My original cam choice gone, Need a new one
04-18-2011, 12:33 PM
#21
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I have the GM HOT CAM and I get 15 mpg. How much of a difference can the cam make. If it is 1-3 mpg difference, I can get that much of a change on every fill-up. One tank will be 13mpg the next will be 16mpg. I dont change any thing, same route same driving habits. Dont worry about the mpg and just get the cam you really want.
04-18-2011, 01:12 PM
#23
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Actually, Cam Motion makes it in a couple different lifts. One is like .57x and another is around .64x. The LSA number you are asking about 112, 113, etc. will effect the cam's performance. Most notably the idle and powerband. Nothing I would get super caught up in honestly. Some cams just work, some cams have lots of cheerleaders, its up to you to decide which is which. I chose a Cam Motion grind because I like being different and it came very highly recommended. When a group cheerleads I back away quick. Guess its just not me to buy into that.
Hopes that helps ya out buddy.
Hopes that helps ya out buddy.
Good info like this helps a lot in decision making.
Nothing wrong with different, and yea I was never a big fan of the following because of name brand ****. Usually you get what you pay for, gotta be a little more careful now and do the research.
04-19-2011, 02:13 AM
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04-19-2011, 06:11 AM
#26
The "cheerleader" hype is also for a proven setup. The MS3 has tons of support because of the way it performs. Being different doesn't always mean better. I'm a custom cam person now since building up my LS6 and seeing what a properly matched combo does in comparison to an off-shelf combo from any brand.
04-19-2011, 08:11 AM
#29
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pcv pipping problem can cause the oil lose and the poor idle between 600-1300 prity common on the ls1 from what local car dealers have said here, i had a split pipe and had a slight rough idle, some they said have had a really bad rough idle, there's a new moded one which you guys would have there too.
And if you have oil build up cause of this in your intake manifold, it will be going into the intake of the engine and causing rough running.
Best thing do plenty of research, i did and purchased a 218/224 114 lsa cam with .53x of lift with 918 valve springs and have now decided to go bigger and possibly stroke the engine as not a DD any more, but even this is a great cam on the street for a DD with good street manners and fuel millage and if you don't want to mess around with stall convertors, etc then a good size or just go a 222/224 seems to be an older but popular choice on a 112 lsa.
But i'm not an expert, just from research, best thing i found was researching, talking to a number of performance shops (some helpful, some not) and going for drives in various cars around the specs you want and even the odd one that's bigger to compare.
And if you have oil build up cause of this in your intake manifold, it will be going into the intake of the engine and causing rough running.
Best thing do plenty of research, i did and purchased a 218/224 114 lsa cam with .53x of lift with 918 valve springs and have now decided to go bigger and possibly stroke the engine as not a DD any more, but even this is a great cam on the street for a DD with good street manners and fuel millage and if you don't want to mess around with stall convertors, etc then a good size or just go a 222/224 seems to be an older but popular choice on a 112 lsa.
But i'm not an expert, just from research, best thing i found was researching, talking to a number of performance shops (some helpful, some not) and going for drives in various cars around the specs you want and even the odd one that's bigger to compare.
Last edited by ausls1; 04-19-2011 at 08:18 AM.
04-19-2011, 08:21 AM
#30
There are definitely some fast MS3/MS4 cars out there but I've seen a Patriot 226 (which was from 2005 and considered to be garbage) run up and down an MS4 car that made more peak power. I like seeing these small and mid-size cam cars do work like that lol. Good luck buddy. 
04-19-2011, 12:00 PM
#33
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Thunder Racing "TR TRuTorq" Level 2 - 223/230 .609/.604 115 LSA 1800-6500 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Good bottom end and mid-range torque. Requires computer tuning. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
"TR TRuTorq" Level 4 - 227/234 .616/.614 115 LSA 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Good bottom end and mid-range torque. Requires computer tuning. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
or if u dont mind waiting 4+ weeks custom grind from EPS...
"TR TRuTorq" Level 4 - 227/234 .616/.614 115 LSA 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Good bottom end and mid-range torque. Requires computer tuning. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.
or if u dont mind waiting 4+ weeks custom grind from EPS...
but it seems that the 228r from texas speed or something along this line seems right for me since the lift is about .588 and duration isnt that crazy either, but my question now is if this cam would put me over 400rwhp after the cam and head swap(im doing milled 243s .030" with some pocket porting) remember im at 350rwhp now and im dynoing and tuning on the same dyno (dynojet, i like these more since they seem to be more consistant)
04-19-2011, 01:07 PM
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i dont think i want lift greater than .590 since i daily drive atleast 50 miles and i dont want to change my valve springs very often.
