your fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay.
3. Pull ur spark plugs
4. Screw your compression test gauge into the spark plug hole
5. Let the engine crank over 4-5 times and watch the gauge. Your number should be between 130-160. Pay close attention to the cylnder that had oil on the spark plug. If it is low like 115 or less than poor a little oil in the cylnder, screw your gauge back in, crank the car 4-5 times and watch ur gauge. If your numbers went up, than you have a bad piston ring. If the number stayed the same and is still low, you need to check the heads...
1. Get a compression test gauge and fitting for your sparkplug hole.
2. Disconect your fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay.
3. Pull ur spark plugs
4. Screw your compression test gauge into the spark plug hole
5. Let the engine crank over 4-5 times and watch the gauge. Your number should be between 130-160. Pay close attention to the cylnder that had oil on the spark plug. If it is low like 115 or less than poor a little oil in the cylnder, screw your gauge back in, crank the car 4-5 times and watch ur gauge. If your numbers went up, than you have a bad piston ring. If the number stayed the same and is still low, you need to check the heads...
02-10-2011, 02:03 AM
#42
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dude u really got me scratchin the ol noggin. i really think its valve seals. thats what id do first. doesnt sound likes its very bad though. im guessing you havent had any coolant loss and we can definitely for sure rule out head gasket
02-11-2011, 05:43 AM
#45
02-11-2011, 11:57 AM
#48
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phx the cactus patch
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
13 Posts
Yes , oil in a cylinder could possibly cause a knock , it would have to be alot of oil , at least 60 or 70 cc's , and the knock sensor is sensative to knocks in a certain frequency range only . So I don't believe it would detect the type of knock You were thinking . And if there were that much oil in a cylinder , what would happen would be what is called hydraulic-ing a piston , or rather a rod would bend as fluids don't compress . And if that happened it would then permanently knock on the crank , the bottom of the piston that is . Good luck
02-11-2011, 12:14 PM
#49
great info...I don't believe it's burning or leaking that much oil since the oil level doesn't drop dramatically by the time i reach the 3000 mile mark...here's to hoping its nothing as bad as a bent rod..thanks for your input..much appreciated
02-11-2011, 12:19 PM
#50
12 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: 5.0
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes , oil in a cylinder could possibly cause a knock , it would have to be alot of oil , at least 60 or 70 cc's , and the knock sensor is sensative to knocks in a certain frequency range only . So I don't believe it would detect the type of knock You were thinking . And if there were that much oil in a cylinder , what would happen would be what is called hydraulic-ing a piston , or rather a rod would bend as fluids don't compress . And if that happened it would then permanently knock on the crank , the bottom of the piston that is . Good luck
02-12-2011, 12:06 AM
#51
Restricted User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If this wur the problem I beleive you would have oil on more than one spark plug. Have you done a conpression test yet? Im still guessing that you have a bad ring on #7 letting oil into the cylnder. Oil on the sparkplug is not normal and you need to start there. Get the comression test done real quick. Atleast test the compression on the cylnder with oil on the plug. It will take 10 mins.....
02-12-2011, 12:59 AM
#52
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ft. Worth
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Compression test first of all! Do it cold as you need the experience before trying it hot. Your looking for large deviations here. Do all 8.
Best method: with a battery charger attached to car to reduce the battery drain that usually produces lower readings on the last cylinders. Another running car with jumper cables can substitute for a battery charger.
Remove all of the plugs.
Disable the ignition/fuel. Jam throttle open.
Spin engine over while watching the gauge. In your case it would be easier to have a helper in the car turning it over and holding the throttle open. I usually count 10 "hits" then stop. Write figure down. I use a dry erase marker on the windsheild.
Test the other cylinders with the same number of "hits" on each. Watch how fast the reading come up. Usually the needle stops gaining after 4-6 hits. Have a slow one? You may be seeing the beginnings of a problem.
Compare readings. Post results on here.
Remove throttle block BEFORE putting car back together. Trust me on this! Even I have forgotten about the throttle being open...
ONLY ONCE!
If your using a helper this will not be a problem.
If you find issues with the compression test you will not have wasted time and money "repairing" other things that were not the root cause. "Throwing money" at a problem usually doesn't fix it.
If you don't have a comp tester already you may NOT be a tech. Think hard about having someone more knowledgeable diagnosing the car. You may be money ahead!
My tool box(s) weighs FAR more than my car and I have more money in tools than I have in my house. The wallet vampires (Snap-On/Matco tool dealers) know me well.
It's addictive if your really a tech.
If I won the lottery I would still wrench on stuff. The "stuff" would be more expensive.....
Only after a good comp test would you look for other reasons....
Next stop would be PCV system. New valve and connection check.
ASE double master-Automotive/Machinist.
Diagnose first!
Then spend money..... do cheaper PM type stuff first. You'll be pissed if you change the stem seals in the car and it turns out to be a bad PCV. I believe in AC/Delco parts for these cars if possible. Seen too many "oh this part will work" screw ups to try and save chump change...
Your next post should include comp readings.
Good luck!
Best method: with a battery charger attached to car to reduce the battery drain that usually produces lower readings on the last cylinders. Another running car with jumper cables can substitute for a battery charger.
Remove all of the plugs.
Disable the ignition/fuel. Jam throttle open.
Spin engine over while watching the gauge. In your case it would be easier to have a helper in the car turning it over and holding the throttle open. I usually count 10 "hits" then stop. Write figure down. I use a dry erase marker on the windsheild.
Test the other cylinders with the same number of "hits" on each. Watch how fast the reading come up. Usually the needle stops gaining after 4-6 hits. Have a slow one? You may be seeing the beginnings of a problem.
Compare readings. Post results on here.
Remove throttle block BEFORE putting car back together. Trust me on this! Even I have forgotten about the throttle being open...
ONLY ONCE!If your using a helper this will not be a problem.
If you find issues with the compression test you will not have wasted time and money "repairing" other things that were not the root cause. "Throwing money" at a problem usually doesn't fix it.
If you don't have a comp tester already you may NOT be a tech. Think hard about having someone more knowledgeable diagnosing the car. You may be money ahead!
My tool box(s) weighs FAR more than my car and I have more money in tools than I have in my house. The wallet vampires (Snap-On/Matco tool dealers) know me well.
It's addictive if your really a tech.
If I won the lottery I would still wrench on stuff. The "stuff" would be more expensive.....
Only after a good comp test would you look for other reasons....
Next stop would be PCV system. New valve and connection check.
ASE double master-Automotive/Machinist.
Diagnose first!
Then spend money..... do cheaper PM type stuff first. You'll be pissed if you change the stem seals in the car and it turns out to be a bad PCV. I believe in AC/Delco parts for these cars if possible. Seen too many "oh this part will work" screw ups to try and save chump change...
Your next post should include comp readings.
Good luck!
