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Streetsweeper HT cam, thoughts?

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Old 02-25-2011, 10:16 AM
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Default Streetsweeper HT cam, thoughts?

Been doing quite a bit of research and it looks like the 228/232 streetsweeper ht is a great cam and probably what I'm gonna go with. What is everyones' thoughts on that? And I know pushrods, valve springs, and timing chain are necessary, should I get a ported oil pump and ls2 lifters while I'm at it? And any recommendations on specific parts?

About the car:
-stock ls1
-4.10 gears w/ an eaton posi
-M6
-Pacesetter LT headers with TSP true duals
-It's my daily but will see some track time in the future (obviously not near future though because I need a 9 inch lol) but that will be mainly road course time
Old 02-25-2011, 10:42 AM
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Am I gonna need some Katech rod bolts too being that I have the 98 ls1?
Old 02-25-2011, 02:07 PM
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Would I really need a new oil pump? I usually run about 40psi when hot and around 60 when cold with Mobil1 10w-30
Old 02-25-2011, 02:20 PM
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I'm pretty sure that cam was developed for the ls2 & ls2 parts in mind

what they recommend off there site for that cam

PAC Racing 1518 Beehive Valve Springs
FTI Seven Degree Chromemoly Retainers
FTI Hardened Seven Degree Valve Locks
Steel Shelled Viton Valve Seals
FTI Pro-Series Hardened Pushrods
Old 02-25-2011, 02:35 PM
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Ed has nice grinds and that cam works well on a 346.

As for the oil pump I would do it if the car has high miles since you are already there. Also consider 98's had the most trouble with the pressure spring sticking....

As for LS7 lifters you can't change them unless pulling the heads so.....
Old 02-25-2011, 02:43 PM
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I went from a 5X3 to 228/232 (110LSA) and love it. There is so much more power under the curve, and it still pulls all the way to 6600 easy. I havent put it on the dyno yet, just seems to stop pulling a little there but easily rev's to 6800.
Old 02-25-2011, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by redracer1
I'm pretty sure that cam was developed for the ls2 & ls2 parts in mind

what they recommend off there site for that cam

PAC Racing 1518 Beehive Valve Springs
FTI Seven Degree Chromemoly Retainers
FTI Hardened Seven Degree Valve Locks
Steel Shelled Viton Valve Seals
FTI Pro-Series Hardened Pushrods
That's their package but most people who do cam swaps just use new valve springs and pushrods..hmm..

Originally Posted by SOMbitch
Ed has nice grinds and that cam works well on a 346.

As for the oil pump I would do it if the car has high miles since you are already there. Also consider 98's had the most trouble with the pressure spring sticking....

As for LS7 lifters you can't change them unless pulling the heads so.....
Alright, then I'll go with the oil pump too as I was planning on. True..and I dont think I'm gonna be able to find heads when I do the swap so those will be afterwards..hold off on the lifters and do em then?

Originally Posted by Jenson
I went from a 5X3 to 228/232 (110LSA) and love it. There is so much more power under the curve, and it still pulls all the way to 6600 easy. I havent put it on the dyno yet, just seems to stop pulling a little there but easily rev's to 6800.
Nice! good to hear..cant wait for mine to go in!
Old 02-25-2011, 08:43 PM
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I have the bigger streetsweeper, I bet that cam is great also. Anything that comes from Ed is great. I would definetely do an oil pump. I went with a ported SLP LS6 pump, i think it was like $200, better than $5000 if the original crapped out.
Old 02-26-2011, 01:51 AM
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Yeah..I think I'm gonna do the oil pump then..Anyone have opiinions on or against the rod bolts since its a 98?
Old 02-26-2011, 07:24 AM
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Do the rod bolts for a peace of mind especially if seeing any track time. Second for sure do the oil pump. I am doing a similar grind cam and my car is a 2000 and am doing rod bolts as well.
Old 02-26-2011, 07:32 AM
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i dont know much about the difference of 98 bolts from the rest of the LS1 bolts but usually if you dont see over 6500 and see 6000 every once a month or so then you should be fine, when i go to the track, my 99 will see 6300 shift points like 10-15 times a day, no problems here.
Old 02-26-2011, 07:49 AM
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At 130k miles what is good to do is a compression and leakdown test. Based on that, one can decide if it is worth it to mod or rebuild.
A basic rebuild done properly will run ~ 2500>3000 $$.

Besides rod bolts, 97/98 have shaky bearings and less efficient oiling system.



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