Cam install.. OOHH.. Tell me.
#1
Cam install.. OOHH.. Tell me.
Well, i think i might do my FIRST cam install. Got some tax money and i talked to TSP and (hopefully) ill order it on Mon. Getting the 228/228 @ 112 LSA plus all the valvetrain and timing chain and oil pump. Now guys, im unemployed (sad to say) and i have some time so im going to attempt this myself. Was reading the LS1howto.com and it doesnt seem that hard. What do you guys who did it for the first time can tell me so i dont throw a wrench thrue the wall Thanks all..
#2
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The oil pump pick up tube bolt is a PITA. Use the TDC method instead of comp. Air. Use 1/4 " pipe instead of pen magnets. It just takes time.
Last edited by 98SS Blackattack; 02-20-2004 at 05:31 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by 98SS Blackattack
The oil pump pick up tube is a PITA. Use the TDC method instead of comp. Air. Use 1/4 " pipe instead of pen magnets. It just takes time.
#5
Originally Posted by 98SS Blackattack
PITA-Pain in the ***
The pipe is so the lifter dont fall
TDC is so the valves dont fall into the combustion chamber
The pipe is so the lifter dont fall
TDC is so the valves dont fall into the combustion chamber
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Originally Posted by waterbug1999
The pipe is so the lifter dont fall
TDC is so the valvesdont fall into the combustion chamber
TDC is so the valvesdont fall into the combustion chamber
You have to do both. You use the comp air/TDC method on each cylinder one at a time. Read the write up a few more times and it will become familiar
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Be careful. Keep parts clean. Don’t rush. Don’t use excessive force. If your engine has less than 50k miles, you can simplify the job by not replacing the timing chain. The risk that the timing chain will fail is probably smaller than the risks and potential problems involved with removing the oil pump.
#11
Originally Posted by Gary Z
Be careful. Keep parts clean. Don’t rush. Don’t use excessive force. If your engine has less than 50k miles, you can simplify the job by not replacing the timing chain. The risk that the timing chain will fail is probably smaller than the risks and potential problems involved with removing the oil pump.
Last edited by waterbug1999; 02-20-2004 at 06:39 PM.
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I used the compressed air method to change the springs, worked fine for me, but I was nervous cause I didn't want to lose air pressure and drop the valve in the cylinder. I was also told by my auto tech teacher to use the cloth line, stuff it in the cylinder (leaving some hanging out of the spark plug hole!) and compress the cylinder up and the cloth line will hold the valves because I heard that when you use the TDC method, the valves drop a tad bit, which mean you have to compress the spring even more to put the keeper on. I also used pen magnets to hold up the lifters, worked great too! Just make sure that you super glue the magnet part to the telescoping rod so the magnet doesn't slide off. Other then that, take your time, remember where things went (some people take pictures to help them out), and torque down EVERYTHING! Good luck man.
Robbie
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I use the air method.Takes me 1.5 hours to do all the springs.Not that hard and I pump 100psi into the cylinder.The Cam change is not very hard.I pull out the AC condensor completely to make it easier.My first Cam change took 6 hours.Now I can do the Cam in 3 hours taking my time (not the springs)
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Originally Posted by Hardtop00SS
I used the compressed air method to change the springs, worked fine for me, but I was nervous cause I didn't want to lose air pressure and drop the valve in the cylinder. I was also told by my auto tech teacher to use the cloth line, stuff it in the cylinder (leaving some hanging out of the spark plug hole!) and compress the cylinder up and the cloth line will hold the valves because I heard that when you use the TDC method, the valves drop a tad bit, which mean you have to compress the spring even more to put the keeper on. I also used pen magnets to hold up the lifters, worked great too! Just make sure that you super glue the magnet part to the telescoping rod so the magnet doesn't slide off. Other then that, take your time, remember where things went (some people take pictures to help them out), and torque down EVERYTHING! Good luck man.
Robbie
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#18
I was reading the TDC method. So, from what I understand about that method is you have to turn the crank for each cylinder to get the piston to the top so the valve wont drop.. Cool, understand that. But what order, and what order do you do it ( 1,3,5,7 on one turnd and 2,4,6,8 on the next)? And how can you tell if its up to that point to change the spring?
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I find the following to be great info, With a few cautions::
if you use TDC only the values will drop about 1/4 in which is a problem if installing strong springs so you may like to use the rope in the spark plus hole or use air also to hold the value complete up .. but be carfull becase the air can /will roll the piston down IF you don't lock the flywheel with something( I use both TDC and air )also becarfull it is easyer to get to the back spring IF you leave the spring next to rear off while you do rear >>>at this point it is possible to bump the next to last stim ( which you have no spring and retainer on ) IF YOU BUMP IT AND LOSE AIR PRESSURE AND ARE NOT AT TDC you will drop a valve.
Info will explain how to rotate crank to use TDC ,I do not think 1/4 in rod is large enough I would use 3/8 in ,just cut it 3-4 in longer than cam if installing double spring the spide type spring compresser tips were not long enough to hold the inside spring so we welded a little on tips to make them about 3/16 longer, try this for great info::: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...23&printable=y
you may make a flywheel tool it insert into the 2 " diag pop out plug under fywheel
if the picture does not look rite it should be 2 " wide all length of too,( 1/8 x 2 x 12 ) the notch in side is to lock it on side of hole
sorry this is long but hope it helps
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if you use TDC only the values will drop about 1/4 in which is a problem if installing strong springs so you may like to use the rope in the spark plus hole or use air also to hold the value complete up .. but be carfull becase the air can /will roll the piston down IF you don't lock the flywheel with something( I use both TDC and air )also becarfull it is easyer to get to the back spring IF you leave the spring next to rear off while you do rear >>>at this point it is possible to bump the next to last stim ( which you have no spring and retainer on ) IF YOU BUMP IT AND LOSE AIR PRESSURE AND ARE NOT AT TDC you will drop a valve.
Info will explain how to rotate crank to use TDC ,I do not think 1/4 in rod is large enough I would use 3/8 in ,just cut it 3-4 in longer than cam if installing double spring the spide type spring compresser tips were not long enough to hold the inside spring so we welded a little on tips to make them about 3/16 longer, try this for great info::: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...23&printable=y
you may make a flywheel tool it insert into the 2 " diag pop out plug under fywheel
if the picture does not look rite it should be 2 " wide all length of too,( 1/8 x 2 x 12 ) the notch in side is to lock it on side of hole
sorry this is long but hope it helps
/\/\/\/\/\/\
l...........l
l...........l
l...........l
>>........l
l...........l
l...........l
l...........l
l...........l
Last edited by SS SLP2; 02-20-2004 at 11:24 PM.
#20
Originally Posted by 98SS Blackattack
The oil pump pick up tube bolt is a PITA. Use the TDC method instead of comp. Air. Use 1/4 " pipe instead of pen magnets. It just takes time.