Ls1 crank bolt removal
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 34
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From: Canada
Ls1 crank bolt removal OK, so my engine is on a stand and i need to get my crank bolt to change my cam. Anybody have some insight? ive been searching and cant come up with the answer. THanks.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Canada
wont i have to stop my crank with an impact? i have no flywheel! and yes i will need to get it out to take off the pulley and the timing cover.
Last edited by 87v8rx7; Mar 25, 2011 at 04:50 PM. Reason: mis worded
Heat up the bolt with a torch (they come from the factory with threadlocker on them) and break the bolt loose with a 1/2" impact gun. (turn bolt ccw).
Put a 3 jaw gear puller on the lands on the balancer (if your balancer is not like the old style with 2 threads tapped in the hub of the balancer). You will need something to put over the end of the cranks balancer bolt hole to keep the bolt of the gear puller from going into the tapped hole in the end of the crank. (not doing this will booger up the tapped threads in the end of your crank)
I use a impact on the bolt of the gear puller. Turn it CW.
If you have valvetrain and rods still installed it will be enough resistance that the impact will pull the balancer without spinning the engine over a bunch.
Put a 3 jaw gear puller on the lands on the balancer (if your balancer is not like the old style with 2 threads tapped in the hub of the balancer). You will need something to put over the end of the cranks balancer bolt hole to keep the bolt of the gear puller from going into the tapped hole in the end of the crank. (not doing this will booger up the tapped threads in the end of your crank)
I use a impact on the bolt of the gear puller. Turn it CW.
If you have valvetrain and rods still installed it will be enough resistance that the impact will pull the balancer without spinning the engine over a bunch.
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A 1/2" impact with 24 mm socket will get it done. I have mine on stand with no flex plate and it worked great. I rented a Chrysler harmonic balancer from Orielleys and pulled the balancer. Use long rod in kit to pull the balancer part of the way then an old socket as spacer against crank snout to pull the rest of the way off. Again with the 1/2" impact for the puller as well.
Poket's idea above is pure genius.
KB
Poket's idea above is pure genius.
KB
Ive done it on an engine stand with the flywheel off. I took a piece of 1/4" strap, punched 2 holes in it, bolted it in to where the flywheel was and locked it against the engine stand. Long breaker with a piece of pipe for a cheater and it came right out.
the only thing i would be worried about is snapping that idler pulley off. that MFer was TIGHT!
I just jammed a wrench between the engine stand and the flexplate, and used a breaker bar with a pipe on the end. Came right out.
*edit*
I also have the engine chained to a cherry picker so the engine didn't fall over.
*edit*
I also have the engine chained to a cherry picker so the engine didn't fall over.
Last edited by 46Coupe; Mar 31, 2011 at 08:03 AM.
this is exactly what i did on mine. worked great! just make sure you dont tip the whole stand over (I think I got close once....)
Used a good impact gun. Came right off, no issue. I've done it all sorts of motors on a engine stand. LT1's, LS1's, 5.0L's, V6's, and so on and so forth.
You can use a 3 toe puller with a appropriately sized socket to shim it out.
Reinstall; Get a threaded rod, washes, and nuts and use it to draw on the pulley. A little oil helps and you can do this on a stand. Just need someone to steady it and you may need to lock the FW. OR do it in the car. Too many engines have had threads ripped out or crank bolts snapped off doing it the other way....
You can use a 3 toe puller with a appropriately sized socket to shim it out.
Reinstall; Get a threaded rod, washes, and nuts and use it to draw on the pulley. A little oil helps and you can do this on a stand. Just need someone to steady it and you may need to lock the FW. OR do it in the car. Too many engines have had threads ripped out or crank bolts snapped off doing it the other way....
Originally Posted by 1A Dan
this is exactly what i did on mine. worked great! just make sure you dont tip the whole stand over (I think I got close once....)
As posted above Heat is the key, lightly heat head of bolt and just a tap with a impact it willcome right off. The orange locker compound on the backside of the bolt head is whats holding the bolt, heat breaks this bond, you dont have to go crazy with heat either, light propane torch works great.
Just put a couple of long bolts in the Flywheel holes in the crank.. then the long bolts will hit the stand and lock it in place for you to be able to crack off the crank bolt
had the same issue on mine.. I forgot to break it free before we got it up on the stand..
had the same issue on mine.. I forgot to break it free before we got it up on the stand..