RezinTexas

don't know, I have not ordered it yet.

tom falco

I bet a beer, GM did not install a bolt, tighten it, loosen it, and toss it to install another bolt for final assembly....

Absolutely not. The factory does not do that.

What i posted is how a service procedure is DUN. This is not BRAIN SURGERY!!! I have installed hundreds of dampers on just about every car line made. Pull it on with the tool and replace the tool with a NEW BOLT. SIMPLE. When it seats you can feel it. SIMPLE ENOUGH SAID. OH YES NEVER HEAT THE DAM THING!!!!

bartmanC5

iTrader: (3)

I agree the factory didn't do it this way, as they probably have a special machine made for the purpose. But every GM dealer will do it this way when servicing the balancer. They follow the book, or are supposed to.

From the GM Service Manual, 2002 Helms Manual page 6-448.

With no mention of lubricants or threadlock. The installer tool they depict is the Kent-Moore J41665.

Step 1 is the 240lb-ft with the old bolt. Step 2 is to measure the snout depth, and repeat the J-Tool if not within spec. Step 3 is 37lb-ft on the new bolt, and Step 4 is 140 degrees past.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

I made my own today with a 4" 5/8 carrage bolt and a 16x95mm cut the head off both and welded them together.

wytry

iTrader: (6)

I shaved the corners of a 4x4 until it fit inside the pulley, gave it a few whacks with a small sledge, drove it on the rest of the way with an old bolt, then put the new one in with red loctite. I've done it this way several times, on two different motors, always successful, even if it isn't the GM procedure. I don't heat it either, and it can be done with the rad in the car.

bartmanC5

iTrader: (3)

Correct, not the GM procedure. Sledgehammers are not kind to bearings and bushings. The GM procedure is written by engineers for their dealers, which I'd rather follow than devising another approach.

This is the tool I picked up from a forum member here, and it was more than adequate. Two washers, nut, and all-thread. No whacking, heating, or other creativeness required.

tom falco

A torington bearing installed between the washers is a PLUS. Coating the snout with some oil is also a plus. Anyone building BB CHEVYS know first hand about tough damper instillation's. We line hone them for the proper interference fit. Several outside venders that make dampers require a snout that is coated with a light film of oil. Their is no negative issues with coating the snout with lube!!

tom falco

ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY THE WRONG WAY TO INSTALL A DAMPER BAR NONE. This is why people have engines that fail. I would highly recommend not listening to this procedure because it will destroy the DAMPER. It will most likely seperate and cause damage when the unit blows in to pieces. NEVER USE A HAMMER ON A DAMPER . This is how bad info is passed around car sites and people mess their stuff up. Absolutely the silliest thing i have ever read!!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Another WRONG way. It works and people have dont it, but again you are risking the threads survival because you are still twisting it. You need a way to hold the rod still so it doesnt continue to create a twisting force.

bartmanC5

iTrader: (3)

The 7" thread-rod is bottomed-out in the crank before starting the draw (ie. full crankshaft thread engagement) and both ends are beveled. Perhaps the picture makes it look shorter than it is [that's what she said].

Use adequate lube on the exposed threads and between washers. As you tighten the nut, the washers slide on each other (torrington would be better), and it draws the pulley on. The thread-rod is removed by finger, as it never did rotate or get tight. The only threads at risk are on the threadrod as the nut passes by.

I am in full agreement that solutions involving the stock bolt or even a 1" longer-than-stock bolt that turn and pull the balancer all the way on are a risk to the crankshaft threads. A stationary rod is not, which is what the Colorado Speed, Kent-Moore, and thread-rod tools all accomplish.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I used the balancer install tool and it's well worth the price. Took 30 seconds and done.

wytry

iTrader: (6)

I wasn't recommending this to anyone, simply stating my procedure that has worked several times 'successfully'.

Instructions from my Summit Racing Underdrive Pulley:

13. If you are not using an installation tool, quickly, utilizing a block of aluminum which fits into the recess of the damper
to protect the machined hub face, drive the Damper hub onto the crankshaft. DO NOT drive the damper onto the
crankshaft by the outer ring!

As long as you don't contact the outer ring, the pulley won't separate. Like I said, I drove it on in the center of the hub.

I know it's not the "engineer's" way, but like I said, it has worked for me every time. Also, I have had a few bad experiences with All Thread and tend to be leery toward using it.

The rest of the instructions, if anyone would like to view them:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...structions.pdf

tom falco

First off to do the job correctly the inside and outside dimnsions should be measured for proper interference fit. This is something we old timers that did loads of BB CHEVYS learned first hand very very fast. Hitting a damper even on the inside is a no no period case closed. The blows can and in most cases will destroy or could destroy the adhesion between the enertia ring and the hub. Once again never use the stock bolt it is to short anyway. You need a longer threaded rod that facilitates all the threads in the crank. As explained above by 81Z28. He clearly understands the necessity of utilizing all the crank snout threads. By turning the nuts in stead of the bolt in the threaded portion of the snout. He would have gone one better with a torrington bearing as he agrees. Anyone telling anyone to hit a damper with a HAMMER SHOULD BE STOCKING SHELVES IN WALL-MART not working on cars.

tom falco

AMEN BROTHER worth every penny in my view also. That is why they make it!!!

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Thank you..........this is the reason the tool has been developed and produced with great sucess over the last 7 years.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Took 30 seconds for me to make mine. And works the same way as the bought oneboth grade 8 bolts. Screws in tight to the crank then turn the nut and tighten the pulley

iroczracer07

iTrader: (1)

I like the way the tool from colorado speed is designed to work. Definitely have to pick one of those up

Krom

FWIW heat will help, and unless way way over done (think entire thing cherry red) can't hurt anything....

The balancer will run within a couple degrees of oil temp, or hotter depending on engine compartment air flow.

If in a pinch you can throw it in the oven at a very low 250, let it bake for a half hour and slide it on with a pair of gloves

I'm not arguing against using the right tools, (should be able to rent one at the corner store for next to nothing) But this thread is out of hand LOL its far from brain surgery to install one of these things and there are a lot of posts in here that are over the top.

The only things you don't want to do us use a bolt that is both turning in the crankshaft, and pulling on the damper, it can destroy the threads in the crank. Or use a hammer to hit the inertia ring

CamanLS1

iTrader: (2)

That was my thoughts exactly! I was having a hard time understanding why I need to use a bolt that is no longer good, to install a part that can only go on so far. Once it hits the timing gear, its not going on any farther. Thank you!

Thats the exact one I have, and from the same place.