but it seems that the 228r from texas speed or something along this line seems right for me since the lift is about .588 and duration isnt that crazy either, but my question now is if this cam would put me over 400rwhp after the cam and head swap(im doing milled 243s .030" with some pocket porting) remember im at 350rwhp now and im dynoing and tuning on the same dyno (dynojet, i like these more since they seem to be more consistant)
but it seems that the 228r from texas speed or something along this line seems right for me since the lift is about .588 and duration isnt that crazy either, but my question now is if this cam would put me over 400rwhp after the cam and head swap(im doing milled 243s .030" with some pocket porting) remember im at 350rwhp now and im dynoing and tuning on the same dyno (dynojet, i like these more since they seem to be more consistant)
C33-712 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 228'/232', .578"/.578", 114'+4'; 2,200 to 6,200 RPM
And yes you will be over 400 at the wheels.
04-19-2011, 03:38 PM
#37
Even though getcha 01 posted the world's longest sentence that was a gigantic paragraph, I agree with part of his message. You have to wade through a tremendous amount of nonsense to find a few nuggets of decent cam advice on this board.
With ported and milled 243 heads it wouldn't be too difficult to make a nice custom cam on good lobes that idled well, had good dynamic compression for MPG and throttle response, and makes 400RWHP. And you probably wouldn't be using an intake lobe that was 228* @ .050".... not that lift at 0.050" has much to do with dynamic compression except insofar as it is locked to the lift @ .006" for a specific lobe.
To the OP... if you want a cam for your somewhat strict set of criteria then it might be best to just consult someone experienced in spec'ing a cam and letting them do it for you. Then don't worry about comparing specific cam specs to someone elses. Compare the timeslips.
With ported and milled 243 heads it wouldn't be too difficult to make a nice custom cam on good lobes that idled well, had good dynamic compression for MPG and throttle response, and makes 400RWHP. And you probably wouldn't be using an intake lobe that was 228* @ .050".... not that lift at 0.050" has much to do with dynamic compression except insofar as it is locked to the lift @ .006" for a specific lobe.
To the OP... if you want a cam for your somewhat strict set of criteria then it might be best to just consult someone experienced in spec'ing a cam and letting them do it for you. Then don't worry about comparing specific cam specs to someone elses. Compare the timeslips.
04-19-2011, 04:17 PM
#38
i dont think i want lift greater than .590 since i daily drive atleast 50 miles and i dont want to change my valve springs very often.
but it seems that the 228r from texas speed or something along this line seems right for me since the lift is about .588 and duration isnt that crazy either, but my question now is if this cam would put me over 400rwhp after the cam and head swap(im doing milled 243s .030" with some pocket porting) remember im at 350rwhp now and im dynoing and tuning on the same dyno (dynojet, i like these more since they seem to be more consistant)
but it seems that the 228r from texas speed or something along this line seems right for me since the lift is about .588 and duration isnt that crazy either, but my question now is if this cam would put me over 400rwhp after the cam and head swap(im doing milled 243s .030" with some pocket porting) remember im at 350rwhp now and im dynoing and tuning on the same dyno (dynojet, i like these more since they seem to be more consistant)
you should focus more on duration and the type of lobe. Any cam in the 220+
duration range mated to a good set of ported heads should get you 400whp.
a good set of heads w/ a small cam will always out perform a huge cam and
poor heads. The 228r is a proven cam, I still think a 226/230 .598 lsg lobe
from eps will make slightly more power, better driveability, and the lobe
design is more forgiving on springs, jmo. Geoff usually specs them with pac
1518 beehive springs. Cam motion has been around for years and they make
good stuff aswell... hell most sponsors on this site make good cams, you just
need to take the time and do your own research to figure out what is going
to work best for you!
04-19-2011, 04:23 PM
#39
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I constantly feel the need to remind most here that Geoff almost single handily designed all of Thunders proven shelf cams. They are in specs AND lobe design his brain children. Thats one of the reasons he is highly respected now. He is damn good at what he does. The good thing is what used to be his custom stuff is still around now as shelf cams. Just because a cam is "off the shelf" does not mean is inferior. I have ridden in/installed a bunch of cammed cars, including a Pat G cammed car, and my recommendations come from that experience. Also, Comp has a cam generator program, I tried it, and it gave me a recommendation of almost identical specs of my "shelf" cam that I had already purchased. 
04-19-2011, 04:25 PM
#40
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Very Good advice above. Its really the lobe that kills springs. Ive been doing alot of reading contemplating the needed spring change in my own LS1. In your case I would go with a nice spec'd eps cam and just let him know what you want to do. You can sacrifice a little power with more forgiving lobes to make the springs last, but its up to you what is more important. Springs every 30-35k miles and 375 rwhp or springs every 25k miles and 425+ hp