I developed rod knock on my way home this last friday during my commute home, and need some solid advice on what to look for when comparing short blocks. This is also a tight budget as this was not a planned expense me. To help with my tight budget, I want a short block that I can swap over my top end. I don't need a block for a track only car, as this is my daily driver for a few more years, and after this a good solid 2 years then it can become the fun car. I would like to get a short block built to take the abuse of daily grind with some strong street use, track days at the strip again will be tuff to justify with this new found debt until the funds for the beater can be saved up. I commute 46 miles round trip with 42 of them on I-95, 5 days a week.

The car is a 2004 GTO LS1 with a 4l60e 3600 stall & cooler, ms4 cam, built tfs 220 heads, ls1 intake, accufab 90tb, dynatac LT's with full exhuast, meling oil pump, udp, kn cai. I have 54k mi on the car, 9k on the cam, 8k on the lifters and heads. I don't know what info is helpful or a waste of your time to read.

My limited knowledge (I wasn't looking into engine options before) and searches suggest that I should look into the LQ9 short blocks, as these appear to be more affordable than an LS1 short block? Is this sound logic, or do you recommend another option? Seriously though guys, I need your input... I HAVE NO IDEA of what to look for, who to call, what parts are good for my needs and what to stay away from and I will need to find an assembled short block sooner than later. I am not trying to frustrate you all by my **** poor knowledge and that I drive my car daily. I will be towing the car to a shop on this coming week.

I already have a quote for a 408LQ9 that is; square deck block, align honed mains, honed cylinders with stress plate, competition balanced rotating assembly, polish crankshaft, blueprint race motor assembly (file rings, check fastners & install bearings).
Parts are the iron block, eagle forged crank & rods, diamond pistons flat top with -3cc valve relief, total seal plasma moly rings, king rod and piston bearings, durabond 1st design ls bearings. I gave them what parts I have and what the intended use and asked that it be budget minded for daily & street abuse and this was the result.

Price seems fair, but I fair to someone who dosen't know squat doesn't seem like a good course of action right now until some folks in the know chime in, but time is also important as its a daily driver car that is down. The sooner I can have the car back and not be riding my bike in the rain on I-95 would be perfect with me. I don't even know what this combo would be good for now or in the future years down the road either?

Thank you for reading my novel and your input,
Austin

 

Very similar to my situation. Went to a lQ9 shortblock retaining my head studs and main studs. 408 around 3500. Much better them the ls1 block. Just some added weight for better of everything else.

 

Anyone else?

 

Just my 2 cents but you could look for a used ls1 (01+) long block swap your cam into it and you shouldn't have to tune it if you go lq9 or 408 your probly going to have another tune. Someone correct me if im wrong.

 

Yes, you'll need another tune for LQ9 or 408

 

My fear factor is high with the ls1, strength and reliability at is current build for the demands of daily abuse. Your absolutely correct that the tune will need to be updated with the lq9 bottom end, but I'm looking at this from a long term perspective of at least a 2-3 years of the daily grind. The current or replacement ls1 with cam and top end isn't record setting power levels but, I've already had several grand in repair bills for this motor and keep thinking whats next?
A used or pulled engine is not a solid plan for me, and is a good idea on a budget & I am, but I also don't want to do this again knowing my budget can't.

I am hoping that either some folks post some leads or even vendors contact me and suggest what daily driven short block with my power level and mods would be available to quickly ship and it would simply drop in without a bunch of issues out side of a re-tune.

Butler - can you pm me info on your short block, its slightly less in price than the only quote I have and a couple bucks right now is a couple bucks.

I appreciate the help gentlemen.

 

If my Sig isn't showing to all - Mods are ms4 cam, trick flow as cast 220 heads with yt's, oil pump, lt's full exhaust, 90mm tb, Cai, udp, 3600 stall - 434/382

 

Grab a pull out lq9 6.0... you already have everything you need, it is a very straight forward swap.

