Rod Bolts?
Do a lil more reading and you will see that some folks who swap rod bolts (even the best bolts) end up with an engine failure not too long after that upgrade. I would never just replace the rodbolts without having the rods torqued and checked by a machine shop, the new bolts are stronger true, however you change the clamp and load on the rod and can cause distortion, resulting in bearing failure. There are alot of guys who have done this with no problem, but then there are the ones who do have the problems, I wouldnt do it, Thats just my opinion, and I aint the only one on this side of the fence!!!
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
Do a lil more reading and you will see that some folks who swap rod bolts (even the best bolts) end up with an engine failure not too long after that upgrade. I would never just replace the rodbolts without having the rods torqued and checked by a machine shop, the new bolts are stronger true, however you change the clamp and load on the rod and can cause distortion, resulting in bearing failure. There are alot of guys who have done this with no problem, but then there are the ones who do have the problems, I wouldnt do it, Thats just my opinion, and I aint the only one on this side of the fence!!!
Why, because:
1- You never moved the caps.
2- Katech bolts are an exact copy of stock bolts but a higher tensile strength.(not true for ARP bolts and such)
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Verdad Gallardo So does everybody argree that these years are the worst, I have a 99 so I guess I should be concerned, I am not building a race car but its a H/C/I street car w/ 243's, LS6 intake, & 233/239 TSP cam
Stock LS1 rods are cracked rods. So if you change 1 bolt at a time (never both, and never remove cap) with Katech rods bolts, you will not need any rounding on them
Why, because:
1- You never moved the caps.
2- Katech bolts are an exact copy of stock bolts but a higher tensile strength.(not true for ARP bolts and such)
Why, because:
1- You never moved the caps.
2- Katech bolts are an exact copy of stock bolts but a higher tensile strength.(not true for ARP bolts and such)
i don't have any experience one way or another but i have heard of failures after installed new rod bolts. i have a 2000 and i am going to leave them alone. i know with the power i am pushing the rods and pistons aren't going to last forever. if it happens to be a rod bolt that goes first, so be it. i feel like i have as good of a chance with engine failure after changing them vs. leaving them along. just my .02.
I dont want to start another rod bolt pissing thread but op what rpm were you going to spin your motor to? GM built the ls6 with the same rod bolts as later ls1 and its stock rev limit is 6600 and is commonly raised to 6800 without issues so If you will be around the 6500 rpm range I think you'd be ok.
