DIY crank pulley installation tool?
I used one of these: https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php...pictureid=5971
One of the best tools ever made.
One of the best tools ever made.
Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead, but I figured its better to piggyback than start another thread with the same crap in it. I am doing my cam install in my '10 SS this weekend. I have a pulley install tool. Do I still need to do the first initial torque with the original bolt if I use an installer? Everything I have read says once the pulley is on, put the original bolt back in and torque it to 240ft/lb, then remove the bolt, and put your new bolt in and torque to 37ft/lb, then 140 degrees. I dont under stand why I would put the original bolt back in there ever, since by "stretch physics," its damaged. Can I just use the installer to get the balancer on, then just put the new bolt in and call it good?
Yes you should use the old bolt. The purpose is to ensure a fully-seated balancer before stretching the new TTY bolt. Its unclear if your installer tool did or didn't completely seat the balancer (mine started bending the washers). The first 37 lb-ft more certainly won't do it. Then the 140* from that point won't really be stretching the bolt as much as it should. For example if it's not seated just 0.5mm, that is 90* of the bolt revolution "wasted" in seating the pulley rather than stretching the bolt (bolt has 2mm thread pitch).
It's only 2 or 3 minutes' worth of extra work to do it right. To take a shortcut could mean going back and doing it all again when the balancer is walking off the crankshaft.
I used an ARP balancer bolt which gets installed at 240lb-ft, not a relative 140* angle after 37lb-ft. I still used the original bolt to ensure seating, removed it, and installed the ARP. Peace of mind following the field service manuals.
It's only 2 or 3 minutes' worth of extra work to do it right. To take a shortcut could mean going back and doing it all again when the balancer is walking off the crankshaft.
I used an ARP balancer bolt which gets installed at 240lb-ft, not a relative 140* angle after 37lb-ft. I still used the original bolt to ensure seating, removed it, and installed the ARP. Peace of mind following the field service manuals.
ive always just heated the hub of the pulley for 20-30seconds with a small propane torch and it falls on the crank. no problems with the front seal. done this 3 times on my car. the tight fit on the crank pulls the heat out very fast, pulley locks on within a second. obviously not a ton of heat on the pulley or it will cook the seal.
I wasn't looking for a short cut, just a little uncomfortable putting a stretched bolt back in the crank, but if that's the way to do it, then that's what ill do! Thanks everyone!
Use something like this https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php...pictureid=5971 or risk this being the title of your next thread "Broken bolt in crank snout during pulley install"
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Use something like this https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php...pictureid=5971 or risk this being the title of your next thread "Broken bolt in crank snout during pulley install"
I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?
I have that, please reread my question. Do I still torque the pulley with the OLD STOCK BOLT if I am using the pulley install tool??
I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?
I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?
If your using an ARP bolt, thread the balancer all the way on, install the bolt and torque it! Done.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 8
From: Katy, TX
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
NEVER HEAT ANYTHING OTHER THAN YOUR LUNCH
USE A GM INSTILLATION TOOL OR EQUIVALENT
OR USE A THREADED ROD OF PROPER PITCH AND SIZE WITH A TORRINGTON BEARING WITH HEAVY BACK UP WASHERS.
Never heat it
Never use the stock bolt it is to short and TTY
Both of these procedures can ruin a damper or strip the threads in the crank faster than you can SPIT!!
Proper tools are a must. Especially with the damper. Just me could be wrong!!
USE A GM INSTILLATION TOOL OR EQUIVALENT
OR USE A THREADED ROD OF PROPER PITCH AND SIZE WITH A TORRINGTON BEARING WITH HEAVY BACK UP WASHERS.
Never heat it
Never use the stock bolt it is to short and TTY
Both of these procedures can ruin a damper or strip the threads in the crank faster than you can SPIT!!
Proper tools are a must. Especially with the damper. Just me could be wrong!!
Last edited by tom falco; Jun 16, 2012 at 07:52 AM.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: jax, fl
I and many others I know heated center section with propane torch. Slid right on all the way. Then installed new bolt. Never has any of us had a seal leak. They are good till like 6-800*. I'm sure some won't agree but I'm gonna stick w it cause it works better then any method listed above. I'm not talking about cherry red either just enough to expand it....slides on like butter.
I have that, please reread my question. Do I still torque the pulley with the OLD STOCK BOLT if I am using the pulley install tool??
