i'll check up on this and find out where i can get a kit or something to do a compression test and post up the results

 

dude u really got me scratchin the ol noggin. i really think its valve seals. thats what id do first. doesnt sound likes its very bad though. im guessing you havent had any coolant loss and we can definitely for sure rule out head gasket

 

ok valve seals, new valve cover gaskets and a compression test will be the first things I'll do

 

sounds good let us know how it goes

 

Hey guys , a improperly working pcv valve will allow the oil to seep past the rings whether or not the rings are bad . Put a new pcv valve in they are what 3 4 bucks .

 

yup and oil in that cylinder may cause a knock so that sensor might be actually working

 

cool...i'll be adding pcv valve to to my list of parts...i'll be replacing it on sunday hopefully...i'll keep you guys posted.

 

Yes , oil in a cylinder could possibly cause a knock , it would have to be alot of oil , at least 60 or 70 cc's , and the knock sensor is sensative to knocks in a certain frequency range only . So I don't believe it would detect the type of knock You were thinking . And if there were that much oil in a cylinder , what would happen would be what is called hydraulic-ing a piston , or rather a rod would bend as fluids don't compress . And if that happened it would then permanently knock on the crank , the bottom of the piston that is . Good luck

 

great info...I don't believe it's burning or leaking that much oil since the oil level doesn't drop dramatically by the time i reach the 3000 mile mark...here's to hoping its nothing as bad as a bent rod..thanks for your input..much appreciated

 

I was thinking it would cause detonation or pre-ignition due to excessive burnt oil that would be built up on the surface of the piston and chamber. also loss of octane of the mixture.

 

If this wur the problem I beleive you would have oil on more than one spark plug. Have you done a conpression test yet? Im still guessing that you have a bad ring on #7 letting oil into the cylnder. Oil on the sparkplug is not normal and you need to start there. Get the comression test done real quick. Atleast test the compression on the cylnder with oil on the plug. It will take 10 mins.....

 

Compression test first of all! Do it cold as you need the experience before trying it hot. Your looking for large deviations here. Do all 8.

Best method: with a battery charger attached to car to reduce the battery drain that usually produces lower readings on the last cylinders. Another running car with jumper cables can substitute for a battery charger.
Remove all of the plugs.
Disable the ignition/fuel. Jam throttle open.
Spin engine over while watching the gauge. In your case it would be easier to have a helper in the car turning it over and holding the throttle open. I usually count 10 "hits" then stop. Write figure down. I use a dry erase marker on the windsheild.
Test the other cylinders with the same number of "hits" on each. Watch how fast the reading come up. Usually the needle stops gaining after 4-6 hits. Have a slow one? You may be seeing the beginnings of a problem.
Compare readings. Post results on here.

Remove throttle block BEFORE putting car back together. Trust me on this! Even I have forgotten about the throttle being open... ONLY ONCE!
If your using a helper this will not be a problem.

If you find issues with the compression test you will not have wasted time and money "repairing" other things that were not the root cause. "Throwing money" at a problem usually doesn't fix it.

If you don't have a comp tester already you may NOT be a tech. Think hard about having someone more knowledgeable diagnosing the car. You may be money ahead!
My tool box(s) weighs FAR more than my car and I have more money in tools than I have in my house. The wallet vampires (Snap-On/Matco tool dealers) know me well.
It's addictive if your really a tech.
If I won the lottery I would still wrench on stuff. The "stuff" would be more expensive.....

Only after a good comp test would you look for other reasons....
Next stop would be PCV system. New valve and connection check.

ASE double master-Automotive/Machinist.

Diagnose first!
Then spend money..... do cheaper PM type stuff first. You'll be pissed if you change the stem seals in the car and it turns out to be a bad PCV. I believe in AC/Delco parts for these cars if possible. Seen too many "oh this part will work" screw ups to try and save chump change...

Your next post should include comp readings.
Good luck!

 

I really already said all that^^^^, but ok