618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Thank you, the tool has proven it self time and time again. Going on 6 years now. No chance in damaged crank threads, with a effortless install of the balancer.

RJB01camaross

What company sells the proper balancer install tool?

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Kent Moore tools is the only one I know of.
They deal with alot GM tooling.

CamanLS1

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead, but I figured its better to piggyback than start another thread with the same crap in it. I am doing my cam install in my '10 SS this weekend. I have a pulley install tool. Do I still need to do the first initial torque with the original bolt if I use an installer? Everything I have read says once the pulley is on, put the original bolt back in and torque it to 240ft/lb, then remove the bolt, and put your new bolt in and torque to 37ft/lb, then 140 degrees. I dont under stand why I would put the original bolt back in there ever, since by "stretch physics," its damaged. Can I just use the installer to get the balancer on, then just put the new bolt in and call it good?

bartmanC5

iTrader: (3)

Yes you should use the old bolt. The purpose is to ensure a fully-seated balancer before stretching the new TTY bolt. Its unclear if your installer tool did or didn't completely seat the balancer (mine started bending the washers). The first 37 lb-ft more certainly won't do it. Then the 140* from that point won't really be stretching the bolt as much as it should. For example if it's not seated just 0.5mm, that is 90* of the bolt revolution "wasted" in seating the pulley rather than stretching the bolt (bolt has 2mm thread pitch).

It's only 2 or 3 minutes' worth of extra work to do it right. To take a shortcut could mean going back and doing it all again when the balancer is walking off the crankshaft.

I used an ARP balancer bolt which gets installed at 240lb-ft, not a relative 140* angle after 37lb-ft. I still used the original bolt to ensure seating, removed it, and installed the ARP. Peace of mind following the field service manuals.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

ive always just heated the hub of the pulley for 20-30seconds with a small propane torch and it falls on the crank. no problems with the front seal. done this 3 times on my car. the tight fit on the crank pulls the heat out very fast, pulley locks on within a second. obviously not a ton of heat on the pulley or it will cook the seal.

CamanLS1

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't looking for a short cut, just a little uncomfortable putting a stretched bolt back in the crank, but if that's the way to do it, then that's what ill do! Thanks everyone!

got milk??

iTrader: (18)

Use something like this https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php...pictureid=5971 or risk this being the title of your next thread "Broken bolt in crank snout during pulley install"

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I suggest just getting the ARP bolt. No worries there.

CamanLS1

iTrader: (2)

I have that, please reread my question. Do I still torque the pulley with the OLD STOCK BOLT if I am using the pulley install tool??

I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

The only reason why people say to use the old bolt is because its a TTY bolt. The concensus is the new bolt will start stretching if the the pully is not all the way on and youre wrenching on it.

If your using an ARP bolt, thread the balancer all the way on, install the bolt and torque it! Done.

RezinTexas

here is the link to buy the proper tool

http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976

tom falco

NEVER HEAT ANYTHING OTHER THAN YOUR LUNCH
USE A GM INSTILLATION TOOL OR EQUIVALENT
OR USE A THREADED ROD OF PROPER PITCH AND SIZE WITH A TORRINGTON BEARING WITH HEAVY BACK UP WASHERS.

Never heat it
Never use the stock bolt it is to short and TTY
Both of these procedures can ruin a damper or strip the threads in the crank faster than you can SPIT!!
Proper tools are a must. Especially with the damper. Just me could be wrong!!

hotrodth

I and many others I know heated center section with propane torch. Slid right on all the way. Then installed new bolt. Never has any of us had a seal leak. They are good till like 6-800*. I'm sure some won't agree but I'm gonna stick w it cause it works better then any method listed above. I'm not talking about cherry red either just enough to expand it....slides on like butter.

got milk??

iTrader: (18)

I was alittle confused where the question was so I just threw that up there because I have seen/fixed to many damaged cranks by this "longer bolt" "old bolt" install type ****. Its a shadetree way of doing it if it works once or twice the installer got lucky.

To answer your question

-After the balancer is fully seated, torque the ARP bolt down per instructions and you will be good to go. If I recall its 240ftlbs and you will be hard pressed to get it that far. Most people just get it to 200 or 225 and call it good.

bartmanC5

iTrader: (3)

I think his question is at or just before "After the balancer is fully seated,". What exactly does that mean? I believe the use of the old bolt is to ensure the balancer is fully seated. The 240lb-ft Tq level is way more than I ever muscled the installer tool (and I still bent the washers). I have little faith the installer tool fully seated the pulley by itself. I used a loaner 250lb-ft Tq wrench from Autozone and achieved 240lb-ft for both bolts.

Here is my install process, following the GM manual. No lubrication on pulley or snout.

1. Balancer install tool (thread-rod or Kent Moore equivalent, NOT the old bolt) which has full crankshaft engagement to draw the pulley as far as you can. Ideally to within the Service Manual's range of fully seated (snout recessed 2.40-4.48mm). The old bolt does not ensure adequate crankshaft thread engagement, and is asking for trouble as everyone else has stated.

2. Once it's close, remove the installer tool then use the old bolt one last time to Tq to 240lb-ft. This ensures full pulley seating. Take this bolt out, and chuck it.

3. Install new bolt to spec, either the OEM TTY bolt or ARP. My step 2 is required for OEM, and may be optional for ARP. However I would rather spend/waste the extra 2 minutes to perform step 2 following the GM process when installing the ARP bolt.

I don't think seal leakage is the primary concern here. It's a balancer bolt that backs itself out. I didn't use heat as the installer tool did a fine job without.

tom falco

Just curious why does the factory not do it this way!!!!

First off the snout and damper should be well lubed before pulling on the damper with the GM tool or equivalent on the crank. This is not BRAIN SURGERY.
THEN
Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight. (We also recommend Loctite here if you are doing any High Performance Driving with this engine.

For an aftermarket ARP Bolt use Red Loctite and tighten to 250 ft/lbs.

This is how we do it and it works just NIFTY. Heating is a NO NO plain and simple. But if it works for you OK. This is not something that takes a lot of thought. It is not brain surgery by no means.

Ellesone

This is the best way . You dont need to weld anything but it helps

threaded rod a nut and a washer is all you really need.... you can use a pair of vise gripe to hold and turn the threaded rod if need be... a cap/acorn nut of the back of the threaded rod is used for screwing it in and out.. I also have the tool I bought a long time ago I lend out

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Wow, making this much more complicated than it has to be. The balancer will only go on so far until it contacts the oil pump.

I bet a beer, GM did not install a bolt, tighten it, loosen it, and toss it to install another bolt for final assembly....

You will know when the balancer is all the way on.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Whats the shipping charge for it??