Hydrolocked my motor...what are my options?
06-01-2011 | 09:58 AM
#21
I guess i'll play devils advocate here on the busted rod debate, A buddy of mine's car started making some terrible noises and he brought it to me when i put a borescope in the spark plug hole of number 7 and turned the motor over by hand the piston didn't move
:WTF:
after pulling the motor apart we found the rod had snapped right at the big end and was just kinda slinging around the crank while the piston and the rest of the C shaped rod were jammed in the cylinder bore
It may be weird but it's possible lol
:WTF:
after pulling the motor apart we found the rod had snapped right at the big end and was just kinda slinging around the crank while the piston and the rest of the C shaped rod were jammed in the cylinder bore
It may be weird but it's possible lol
06-01-2011 | 04:32 PM
#22
if the motor still starts, then it is not a broken rod, as that would have punched a hole in your oil pan, most likly it is a bent rod, as you can not compress water and that in case will bend the weakest point, the rod.
for removing the water, best bet is pulling the heads. there is no getting around it really, looks like with a knock like that you are gonna have to pull the heads. it is not that hard pulling the heads, just be sure to label everything and put it back right. check out my build page as i labled all my stuff an just did a heads and cam swap. also if your heads are damaged, a lifter or a the cam, then i have some spare stuff, would be willing to go real cheap on them for a guy in need
the coolant has additives to be non corrosive, so leaving some in there will actually help if form drying up and forming mold, you will be fine
for the labeling thing, pictures are your best bet, and get a 2 inch fat rool of blue tape, take 1"x3" pieces of tape, fold it in half over the wire near the connector and place the 2 sticky ends together, then label it. easy day.
i hope u just bent a valve or something and not hurt the short block, if that is the case, new set of heads and you are golden!!!!!
good luck with your tear-down, but really simple tools, lots of patience, a wife that will put up with all your yelling and swearing, and it will get done.
for removing the water, best bet is pulling the heads. there is no getting around it really, looks like with a knock like that you are gonna have to pull the heads. it is not that hard pulling the heads, just be sure to label everything and put it back right. check out my build page as i labled all my stuff an just did a heads and cam swap. also if your heads are damaged, a lifter or a the cam, then i have some spare stuff, would be willing to go real cheap on them for a guy in need
the coolant has additives to be non corrosive, so leaving some in there will actually help if form drying up and forming mold, you will be fine
for the labeling thing, pictures are your best bet, and get a 2 inch fat rool of blue tape, take 1"x3" pieces of tape, fold it in half over the wire near the connector and place the 2 sticky ends together, then label it. easy day.
i hope u just bent a valve or something and not hurt the short block, if that is the case, new set of heads and you are golden!!!!!
good luck with your tear-down, but really simple tools, lots of patience, a wife that will put up with all your yelling and swearing, and it will get done.
06-01-2011 | 06:00 PM
#23
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From: Helendale, Ca (SilverLakes)
Bad luck! That must have been a VERY deep puddle. Did the water come up over the hood when you went through it? Don't see how water got into motor as my TB is approx 30" above the ground. Good luck.
06-01-2011 | 10:12 PM
#24
Thread Starter
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Thank you so much for the replies everyone, it really helps. I've learned so much from this site
Trans am7935, your build thread is very helpful, thanks for that. I will keep everyone posted on what I find. I was going to drain the oil today but I was sent the wrong jack/stand set. Instead of a low profile aluminum racing jack that I got on sale, they sent me a regular shitty one that won't even clear the air dam. So I have to deal with returning that and trying to get the correct one.
But I will get to work on removing the heads, definitely take lots of pictures and label things. I think if any water was in the cylinders it is gone now (other than maybe the cylinder with a spun bearing/bent rod). It has been started up a few times since it has happened. Once to move it out of the intersection into the parking lot (saw white smoke coming out the tail pipes which I'm assuming was steam), once for the shop it was at to listen to the sound, and once to get it moved all the way into my garage (driveway is on a slight incline so we couldn't push it into my garage).
Last edited by ncfastls1; 06-01-2011 at 11:28 PM.
