thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Tune has timing at 26-28* and a/f was set using tailpipe wideband to 13:1. No misfires, compression on all cyl is 195-210. The hp peaks right under 6k and starts to slowly decline almost immediately

98 ls1 shortblock, 99 853 heads (stock)

Comp 230/224 (.573/.56x lift I think XE lobes) 111+3, ported FAST 90/90, Doug's 1 3/4" headers, true duals with dual cutouts 1 ft behind collectors (3" pipe from collectors to mufflers 2 1/4" over axle), powerbond ud pulley, Turtle Racing 4l60e Yank SS3600, 3.42 12 bolt

stock MAF, 850cfm K&N cone (car slows down if I take the filter off, I tried), 90* bend to TB, (I tried relocating the filter to exposed air under the bumper and picked up nothing)

no a/c

3.5" chromoly steel driveshaft with solid u joints, 56" long

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

That's exactly what I'm getting at. I would never order anything without talking to a professional. I do not want to spin higher than the current 6600RPM limit because I can not change rod bolts. Period.

I can not remove the oil pan in the car and pulling the engine pushes this out of budget realm entirely. And honestly I am not willing to change rod bolts without having everything rebalanced and resized. I know some people get away with it, but I have terrible luck and mine would be one of the failures.

PREDATOR-Z

Put your car on a serious diet.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I actually dont think it weighs much more then an F-body and certainly not more then a GTO.

PREDATOR-Z

For a fully loaded one, no. But every pound removed is a portion of a second faster.
Look at fastest cam only list and check their weight. More power is not only the way to go quicker. Proper launch (his 1.7 60' is not quick).
Problem is he doesn't want to do this, doesn't want to do that, IMO he is just approaching from the wrong angle.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

The new heads and cam will give you your satisfaction period.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

If your cammed, nearly full bolt on (no electric water pump) LS1 put down 345rwhp and trapped 110mph you would be satisfied and move on? It just doesn't seem normal to me and IMO suggests a poor setup. I was just hoping to get ideas on whether or not I could fix this within the limitations I have.

I know you know your stuff Predator-Z, you're one of the members here who I respect most and the main reason I tried this reverse split cam. It just doesn't seem to be working in my setup. In your opinion on that subject alone what do you think? Pretend we are talking about a full weight fbody with a 12 bolt, is 345rwhp/325rwtq SAE and 110mph (weather corrects to 112mph at 0DA) sufficient or indicative of mismatched parts or potential issues?

The car weighs ~3550# with 1/2 tank and without me in it.

I've pulled all A/C, no spare, no sound deadening, no washer tank, etc....there's nothing left to pull I can do without in a car meant to be driven besides switching to fiberglass hood/trunk down the road and some lighter suspension parts I will be getting to shortly.

I'm sorry if I sound stubborn but does it make sense to pull a 120,000 mile engine out of my daily driver to put in rod bolts? When the engine is out again for a rebuild or replacement it will get those treatments. It's physically impossible to do in the car...I can't even get the oil pan off.

Is a $700+ converter going to make my car any faster when I'm already babying it out of the hole on 325/50r15 drag radials? Track prep will get better and I can lower my 60ft without changing anything.

And the only other thing I've dismissed is flycutting pistons...I do not intend to go large enough on a cam to think that would be necessary. I'm not trying the "bigger is better" route, I'm suggesting my combination is poor and needs optimization.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

If your car has a corrected MPH of 112 with a race weight of 3,750, I would say that sounds pretty good for a cam only LS1.

If I were in your position and wanted to go faster, my next step would be some Texas Speed Stage 1 CNC Ported 243 heads. They are just a fantastic bargain for $1150 in my opinion. I would think you would pick up 2 to 3 tenths and 2 to 3 MPH with those.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

Like you have stated above you already took out most of what you could. So the only answer is more power. Go with the ls6 heads from texas speed and the cam of your choice. I will be doing this to my new car also. Changing over to a fiberglass front end would take alot of weight off the chevelle. Then you just need to put the power to the ground....

You can also sell your cam and heads on here to make some of your money back ftw.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Thanks guys.

I know it's annoying I can't just put drag suspension and gut the car, but you have to make sacrifices in order to serve 2 masters (street/handling vs strip).

The heads are getting ported and going on either way, the question was just how much it's worth to swap to a cam matched to the heads vs keeping what I have and just accepting the head gains.

usmonaro

Just read up. A stock evo x runs approx. 13.4-13.5 quarter mile @ 100-102mph. Run one from a dead stop and see what happens. Its not always in your best interest to run a boosted car from a roll. I had a 300zx automatic on 20psi that only ran 9.03@94mph. It didn't spool til around 40mph. My Quarter was 12.1@122mph. So remember that timeslips, horsepower, and racing from a roll are all different things.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

The cam matched to your heads will be worth it to give setup full potential. Is that worth it to you?

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

We did, it was brutal. He launched from 4500rpm and I still put a car on him by the time we crossed the intersection at a stoplight. By second gear it was 2.5-3 cars and I was still pulling hard.

I think the Mickeys stuck harder on the street than the track the day I ran.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The only way you could make an educated decision about whether on not to replace the camshaft would be if you could quantify how much horesepower difference there would be between your current cam and one you were considering to replace it with. So, the only people who could answer your question accurately would be somebody has has experience testing both grinds. As a distant second choice you could use some dyno simulation software like desktop dyno.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Look at the Cam Motion LS1 cams.....I'm running one and very pleased.

JayplaySS

iTrader: (15)

Pat G/Geoff EPS spec'd cam FTW

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Thanks again guys. I was just trying to get some rough ideas before I call anyone about spec'ing a cam so I waste less of their time and I am not only getting the opinion of someone who benefits from me spending the money.

For instance if a general consensus was that I would gain 5hp from a cam swap that is hardly worth the trouble of the swap and the $200+ price difference between selling mine and buying the new one. However if there is 15-20+hp difference it is much more worthwhile IMO.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

C33-719 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 232'/236', .595"/.595", 114'+4'; 2,400 to 6,400 RPM

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

You can get that much if you go bigger for sure.

There is also: Texas Speed 233/239 or Comp Cams 54-446-11 (232/234 .595/.598 112°). But, then the RPMs want to go up too.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Is that one of the cam motion cams? Something along those lines is exactly what I was thinking about when I started his thread.

I do not know a lot about cam specs though so it was just an educated guess and I was thinking similar durations but maybe a touch more lift since I am picking up some patriot golds with titanium retainers for a good deal and a tighter LSA. Of course speaking with an expert before I ordered.