-Q-

iTrader: (10)

All those things would bolt right onto an LQ4 or even an LQ9 block. Would be worth a decent power increase...not too late for you to make the change!

Unfortunately...and that's why it won't be getting drag radials anytime soon. It was just rebuilt when I got the car (sounded like a plane taking off before), so hopefully it'll last a little while until I can get a 9".

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

I also got my new front filler plate from Afterthoughts Auto today...no more ugly front plate!

SupahRich

iTrader: (14)

I know what you mean, a friend of mine picked up a front filler plate for my '98 from a junk yard for $4.11 . It's one of the best appearance 'mods' I've done to date!

I found an '04 LQ4 short block that appears to be in great shape, didn't smoke or anything before being pulled according to the seller. Only thing is that it has 120K miles and piston slap. From what I've been reading though, piston slap doesn't prevent most guys on here doing heads/cam to their LS motors. The guy said there was no metallic shavings in the oil or anything when it was pulled.

I haven't got to experience the piston slap on either my old '99 or current '98 so I can't say first hand if there's been any reliability concerns.

How are you liking the poly mounts so far?

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

I guess to me it would depend on how bad the slap is. I had a different '01 several years ago that slapped when cold, but went away after it warmed up. I hardly have any in this car...

I like the poly mounts pretty well so far. Takes some getting used to, especially with both poly motor and trans mounts. Really transmits into the cabin now...idle kind of shakes the car a little, which is fine with me. I notice a lot more trans noise through the shifter as well. Still a little early to give an educated opinion on them, though...I only have a couple hundred miles on the new setup.

bonethugluv

iTrader: (10)

Sick build man. Alot of details and great pics. and didnt take you forever from start to finish.

How is the Frost Tune working so far?

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

It runs very, very well for a base tune. A little bit of bucking at low rpms and low speeds (parking lot, neighborhood, etc), but other than that it is really good. Once this clutch is broken in, we'll get it street tuned to perfection. Steve has helped me with this car before, when I lived in Alaska...he street tuned a D1SC Procharger setup for me via email using HPTuners, and it was perfect. I load his tune, take a 10 minute drive and log everything, send him the log, he sends me a new tune...it's really a good option for the price, and I trust him with the car. He definitely knows his stuff...

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

Thats the good thing about KY you dont need a front plate

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Awesome build thread sir !!!! Car sounds great @ 850 idle IMO

01FASTWS6

Beautiful. Great job!!

Firehawk896

iTrader: (6)

One more question for you, there will probably be more to come, but how did you get your balancer on?, Did you get an installer for it or hammer away, also where did you get a new crank bolt from?

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

I pulled it in with a longer bolt. I actually still had the bolt and huge washer from an ATI crank pinning kit, so I used it to pull the balancer all the way on. I had heated the balancer up in the oven, but honestly, I don't think it helped at all.

And for a crank bolt...Lashaway Motorsports actually threw one in for me due to a slight mishap in getting my clutch shipped out. Brand new ARP 12 point bolt.


I almost have the clutch broken in, so its almost time for tuning. For a base tune (which I got from Steve Williams ((Frost)), it runs really, really well. I still let it idle for about 10 minutes before driving it, and I've been logging some of the idle stuff with HPTuners, and it still is averaged 18mpg. With a real tune, I think I'll be really happy. Plus I can finally put the hammer down...

I am, however, ready to pitch this effing Magnaflow cat-back in the trash. Fitment on the damn thing is absolute garbage. Just when I get the tips all lined up and have everything straight, I go out and drive it around and by the time I get home, they are crooked again. I love the sound...great at idle, no drone, great cruising sound, but right now I'm ready to take the damn thing off and sell it.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Lord I just love the color of your car sir !!!! Ya know you just might need to
find a good chassis guy and pick your favorite muffler and have an exhaust
made. Up here in Wis. a guy named Ron Wesley @ ClocksOffRacing is such a
masterful tig welder(self taught as well) Known for his work on Dr. Ford's
08 pump gas drags champ T-bird, Jim Schmittinger's SB2 G.N. featured in
GMHT mag, and recently in RPM mag he set up Steve Morris' white wagon.
This freak(Ron) has tig welded stainless on his rusty 85 silverado parts
hauler......2funny.....I think the Magnaflow sound is killer and maybe you
could use some Corsa tips.....everything is so nice on that car I think it
deserves a custom exhaust

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

great write-up!!!

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Anytime you turn the threads in the crank, you run a big risk of damaging them. I actually bought a 3' length of stainless threaded rod (it's hard!) and cut about 8 inches and made a puller with a hard nut I bought at Ace and a bushing installer I had laying around. Worked fantastic. You could also use hard washers, etc. Let me know if you want a length of the rod...I can sell you what you need very reasonably.

The GM bolt is available from any dealer for about $4 if I recall. Use once and throw away. The ARP bolt is reusable...but about $30. But get your Wheaties out...that factory bolt is a grunt to get that 140 degree twist. You will absolutely have to lock the engine solid. Use the factory flywheel locking tool, or you can do like I did...I have a manual trans and I took a hard 5/16 stud, and slipped it into a hole in the outer edge of the flywheel. It fits perfect. Then, with the starter removed of course, slowly rotate the engine until the protruding stud locks against the block...and tighten away. You can also use this method on the other side of the block to unbolt the balancer bolt. One helluva lot cheaper...and probably better...than the factory flywheel holding tool.

Firehawk896

iTrader: (6)

I actually just take a thick tire rod, put it through one of the holes in the pulley that wedges to the k-member, works perfectly everytime, and I havn't had an issue with it.

brian_rs/ss

awesome write up. can't wait to start my build. i wont be pulling the block, but i'll be doing just about everything else. not looking forward to the motor mount install...

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

Thanks. Yeah, I'm really happy I was able to do those mounts with the engine out of the car. I was able to get the motor set down right on the mounts and everything bolted up on both sides in about 20 minutes...

Firehawk896

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to try and revive my bird today after I get a few things bolt up and all the fluids done, still gotta find a spot for my ground wire though........oh the excitement

spiro27

i hope my sound like yours when i put my eps cam in a little smaller than your cam 226-234. with tfc 215s. very nice car cant wait to see waht it make hp.

MillsMotorvation

Very nice work!