1000-1300$ shipped for an extremely low mile pull out, less than 20k.

 

Car was towed to the shop today:
I have a couple options narrowed down on newly assembled short blocks... Thoughts on these? Remember cam is MS4 & Trick flow as cast 220 heads untouched with 64cc chambers and remaining parts from my current LS1 with other mods in sig.

LQ9 - 408 or 415? AES/TSP & Schwanke
LY6 - 375 Schwanke
LS3 - 375 Schwanke
Or am I missing something else to consider (Forged 383 LS1?)

What compression for a daily driver would you recommend? I have got answers form 9.4:1 - 11-1 and I don't fully understand what this truely impacts other than octane at the pump? (right?)

 

Ls3/l92 is out of it imo.. different heads, cam, intake, etc etc.. not to mention you need quite a bit more for that swap.
I would probably skip out on the ly6 also purely because of the money/performance ratio.

My personal choice would be a 408. You already have parts that would swap over and the parts would actually work quite well, it would be the cheapest by far out of all of those.
I wouldn't do a 383 either, just a little bit more and you have a 408.

No contest for an obvious choice in MY eyes.

 

The only thing I don't like the LQ9 is weight. However I do corners and you do straight line so it's different. From what I know LQ9 is stronger block and people mostly use it for FI. If you don't make it a 408 is won't give you much power gain. Why not do a LS2 short block? You can use everything back.

For compression ratio, you already have a big cam so you don't need to go over 11:1. Anywhere between 10-11:1 for N/A is good. Less than 10:1 most likely are for power adder, turbo, supercharge or nitrous. Too low CR (9.xx:1) for N/A will not do you any good.

 

Another practice patience question:
A vendor suggested the upgrade option from the Iron 6.2L LQ9 to the Aluminum LS3 block to work with my cam & top end... is this not accurate or most likely another aluminum block that has been punched out to a 6.2L???

 

I agree the 6.0 will be a solid upgrade.




where did you find these at?

 

Your cam and top end wont work with an ls3. Not to mention the added work and money on top to swap in an ls3. An lq9 is a direct swap, no need to less with a conversion box or anything.

Lq9 is a 6.0. I would rather save 1500-2000$ and extra work and go with an lq9 (or 408 if budget allows).

I believe I answered what you were getting at if I understood you correctly.
Lkq.. find someone that can get you the hook up, I wouldn't pay over 1400$ for one.

 

Lemons12 thank you, the LS3 is out.

Now, I'm just waiting for some more short block forged LQ9 6.0 - 408 prices...

 

I would write down a few sponsor numbers and call them directly. Tell them what your budget is along with your goals. They will tell you their recommendation and your choices for your goals and your budget.
Also keep your eyes peeled In the classifieds. people are always bailing out and parting cars out for misc reasons.. you can pick up new forged short blocks for severwl hundred less than new.

 

Okay, read this today and now I'm confused. This is pulled from an ebay discription from one of the sponsors.

"If you are installing the engine into an LS1-based vehicle, you will need the LS2 conversion package. It is an additional $300, and it will include the following parts:

New GM LS2-Specific Valley Cover
New GM LS2 Timing Cover with Cam Position Sensor
Plug-and-Play Knock Sensor and Cam Position Sensor Extension Harnesses for a Direct Fit Into your LS1 Vehicle!
LS2-Specific Timing Set
GM LS2-Specific Lifter Trays"


Do I need this with my top end to swap over on all lq9 short blocks? Please advise.

 

What were you looking at? You would need that along with a conversion box for the ls3/l92 swap.

Lq9 is the same as ls1. Put your heads cam intake and accessories etc from your ls1 on it and you're good to go.

 

My bad, its a L76/LS2 402. I need to stop for the day, I'm making this to smurfing hard.

 

Haha.. If you are looking you need to be looking for an lq9 or lq9 408 if that's what you are wanting. It's a pretty much direct swap, extremely simple. You can do it in a weekend easy.