01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Lets talk about springs for a second, namely spring changes. Its no secret that almost every mod to make your car go faster will make your car eat more gas. With gas being more expensive these days its even more important. With that being said, it honestly cost money to go fast and to CONTINUE to go fast. Buying a set of springs every 20k is not a big deal in the grand scheme of things. You can get a set of PAC beehives for less then $200 new, and Lunati's Dual Golds to .660 for about $220 shipped. Hell lots of people run drag radials that last less then 20k, some less then 5k and think nothing about replacing them. Its sorta the price of admission. Food for thought.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

^^^^totally agree. The other thing to consider too is if you get a spring kit such as the lunati golds (what I am going with) once you have the retainers locators seals locks etc. then all you have to buy is replacement springs when the time comes.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Good point.....if you are changing the springs out yourself its really not a big deal. And actually you never know what could happen. You could wreck the car, sell it, have it stolen, buy something else for a DD, so many possibilities would make spring changes irrelevant.

SSCAMARO02LS1

Must have been real tired... missed it ^

GU5 Code - 3.23 gears

Great Thread guys, really good info. Made my choice !
C33-712 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 228'/232', .578"/.578", 114'+4'; 2,200 to 6,200 RPM

Now I just gotta figure out how BIG of a Stall to run. Definately going Circle D Specialties.
245mm Pro III / 1C or 2C ?
and bump a to 3.73 gear

Thanks to all ( especially the OP and ssred ) Have a good day.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

Ill be honest Ive had mine since august now driving back and forth every weekend and ive still only put about 7k miles on the thing in almost 9 months. Do the math and I'm spending 200 bucks every 2 and a half years. Ill get bored and put something bigger in the thing by then

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

I vote 3200 I have a buddy with one

s346k

iTrader: (4)

maybe i'm old fashioned, but i would asses the car's power by its trap speed. i would establish a goal based on the trap speed, as it is a direct representation of power. most bolt on cars will go 110-111 with a stock stall. a good aftermarket stall will increase the trap speed even further. unless you are looking to cause yourself problems, an aftermarket cam around 600 lift and 230 duration shouldn't be considered, imho, as i doubt one would last another 100k miles.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That cam is gonna do great. If you aren't going with milled heads or really wanna stay with beehives I'd run the .612 lift version of that cam. For stall I'd say 3600 minimum. You could scrape by with 3200, but I wouldn't. A 4k will shine in this combo, I'm sure Chris at Circle D will agree.

SSCAMARO02LS1

Dammit. I need to research / learn more. Guess I will look up some heads info now.
I DD my car @ 50 miles 4 to 5 days a week. Figured 4k was a little steep.

Where did Verde go ? Its not my Style, and I do apologize for the partial Hi-Jack, but **** since I am gaining some knowledge...
How bout some rear advice ? Shooting for 450-475 Horses, will a good 12-Bolt hold ?

Just thought of something. Oh yea, and at least I don't have 300 posts and just joined 1 or 2 months ago ! Saved me a post Verde - thanks.

Thanks again guys.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

A 10 bolt should hold in an auto car. I would highly recommend a complete overhaul though. They really benefit from fresh bearings to retighten everything back to new specs. You can stay with your stock heads, but if you did that I would run the .612 lift version of the cam with Lunati golds. I recommended the .58x lift for him because he said his heads are milled 30. That cuts down on PTV clearance. As for the stall, once you get above 40 it locks and its like driving on a stock converter. Gas mileage only suffers under about 40 mph. So if your 50 mile commute is freeway or above 40 mph you're good.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

in response to the underlined items: typically the rear doesn't need any attention unless it is having problems. i put about 250 1.6x 60' passes and 30k street miles on my stock rear (with 373s) 3 years ago and the same rear is in the car and driving around problem-free. it didn't get rebuilt and had 42k on it at the time of the gear swap. i did have a girdle, though, and NEVER let the car wheelhop.

cam LIFT has very little to do with ptv. the actual valve events based on the correlation between duration and lobe separation is what causes poor ptv.

how much mileage the car gets will be TOTALLY dependent on how well it is tuned, plain and simple. if he doesn't have access to a solid tuner, doing anything beyond boltons is simply asking for a disappointment.

op - where is this 475-500hp being measured? the wheels or the flywheel? 475hp at the flywheel is relatively easy to do without a bigass cam and a valvetrain that will require more attention than it is worth. 475 at the tire is a whole different ballgame in an a4 and will not promote any kind of longevity at all.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Uh I was talking to the op.

SSCAMARO02LS1

Uh, my apologies.

VerdeZ28

quick question, could i hit my mark of 400rwhp with the TR224?

keep in mind im sitting on 350rwhp as i am and am also swapping in Milled 243s to .030"

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

You should come very close to 400rwhp if not hit that mark. I have noticed on stock ls1 heads guys running the 224 cam with a M6 made roughly 380-39xish.. Guys with autos running the 224 cam made 370-38x range.