I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?
I have an ARP bolt. Do I still use the stock bolt to set the pulley, or can I just use the install tool to put the pulley on, and put the ARP bolt in, and torque to 230ft/lb and call it good, and never have to put the stretched bolt back in?
To answer your question
-After the balancer is fully seated, torque the ARP bolt down per instructions and you will be good to go. If I recall its 240ftlbs and you will be hard pressed to get it that far. Most people just get it to 200 or 225 and call it good.
I was alittle confused where the question was so I just threw that up there because I have seen/fixed to many damaged cranks by this "longer bolt" "old bolt" install type ****. Its a shadetree way of doing it if it works once or twice the installer got lucky.
To answer your question
-After the balancer is fully seated, torque the ARP bolt down per instructions and you will be good to go. If I recall its 240ftlbs and you will be hard pressed to get it that far. Most people just get it to 200 or 225 and call it good.
To answer your question
-After the balancer is fully seated, torque the ARP bolt down per instructions and you will be good to go. If I recall its 240ftlbs and you will be hard pressed to get it that far. Most people just get it to 200 or 225 and call it good.
Originally Posted by badazz81z28
thread the balancer all the way on,
Here is my install process, following the GM manual. No lubrication on pulley or snout.
1. Balancer install tool (thread-rod or Kent Moore equivalent, NOT the old bolt) which has full crankshaft engagement to draw the pulley as far as you can. Ideally to within the Service Manual's range of fully seated (snout recessed 2.40-4.48mm). The old bolt does not ensure adequate crankshaft thread engagement, and is asking for trouble as everyone else has stated.
2. Once it's close, remove the installer tool then use the old bolt one last time to Tq to 240lb-ft. This ensures full pulley seating. Take this bolt out, and chuck it.
3. Install new bolt to spec, either the OEM TTY bolt or ARP. My step 2 is required for OEM, and may be optional for ARP. However I would rather spend/waste the extra 2 minutes to perform step 2 following the GM process when installing the ARP bolt.
Originally Posted by hotrodth
I and many others I know heated center section with propane torch. Slid right on all the way. Then installed new bolt. Never has any of us had a seal leak.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
I and many others I know heated center section with propane torch. Slid right on all the way. Then installed new bolt. Never has any of us had a seal leak. They are good till like 6-800*. I'm sure some won't agree but I'm gonna stick w it cause it works better then any method listed above. I'm not talking about cherry red either just enough to expand it....slides on like butter.
Just curious why does the factory not do it this way!!!!
First off the snout and damper should be well lubed before pulling on the damper with the GM tool or equivalent on the crank. This is not BRAIN SURGERY.
THEN
Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight. (We also recommend Loctite here if you are doing any High Performance Driving with this engine.
For an aftermarket ARP Bolt use Red Loctite and tighten to 250 ft/lbs.
This is how we do it and it works just NIFTY. Heating is a NO NO plain and simple. But if it works for you OK. This is not something that takes a lot of thought. It is not brain surgery by no means.
Last edited by tom falco; Jun 16, 2012 at 11:30 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Buy the following parts from McMaster.com and make 2:
99055a239 - M16 x 2.0 300MM in length ($13.60)
92497A600 - Nuts M16 x 2.0 Pack of 10 ($8.14)
Cut the threaded rod in half, weld 1 nut to the end of each piece, install a 2nd nut and use some washers as well. I can add a pic of this tool this evening.
99055a239 - M16 x 2.0 300MM in length ($13.60)
92497A600 - Nuts M16 x 2.0 Pack of 10 ($8.14)
Cut the threaded rod in half, weld 1 nut to the end of each piece, install a 2nd nut and use some washers as well. I can add a pic of this tool this evening.
threaded rod a nut and a washer is all you really need.... you can use a pair of vise gripe to hold and turn the threaded rod if need be... a cap/acorn nut of the back of the threaded rod is used for screwing it in and out.. I also have the tool I bought a long time ago I lend out
Wow, making this much more complicated than it has to be. The balancer will only go on so far until it contacts the oil pump.
I bet a beer, GM did not install a bolt, tighten it, loosen it, and toss it to install another bolt for final assembly....
You will know when the balancer is all the way on.
I bet a beer, GM did not install a bolt, tighten it, loosen it, and toss it to install another bolt for final assembly....
You will know when the balancer is all the way on.